TheWB’s IM Lagoon 50

[TheWB]

I'd try one. I like the way they branch--lots of space between branches so minimal shading--and that tang would probably sleep it eventually. A couple of mine sleep in the slimer in the back of my 50 gallon.

For $15 you can't go wrong. Some corals just don't do well in some tanks, just the way it is and we don't have all the answers i think. I've had corals like that before. If your alk stays relatively stable (and judging by your coralline grow it is...) then green slimer would grow in your tank IMO. Stable alk and its fine IMO.

If it slimes up when first added, just make sure to turkey baste off the slim frequently until it stops... After that sliming period, i don't think it mandates a ton of flow especially frags. It doesn't need a lot of par IMO, whatever your LPS are getting is fine. I would say 75 to 100 would be fine at the low end, and with those lights closer to the top of the tank--the par has to be that much or your anemone would be having problems....

I have a par meter if you want to borrow it to get dialed in.

An even easier one to try is green or orange digitata but the growth isn't as branchy.

Just an idea, LOVE the tank totally understand taking it slow and methodical!

That’s interesting. I did not realize that they didn’t need as much par. I’d love to know what my par readings are so I just might take you up on that offer since you’re so close by. The nem does seem happy so I’m sure what I’ve got running is fine but it would be great to know what that actually is. It’s the default LPS setting built into the programming of the Unos. I also need to really sit down with the instructions for the Unos and figure out how to make programming adjustments. They don’t have a slider like a Radion does that lets you pick a spectrum and then adjust the intensity up/down. Or if it does it’s not obvious and I haven’t found it yet. It would sure make tweaks easier.

My coralline has taken off recently after frankly being very stunted for a long while. Alk always tests between 9 and 9.8 dkh. My tank is sorta mature at 2 and a half years up and running with livestock but in some ways it’s still developing. I still have some trouble with Favia and other encrusting coral like chalices. Lately all but my oldest Acan have started to shrink. Other things like eyphillia and Zoas are doing very well. And then I’ve got a candy cane and a blasto that look great but will not grow new heads period. Blasto has been the same since I got it two years ago. My latest ICP test shows that my chemistry is basically in line. You are right though, some things just don’t do as well as others. Maybe a green slimer would be a good test sps now that more coralline is happening.

Thanks for the kind words about the tank. I like it and though it’s been a slow build I think that’s paid off for me because I have not had any uncontrollable problems like I had in my last tank a few years ago where frankly I had no idea what I was doing. Made some bad equipment choices along the way but haven’t we all? Overall it’s been a fun tank to get back into the hobby with. I do want to go a little bigger soon but I’ve been informed that patience will be necessary lol.

I’m pretty excited to see what you come up with for the big garage tank/brewery thing you’ve got going on, especially after seeing the magnificence that is the 50, but I’m guessing that’s gotta wait a little while longer with the new baby to take care of. Mine are 23 and 17 so it’s been a long time for me since there was a newborn in my house. Exciting times right?

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

That’s interesting. I did not realize that they didn’t need as much par. I’d love to know what my par readings are so I just might take you up on that offer since you’re so close by. The nem does seem happy so I’m sure what I’ve got running is fine but it would be great to know what that act is. It’s the default LPS setting built into the programming of the Unos. I also need to really sit down with the instructions for the Unos and figure out how to make programming adjustments. They don’t have a slider like a Radion does that lets you pick a spectrum and then adjust the intensity up/down. Or if it does it’s not obvious and I haven’t found it yet. It would sure make tweaks easier.

My coralline has taken off recently after frankly being very stunted for a long while. Alk always tests between 9 and 9.8 dkh. My tank is sorta mature at 2 and a half years up and running with livestock but in some ways it’s still developing. I still have some trouble with Favia and other encrusting coral like chalices. Lately all but my oldest Acan have started to shrink. Other things like eyphillia and Zoas are doing very well. And then I’ve got a candy cane and a blasto that look great but will not grow new heads period. Blasto has been the same since I got it two years ago. My latest ICP test shows that my chemistry is basically in line. You are right though, some things just don’t do as well as others. Maybe a green slimer would be a good test sps now that more coralline is happening.

