The Number One reason an acrylic aquarium crazes. And it does not come in a spray bottle.

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WINDEX BOTTLE.jpeg
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What is crazing?


Crazing is the formation of thousands of micro cracks in acrylic. These cracks can appear suddenly or over time and can be on the surface (both outside and inside the tank) as well as in the acrylic itself. Often the stand pat answer given as that the hapless hobbyist used the dreaded Windex cleaner and this caused a chemical reaction. While this MAY be true in instances of repeated multiple times per day use, the far more common cause is severe and sudden thermo stress of the acrylic.

A good analogy is when you pour very hot or very cold water into a thick glass container. The sudden temperature change causes the glass to expand or contract rapidly at the surface while the core stays cool. This stress at the molecular level causes the glass to shatter. The same thing happens to acrylic.

Where does this sudden temperature change come from you ask.

Two primary sources. The first is the heating strip. Most commercial heating strips have a very narrow heat zone. Trying to heat acrylic to form a bend using these types of heaters will cause the formation of those micro fissures. They are most often invisible to the eye. But once crazing begins, IT WILL NOT STOP. It may be an all of a sudden (over a few days in aquarium time) or gradual. But it will continue from one edge to the other.

The second cause of crazing is flame polishing of the seams. Again, just like the example above, severe molecular level stresses cause the micro fissures resulting in crazing.

Also the type of acrylic can be a contributing factor but not the primary cause. Cell cast acrylic is less susceptible than the continuous cast. But this is a contributory factor, not the primary.

How to prevent crazing

Use proper heating and forming equipment. This is hard to do. Our heating and forming equipment is custom manufactured and not readily available. If fabricators cannot form bends without causing stress fractures, then simply stick with square corner fabs.

Do not flame polish. Enough said.



Another cause of crazing is the use of the wrong saw blade while cutting (AND DRILLING) sheets to size. Be sure to use blades intended for acrylic.
 

albano

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Good info…I have a custom made 120g Tenecor tank that I purchased in approx 1994… although I now use it as a holding tank, and it’s been drilled and reconfigured a few times, it can still look like new.
As I’ve said many times, I don’t want a glass tank for free!
 

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I have a custom acrylic AIO and the person who built it screwed the whole thing up. I was young and stupid and should never have accepted the tank. I had cracks show up only a few months after setting up my new tank. Now all corners have these cracks. Sorry to say but my next tank will be a glass thank.
 

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Tenecor Aquariums

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I have a custom acrylic AIO and the person who built it screwed the whole thing up. I was young and stupid and should never have accepted the tank. I had cracks show up only a few months after setting up my new tank. Now all corners have these cracks. Sorry to say but my next tank will be a glass thank.
Sorry to hear this. Acrylic aquariums are far superior to glass tanks in many respects. Building them right is not very easy.
 

Big Smelly fish

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Sorry to hear this. Acrylic aquariums are far superior to glass tanks in many respects. Building them right is not very easy.
I agree. My display tank is now 29 years old and still in great shape. I only clean with a micro damp rag and never a cleaner. It has some slight crazing, nothing serious. I also hsd a 240 Tenecor17 year old tank before I sold to a friend. I don’t think I would trust a 20 plus year old glass tank. I’m sure there are some still going but probably not many.
 
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I agree. My display tank is now 29 years old and still in great shape. I only clean with a micro damp rag and never a cleaner. It has some slight crazing, nothing serious. I also hsd a 240 Tenecor17 year old tank before I sold to a friend. I don’t think I would trust a 20 plus year old glass tank. I’m sure there are some still going but probably not many.
Love your R2R name!
 

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I started with an acrylic 55 gal Tenecor, in 1995, that was previously used. First thing I did, was remove some scratches with a plastic composite and a buffer, easy, like so many suggest. This heats it, and can cause crazing as well. Around 1998, (3 years later), the front had an apparent bulge, and crazing was visible in all edges. Due to the relentless growth and scraping of coralline algae, the scratches were worse than when I started it. I had to replace that tank with a custom glass tank. Never again have I gone with acrylic.
Respect to Acrylic tank manufacturers and those that like acrylic aquariums, just dealing with the coralline issue alone turns me away. Cant understand how anyone deals with corraline without causing scratches with an acrylic tank. What is the method, and how careful do you have to be? Clarity and clean strong joints without silicone are the only benefits IMO. Star fire glass is just as clear. Custom Acrylic sumps and accessories, I make them, and here I find a great advantage over glass ones.
 

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I use a plastic scraper or credit card and remove coralline algae without a problem. I don’t let it build up to begin with.
when I was doing tank maintenance I had customers that would and it was thick and I could still get it off and not scratch the tank.
 
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I started with an acrylic 55 gal Tenecor, in 1995, that was previously used. First thing I did, was remove some scratches with a plastic composite and a buffer, easy, like so many suggest. This heats it, and can cause crazing as well. Around 1998, (3 years later), the front had an apparent bulge, and crazing was visible in all edges. Due to the relentless growth and scraping of coralline algae, the scratches were worse than when I started it. I had to replace that tank with a custom glass tank. Never again have I gone with acrylic.
Respect to Acrylic tank manufacturers and those that like acrylic aquariums, just dealing with the coralline issue alone turns me away. Cant understand how anyone deals with corraline without causing scratches with an acrylic tank. What is the method, and how careful do you have to be? Clarity and clean strong joints without silicone are the only benefits IMO. Star fire glass is just as clear. Custom Acrylic sumps and accessories, I make them, and here I find a great advantage over glass ones.
Not to debate the glass v acrylic here but in the larger sizes, there are no other options than acrylic. "Larger" for us is 300 and up. Every single public aquarium uses acrylic. Glass just can't do the job.

