The dinos that never die!

[xshmoox]

Didn’t hurt any of my corals or fish

 

[Chip]

Didn’t hurt any of my corals or fish

What was your dosing ratio?

 

[blitzkragz]

I managed to beat a giant outbreak of dinos over the course of a couple weeks with the following:

Dose Loudwolf trisodium phosphate and keep po4 at .1 or above (testing with Hanna ULM)

Dose Loudwolf sodium nitrate to keep nitrates at 15 or above (testing with Nyos nitrate kit)

Dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gal just before bed.

Dose 1ml of microbacter7 per 10 gal in the morning.

Good luck!

 

[Chip]

I managed to beat a giant outbreak of dinos over the course of a couple weeks with the following:

Dose Loudwolf trisodium phosphate and keep po4 at .1 or above (testing with Hanna ULM)

Dose Loudwolf sodium nitrate to keep nitrates at 15 or above (testing with Nyos nitrate kit)

Dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gal just before bed.

Dose 1ml of microbacter7 per 10 gal in the morning.

Good luck!

I have been at 25ppm of no3 and .1 no4 for over a year now. I've also done hydrogen peroxide in the morning and at night double dose. With no luck.

 

[xshmoox]

What was your dosing ratio?

It’s been a while and I don’t remember what thread I found it in but I believe the Max recommended was 1ml/10gal twice a day. I did half the amount for my volume of 150 gallons the max I did was 7.5ml 2x a day. I would turn off your return pump and stir up as much as you can to get it into the water column then dose directly in the tank. Then after about 5-10min turn pump back on. Polyps will retract when you dose but they would usually return to normal after about an hour usually.

 

[Tuffloud1]

I have been at 25ppm of no3 and .1 no4 for over a year now. I've also done hydrogen peroxide in the morning and at night double dose. With no luck.

Did you try stirring up as much of the dinos in the sand and scrubbing/blowing rocks and walls off to get the dinos in the water column so they can pass through the UV sterilizer? Seems like doing this constantly would be effective provided you have the right amount of UV hitting the dinos.

I don’t understand the difference between putting the sterilizer on a closed loop in the tank or plumbing the sterilizer on your return line. I know it is recommended all over but I really don’t understand the logic. It’s all the same water going through the unit being exposed to UV light. What magical thing happens when the sump is bypassed?

 

[Chip]

2 years later still have them. Running uv in the dark for months has done nothing. And yes they ran in the main tank. Its just about killed all my fish now, they keep eating them. Nothing works. So sick of this.

 

[Tuffloud1]

2 years later still have them. Running uv in the dark for months has done nothing. And yes they ran in the main tank. Its just about killed all my fish now, they keep eating them. Nothing works. So sick of this.

Did you confirm with a microscope what kind you have?

 

[chadfish]

My Dino story.
Been the hobby for over 28 years. Never seen anything like it.
After losing all of my SPS in my 600 gallon reef tank.
Ostreopsis I believe is my problem. I have tried all the regiments I could read. I also tried all the bacterias, UV sterilizer, hydrogen peroxide, bubble scrubbing, Dino X, raising the temperature to 82f, phytoplankton, Dr Tim's regiment this website's regiment, 3 month black outs. And of course raise nitrates 25ppm and phosphates .1ppm Ect. (Silicates was a problem) my 7 stage RO system would not remove the .25 ppm of silicates out of my rodi system. Even running through 1 cation and 1 anion and 1 mix bed. Go to figure out that silicates do not register on a TDS meter. I can turn the light off for 5 days they seem to disappear but a week later with the lights on they come back every time. This has been going on for over a year.
https://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/98301

Have you tried manual filtration at 20microns? The nominal size of Ostreopsis is about that. I was able to knock them way back with a combination of UV and 20micron polishing filter with lights out for 24-48 hours and then live phytoplankton after turning on the light. I went back to turning the lights on every day and ran the UV and filter at night.

 

[Tuffloud1]

Have you tried manual filtration at 20microns? The nominal size of Ostreopsis is about that. I was able to knock them way back with a combination of UV and 20micron polishing filter with lights out for 24-48 hours and then live phytoplankton after turning on the light. I went back to turning the lights on every day and ran the UV and filter at night.

What type of filter method did you use?

 

[chadfish]

Did you try stirring up as much of the dinos in the sand and scrubbing/blowing rocks and walls off to get the dinos in the water column so they can pass through the UV sterilizer? Seems like doing this constantly would be effective provided you have the right amount of UV hitting the dinos.

I don’t understand the difference between putting the sterilizer on a closed loop in the tank or plumbing the sterilizer on your return line. I know it is recommended all over but I really don’t understand the logic. It’s all the same water going through the unit being exposed to UV light. What magical thing happens when the sump is bypassed?

Technically, there is no guarantee that all the particles the water will make it to the sump, that’s just the nature of the overflow setup.

 

[chadfish]

What type of filter method did you use?

You can use a canister filter, or one of those in-tank polishing filters. I used one like this:

Marineland® Polishing Internal Filter | fish Filters | PetSmart

Marineland® Polishing Internal Filter at PetSmart. Shop all fish filters online

www.petsmart.com

But o would have preferred a canister type

 

[Tuffloud1]

Technically, there is no guarantee that all the particles the water will make it to the sump, that’s just the nature of the overflow setup.