Thanks for the kind words about the tank. I like it and though it’s been a slow build I think that’s paid off for me because I have not had any uncontrollable problems like I had in my last tank a few years ago where frankly I had no idea what I was doing. Made some bad equipment choices along the way but haven’t we all? Overall it’s been a fun tank to get back into the hobby with. I do want to go a little bigger soon but I’ve been informed that patience will be necessary lol.

I’m pretty excited to see what you come up with for the big garage tank/brewery thing you’ve got going on, especially after seeing the magnificence that is the 50, but I’m guessing that’s gotta wait a little while longer with the new baby to take care of. Mine are 23 and 17 so it’s been a long time for me since there was a newborn in my house. Exciting times right?

Message me and we'll get that par meter over to you. That may solve some mysteries or help you dial in some corals. You have nice caves if some of the LPS is getting too much light.

 

[TheWB]

Message me and we'll get that par meter over to you. That may solve some mysteries or help you dial in some corals. You have nice caves if some of the LPS is getting too much light.

I will do that, but probably after I learn to adjust the lights better if that’s ok. That way I can test par and then make any needed adjustments at the same time without keeping the meter for a month while I’m figuring it out. I want to be a responsible borrower

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

Are you feeding any of the LPS?

 

[TheWB]

Are you feeding any of the LPS?

I try to target them with some reef roids once or twice a week. Admittedly that’s been a little more once than twice lately. I should try to get them more food.

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

I try to target them with some reef roids once or twice a week. Admittedly that’s been a little more once than twice lately. I should try to get them more food.

yeah, maybe, it's a balance though trying keep nuisance algae at bay and water quality up. I've stopped using the reefroids and dry coral food and liquid amino acids for now. Seem to be having better luck with getting some feeding in but keeping the rock clean feeding live phyto, small doses of liquid oyster food, and frozen fish/coral food.

Not feeding corals any specific food is easier ii think and i'm not sure it's not just as good of an approach. It's just that some of those LPS seem to really reach out and eat, so i feel like i should feed them.

 

[TheWB]

yeah, maybe, it's a balance though trying keep nuisance algae at bay and water quality up. I've stopped using the reefroids and dry coral food and liquid amino acids for now. Seem to be having better luck with getting some feeding in but keeping the rock clean feeding live phyto, small doses of liquid oyster food, and frozen fish/coral food.

Not feeding corals any specific food is easier ii think and i'm not sure it's not just as good of an approach. It's just that some of those LPS seem to really reach out and eat, so i feel like i should feed them.

I hear ya. I recently eradicated bryopsis from my tank (had to dose flux rx twice) and currently there is no nuisance algae in the tank, other than whatever builds up on the glass every few days. I’m trying to keep it that way while at the same time trying to find a sweet spot for nutrients that will help the coral take off. My nitrates are always well under 10 but I’m loosely managing that with Nopox so the tank doesn’t maintain that level by itself. My last phosphate test was 0.03 and I have been trying to manage that with some phosphat-e when needed. I feel like my ratio of N to P has always been off and that’s been the limiting factor to LPS growth. I think I feed the fish pretty heavy but with flake or pellet more than frozen which doesn’t help the P level. If I could get the nutrient levels dialed in better I could probably stop any kind of direct feeding of coral. Basically I need a little more N, a little less P and a way to keep it that way consistently without that becoming my full time job. I don’t have time to test and tweak every day. That’s one reason why you’ll never see me with a full blown sps dominant reef or a tank that’s too much bigger than what I’ve got right now, although upsizing to an SR80 or custom AIO of some sort in that size range is definitely on my agenda at some point. That would be as big as I’d want to go though.
My tank Is in that zone where the fish are great and the coral is mostly just ok. I don’t really have any problems but the LPS is just kinda stuck, they mostly look good but don’t grow much. Whats strange is that I’ve experienced a growth spurt of coralline over the last month and you’d think if that is happening that things like acans would be showing growth also but 3 of my 4 acans are smaller than they used to be. I don’t think they are getting a too much par but I’m going to move them off to the side where it’s a little less and see if they perk back up.