Clarity and refraction are two additional acrylic advantages. Acrylic is more clear than any glass, including low iron.

Thermal insulation is another acrylic advantage.

Weight is another. Attached is are some shots of an in-process "smaller" 374 gallon tank. The walls, bottom and top all are made from 1/2". Notice the two glazier's cups. Two people move this smaller tank around. The glass version would be a worker's comp nightmare and chiropractor's dream.

There is an upper limit to glass and the popular Chinese tanks are pushing it. That's why you seldom if ever see them higher than 30 inches. When you do, they are almost always framed and extremely heavy. (Did you know that one Chinese factory produces all of the tanks for several well known glass brands? That's another story.)

I have never seen a glass tank larger than 500 gallons without a frame. Prove me wrong.

Then there is the issue of safety. There is a thread on another forum of a buyer's concern of a ten foot rimless glass aquarium bowing out. While the glass may or may not fail, the silicone joints eventually will give out. 100% certainty given it is a frameless structure. Not so with acrylic.

Finally, the misconception of acrylic cost being higher than glass, Again, not true. All day we come in below the cost of glass on the larger sizes and about the same on the smaller (100-300 gallon) sizes.

BTW, the seams on the tank below are flawless. And they have yet to be buffed and polished. This is their raw state.
Tenecor 1.jpg


Tenecor 2.jpg


Tenecor 3.jpg


Tenecor 4.jpg
 
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Big Smelly fish

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There will alway be a debate when it comes to glass versus acrylic. I’m a total fan of acrylic for so many reason mentioned by Tenecor. I have a friend in Wichita who own a local salt water store and ever tank in his store are acrylic , maybe a few glass. All the tanks are over 20 years old and still look great.
 

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Sorry to hear this. Acrylic aquariums are far superior to glass tanks in many respects. Building them right is not very easy.
Yea sorry to say with the issues I have with the tank I don’t think I can financially replace it so more than likely do what I can and get out of the hobby all together. The custom tank was probably my biggest mistake. I never should have listened to the LFS and done my research. Live and you learn right.
 

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WINDEX BOTTLE.jpeg
I'm Innocent!!



What is crazing?

Crazing is the formation of thousands of micro cracks in acrylic. These cracks can appear suddenly or over time and can be on the surface (both outside and inside the tank) as well as in the acrylic itself. Often the stand pat answer given as that the hapless hobbyist used the dreaded Windex cleaner and this caused a chemical reaction. While this MAY be true in instances of repeated multiple times per day use, the far more common cause is severe and sudden thermo stress of the acrylic.

A good analogy is when you pour very hot or very cold water into a thick glass container. The sudden temperature change causes the glass to expand or contract rapidly at the surface while the core stays cool. This stress at the molecular level causes the glass to shatter. The same thing happens to acrylic.

Where does this sudden temperature change come from you ask.

Two primary sources. The first is the heating strip. Most commercial heating strips have a very narrow heat zone. Trying to heat acrylic to form a bend using these types of heaters will cause the formation of those micro fissures. They are most often invisible to the eye. But once crazing begins, IT WILL NOT STOP. It may be an all of a sudden (over a few days in aquarium time) or gradual. But it will continue from one edge to the other.

The second cause of crazing is flame polishing of the seams. Again, just like the example above, severe molecular level stresses cause the micro fissures resulting in crazing.

Also the type of acrylic can be a contributing factor but not the primary cause. Cell cast acrylic is less susceptible than the continuous cast. But this is a contributory factor, not the primary.

How to prevent crazing

Use proper heating and forming equipment. This is hard to do. Our heating and forming equipment is custom manufactured and not readily available. If fabricators cannot form bends without causing stress fractures, then simply stick with square corner fabs.

Do not flame polish. Enough said.



Another cause of crazing is the use of the wrong saw blade while cutting (AND DRILLING) sheets to size. Be sure to use blades intended for acrylic.
also windex will mess your tank up if it gets inside of it.
 

Mellotang

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Can you wet sand and polish to remove windex haze?

Ive tried before
Sanded from 200-3500
Polished and still didn’t get it crystal clear
 
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Tenecor Aquariums

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Can you wet sand and polish to remove windex haze?

Ive tried before
Sanded from 200-3500
Polished and still didn’t get it crystal clear
You bring up a topic I was going to write about later this week. I don't know what you mean by Windex haze. I presume it is a permeated blue tint in the acrylic. Hard to say. It sounds like you are doing a good progressive sanding job. Another option you might consider is automotive rubbing compound. This can be pretty aggressive so be careful.
 

Mellotang

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Yeah I’m not sure what exactly I was trying to sand and polish

I’ve sanded and polished many tanks and always achieve desired results

this aquarium I was contracted to polish I never got a straight answer as to what caused the cloudiness
I suspect windex

it had scratches which I was able to remove, I assumed I would be able to get the cloudy area out also but no luck

I sanded and polished that aquarium 2x

I prefer novus for polishing as opposed to 3m products
 
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I don't think you are dealing with Windex. Sounds like something attacked and attached to the acrylic. How big is the area?
 

Mellotang

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It was an area about 3’x2’ on the outside of the aquarium

I’ve never seen it before

maybe acetone?

Who knows
Luckily it was in the past but I always wondered if I could have polished it somehow

lol, I hate being defeated
 

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