Exactly. This is the same as a closed loop though - the intake of the closed loop is the same as the overflow - no guarantee that all the particles make it to the inlet.

 

[RMS18]

I feel your pain. My longest run was just about a year. Lost lots of coral, they were growing on fish's fins, it was rough. I used to fear them so much but after I beat them I learned how, and I caused them again and beat them within weeks once I figured out the secret sauce. End of the day I stopped trying experiments and suggestions from posts. I focused on the basics of reef keeping. After 5 weeks of doing so they started to clear and after a couple more I was free. Are they still in the system, I'm sure they are but everything is in balance like it should be.

 

[Tuffloud1]

I feel your pain. My longest run was just about a year. Lost lots of coral, they were growing on fish's fins, it was rough. I used to fear them so much but after I beat them I learned how, and I caused them again and beat them within weeks once I figured out the secret sauce. End of the day I stopped trying experiments and suggestions from posts. I focused on the basics of reef keeping. After 5 weeks of doing so they started to clear and after a couple more I was free. Are they still in the system, I'm sure they are but everything is in balance like it should be.

What’s the secret sauce?

 

[Cory]

If they are ostreopsis a uv sterilizer would beat them especially 150 watts worth. On my 150ish gallons i have a 90 watt ho lifegard, the return pump runs through it about 900-1100 gph. My tanks bare bottom. They were gone in 3 days. I did id them though. Id suggest removing your sand if you haven't already and increase your uvs flow. If that doesnt work verify the bulb is working. Still not working? Then you dont got ostreopsis. What skimmer you got?

 

[RMS18]

What’s the secret sauce?

For me it was focusing on stability. I had two kinds of dinos, amphidinium and ostreopsis. I stopped with all the bacterias, changing of lights, ph chase, temp chase, blackouts, silicate dosing, and everything else that mentioned. I didn't get into this situation by not dosing / doing any of the above. I knew the tank needed to just do it's thing. I did stop aminos, reef roids. UV was a big help with ostreopsis when mounted in the tank for input and output. I did turn all lights off for 2 days while running the uv so all the ostreopsis would enter the water. After that period lights went back on normal schedule and ostreopsis was gone. Then I continued with weekly w/c. I did not vacuum the sand, I would only stir the sand before the w/c. I wanted the good stuff that was left in the sand to continue to grow. I made sure no3 was up 10-15ppm, and po4 .1-.15. alk, cal and mag to be super stable. Heavy in and heavy out. As weeks went on the brown started to turn red. Cyano was settling in, until dinos were no longer visible to the eye. Cyano then took over, and yet again I left the system alone. All I did for cyano was brought down no3 to 5-8 and po4 .05-.07. after a few more weeks sand was white. My secret sauce is finding the cause that brought in dinos and go back to stability and give the tank time, lots of time. IMO it takes 2-3x longer to get the system back in check then how long it took to knock it off track. I was very close to leaving the hobby, close like I had a full item list ready to be posted for sale.. so I know the feeling well.

 

[Tuffloud1]

For me it was focusing on stability. I had two kinds of dinos, amphidinium and ostreopsis. I stopped with all the bacterias, changing of lights, ph chase, temp chase, blackouts, silicate dosing, and everything else that mentioned. I didn't get into this situation by not dosing / doing any of the above. I knew the tank needed to just do it's thing. I did stop aminos, reef roids. UV was a big help with ostreopsis when mounted in the tank for input and output. I did turn all lights off for 2 days while running the uv so all the ostreopsis would enter the water. After that period lights went back on normal schedule and ostreopsis was gone. Then I continued with weekly w/c. I did not vacuum the sand, I would only stir the sand before the w/c. I wanted the good stuff that was left in the sand to continue to grow. I made sure no3 was up 10-15ppm, and po4 .1-.15. alk, cal and mag to be super stable. Heavy in and heavy out. As weeks went on the brown started to turn red. Cyano was settling in, until dinos were no longer visible to the eye. Cyano then took over, and yet again I left the system alone. All I did for cyano was brought down no3 to 5-8 and po4 .05-.07. after a few more weeks sand was white. My secret sauce is finding the cause that brought in dinos and go back to stability and give the tank time, lots of time. IMO it takes 2-3x longer to get the system back in check then how long it took to knock it off track. I was very close to leaving the hobby, close like I had a full item list ready to be posted for sale.. so I know the feeling well.

Awesome, thanks for sharing your experience. I have Coolia and Prorocentrum. Just installed a 90 watt UV on my 300 gallon system. I’m going to keep everything stable, stir the sand bed and blow off rocks frequently to allow the UV to do it’s thing.

 

[RMS18]

Awesome, thanks for sharing your experience. I have Coolia and Prorocentrum. Just installed a 90 watt UV on my 300 gallon system. I’m going to keep everything stable, stir the sand bed and blow off rocks frequently to allow the UV to do it’s thing.

That's it! Time and stability within all parameters.

 

[Tuffloud1]

That's it! Time and stability within all parameters.

Forgot to ask. Did you adjust your photo period at all?