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

I hear ya. I recently eradicated bryopsis from my tank (had to dose flux rx twice) and currently there is no nuisance algae in the tank, other than whatever builds up on the glass every few days. I’m trying to keep it that way while at the same time trying to find a sweet spot for nutrients that will help the coral take off. My nitrates are always well under 10 but I’m loosely managing that with Nopox so the tank doesn’t maintain that level by itself. My last phosphate test was 0.03 and I have been trying to manage that with some phosphat-e when needed. I feel like my ratio of N to P has always been off and that’s been the limiting factor to LPS growth. I think I feed the fish pretty heavy but with flake or pellet more than frozen which doesn’t help the P level. If I could get the nutrient levels dialed in better I could probably stop any kind of direct feeding of coral. Basically I need a little more N, a little less P and a way to keep it that way consistently without that becoming my full time job. I don’t have time to test and tweak every day. That’s one reason why you’ll never see me with a full blown sps dominant reef or a tank that’s too much bigger than what I’ve got right now, although upsizing to an SR80 or custom AIO of some sort in that size range is definitely on my agenda at some point. That would be as big as I’d want to go though.
My tank Is in that zone where the fish are great and the coral is mostly just ok. I don’t really have any problems but the LPS is just kinda stuck, they mostly look good but don’t grow much. Whats strange is that I’ve experienced a growth spurt of coralline over the last month and you’d think if that is happening that things like acans would be showing growth also but 3 of my 4 acans are smaller than they used to be. I don’t think they are getting a too much par but I’m going to move them off to the side where it’s a little less and see if they perk back up.

You're tank looks really healthy to me, so don't change too much in terms of water quality, maybe. If no algae issues it might be best to just keep a stable nutrient level, whatever it is. Sometimes corals just are corals and persnickety, totally agree with trying different placement and/or light and/or flow. Give em a couple-three months in a new spot maybe.

My 50 gallon is settling in with higher nitrates and phosphates after a few months. But there is not a spec of nusiance algae anywhere. When i took steps to lower the nutrients, i had dinos flare up, and never bottomed out the nutrients. I took care of the dinos with manual removal, basting, and bacteria additions, and water changes. The nitrates are settling is around 40ppm and phosphates around 0.1 to 0.2ppm. Both higher than i would want, but the corals in the tank have never looked better. The glass stays clean for at least a week. The substrate is spotless and so is the live rock....

I did add biopellets and started dosing vodka, but i am taking that pretty slow, not sure its even needed. My concern is higher nitrates over time, so trying to slowly lower. But if things start going sour--i am totally fine taking that bio crap off line and living with higher nitrates and phosphates--because the tank looks great.

One thing is that my general par levels are definitely high. The center of the tank with those clams ranges from 450 to 600 (focused on the very center with kessil narrow optics) on the sand to 1000 plus at the surface. So it may just be the livestock with all that light energy need the higher nutrients.

 

[doh_nutz]

As promised, fresh FTS. Scuse the algae build up on the glass.

and for fun one from the side.

Your tank looks like its settling in very nicely! My tank has been up and running since April and I've yet to see any Coraline algae growth anywhere except a few spots on the return nozzles. Oh well. Such as life. However, I do know when it does start growing, it GROWS and SPREADS.

 

[TheWB]

You're tank looks really healthy to me, so don't change too much in terms of water quality, maybe. If no algae issues it might be best to just keep a stable nutrient level, whatever it is. Sometimes corals just are corals and persnickety, totally agree with trying different placement and/or light and/or flow. Give em a couple-three months in a new spot maybe.

My 50 gallon is settling in with higher nitrates and phosphates after a few months. But there is not a spec of nusiance algae anywhere. When i took steps to lower the nutrients, i had dinos flare up, and never bottomed out the nutrients. I took care of the dinos with manual removal, basting, and bacteria additions, and water changes. The nitrates are settling is around 40ppm and phosphates around 0.1 to 0.2ppm. Both higher than i would want, but the corals in the tank have never looked better. The glass stays clean for at least a week. The substrate is spotless and so is the live rock....

I did add biopellets and started dosing vodka, but i am taking that pretty slow, not sure its even needed. My concern is higher nitrates over time, so trying to slowly lower. But if things start going sour--i am totally fine taking that bio crap off line and living with higher nitrates and phosphates--because the tank looks great.

One thing is that my general par levels are definitely high. The center of the tank with those clams ranges from 450 to 600 (focused on the very center with kessil narrow optics) on the sand to 1000 plus at the surface. So it may just be the livestock with all that light energy need the higher nutrients.

I’m definitely not talking about major changes. More like N around 10 instead of 6 and P around .01 instead of .03 but those are just targets, I’m not fervently figuring out how to tweak my way into those exact parameters or anything lol, that’s for sure not my style. I probably wouldn’t think about it at all if the was just a little more growth going on.

Your parameters on the 50 are definitely in a range that would have a lot of people freaking out but every tank is different and its working for you so no need to change. No algae issues, thriving corals, yes please, I’m good with that.

if you’ve got 1000 par at the surface then its obvious why there’s no algae in that tank, it’s been vaporized with a laser
I saw your lighting setup and there’s a lot going on in that canopy, you’ll never be lacking for light.

 

[TheWB]

Your tank looks like its settling in very nicely! My tank has been up and running since April and I've yet to see any Coraline algae growth anywhere except a few spots on the return nozzles. Oh well. Such as life. However, I do know when it does start growing, it GROWS and SPREADS.

Thanks, overall things are pretty good, aside from the lps growth issues we’ve been hashing out recently. It took a long time for coralline to really get going in this tank and I used whatever that pink and purple additive is that you can get twice. It’s been wet since Jan 2019, had fish since June 2019 and has only really started to have coralline take a good hold in the last month. It’s always been present here and there but the purpling up of this tank took forever.

 

[doh_nutz]

I’m definitely not talking about major changes. More like N around 10 instead of 6 and P around .01 instead of .03 but those are just targets, I’m not fervently figuring out how to tweak my way into those exact parameters or anything lol, that’s for sure not my style. I probably wouldn’t think about it at all if the was just a little more growth going on.

Your parameters on the 50 are definitely in a range that would have a lot of people freaking out but every tank is different and its working for you so no need to change. No algae issues, thriving corals, yes please, I’m good with that.

if you’ve got 1000 par at the surface then its obvious why there’s no algae in that tank, it’s been vaporized with a laser
I saw your lighting setup and there’s a lot going on in that canopy, you’ll never be lacking for light.

I'm in a similar boat as you. My N is 6.8 and P is .01. I was thinking I need to raise my N up somehow but since things seem to be in check and balanced looking... I don't want to push my luck too hard. ha

 

[TheWB]

I'm in a similar boat as you. My N is 6.8 and P is .01. I was thinking I need to raise my N up somehow but since things seem to be in check and balanced looking... I don't want to push my luck too hard. ha

Even though I just said I’d like to have it, a P level of .01 worries me because it’s close to bottoming out and within the margin of error when testing so it could be zero. That’s where I have to resist the urge to do something. Getting the N to rise a little seems much easier to accomplish. You are right, if everything is looking good no need to push your luck. It‘s about the consistency we’re all striving for as long as things are going good.

 

[happyhourhero]

I think you should do the green slimer too. Your LPS can handle a lot more light than folks think too. The slimer really is a nice piece once it grows out. It’s one of my favorite acros.

 

[TheWB]

I think you should do the green slimer too. Your LPS can handle a lot more light than folks think too. The slimer really is a nice piece once it grows out. It’s one of my favorite acros.

The consensus seems to be that I need to acquire a green slimer. Maybe next time I go through Bellevue I’ll stop at the LFS’s and see who has one.

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

I’m definitely not talking about major changes. More like N around 10 instead of 6 and P around .01 instead of .03 but those are just targets, I’m not fervently figuring out how to tweak my way into those exact parameters or anything lol, that’s for sure not my style. I probably wouldn’t think about it at all if the was just a little more growth going on.

Your parameters on the 50 are definitely in a range that would have a lot of people freaking out but every tank is different and its working for you so no need to change. No algae issues, thriving corals, yes please, I’m good with that.

if you’ve got 1000 par at the surface then its obvious why there’s no algae in that tank, it’s been vaporized with a laser
I saw your lighting setup and there’s a lot going on in that canopy, you’ll never be lacking for light.

It's pretty crazy par, 1000 in the center less than 200 on the side walls. But i worked hard for such perfect "spread" hahaha.

 

[TheWB]

It's pretty crazy par, 1000 in the center less than 200 on the side walls. But i worked hard for such perfect "spread" hahaha.

That is an impressive accomplishment on a tank with a 30x24x16 display area. Your practically hitting those clams with light sabres aren’t ya.

 

[doh_nutz]

Even though I just said I’d like to have it, a P level of .01 worries me because it’s close to bottoming out and within the margin of error when testing so it could be zero. That’s where I have to resist the urge to do something. Getting the N to rise a little seems much easier to accomplish. You are right, if everything is looking good no need to push your luck. It‘s about the consistency we’re all striving for as long as things are going good.

I totally agree 100% with you on the P potentially bottoming out. That's why I'd like to a bit higher.

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

That is an impressive accomplishment on a tank with a 30x24x16 display area. Your practically hitting those clams with light sabres aren’t ya.

I dig kessils with those different lens, like the swiss army knife of reef lights, can't wait to put up the 500's on the 200 gallon.

The par meter is nice for screwing around with lights. The T5's lose par quick as you raise them, the reefbrites penetrate better and i have them on the front and back edges.

It was a matter of raising the t5's and reefbrites high enough to hit a base par level for the tank, maybe 125 to 175 or so. Then put the right lens on the kessils and angle them in the center to create the hot the spot in the center. Spill light from the kessils raised the edges a bit but not too much.

When i had the ultra narrow reflectors on, i was getting 800 par on the sand bed, lol. The hot spot was the right size, but anything near it other than clams was legit frying. And the kessil shimmer was not hitting the edges of the tank.

The medium 55 degree reflector seems tp be the right compromise. But the clams get less par than i want (still around 350 to 600, depending on where they move to--they tend to congregate and move a bit, which i saw in an research video was typical of young clams in groups).

I think new panel lights should have par zones so you can turn portions of leds or pucks in panels up or down in intensity/par. Create spots for different corals below.

That's the challenge of smaller tanks having light hungrey critters mixed in with low light ones.

I may adjust, but havent seen the need and everything is settling in so maybe better not to adjust. So many cords and lights was bear to set up, but i dig the look. Hopefully no power supplies go bad or ill be cursing and knuck busting switching them out!

 

[TheWB]

I dig kessils with those different lens, like the swiss army knife of reef lights, can't wait to put up the 500's on the 200 gallon.

The par meter is nice for screwing around with lights. The T5's lose par quick as you raise them, the reefbrites penetrate better and i have them on the front and back edges.

It was a matter of raising the t5's and reefbrites high enough to hit a base par level for the tank, maybe 125 to 175 or so. Then put the right lens on the kessils and angle them in the center to create the hot the spot in the center. Spill light from the kessils raised the edges a bit but not too much.

When i had the ultra narrow reflectors on, i was getting 800 par on the sand bed, lol. The hot spot was the right size, but anything near it other than clams was legit frying. And the kessil shimmer was not hitting the edges of the tank.

The medium 55 degree reflector seems tp be the right compromise. But the clams get less par than i want (still around 350 to 600, depending on where they move to--they tend to congregate and move a bit, which i saw in an research video was typical of young clams in groups).

I think new panel lights should have par zones so you can turn portions of leds or pucks in panels up or down in intensity/par. Create spots for different corals below.

That's the challenge of smaller tanks having light hungrey critters mixed in with low light ones.

I may adjust, but havent seen the need and everything is settling in so maybe better not to adjust. So many cords and lights was bear to set up, but i dig the look. Hopefully no power supplies go bad or ill be cursing and knuck busting switching them out!

I think in your situation a Par meter is essential. When mixing the different types of lighting that you have and with clams that have particular needs you’ve got to dial it in. In my case the Reefi Unos do an excellent job of blanketing the display space in light on the default LPS setting and I think most of the corals like it but without actual Par data is a bit of a crapshoot.
Customizable zones on the newer panel style lights would be a great feature. I’ve thought about un-syncing the Unos to create a higher light zone for the nem and a lower light area for the LPS but with only two of them at different intensities the display would look weird.