TheWB’s IM Lagoon 50

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TheWB

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I got a response from Mode and they said it is $44.99 plus $7 shipping for a replacement pump. It only seems like you have to get in touch with them in order to purchase a replacement pump because it seems like they do not have it on the website.
Thanks for reporting back with that info, much appreciated. I wish they would just add a parts section to the website. I’m not really into giving out my credit card number over the phone, I’d much rather use PayPal for something like this, especially because they don’t seem to respond to email. It’s hard to overcome prior bad experiences and I think these are the same employees as before the ownership change since the address didn’t change.
‘Keep me in the loop on how your skimmer arrives, the packaging and so forth. I’ll be interested to see if yours arrives in better condition than mine did. I really hope it does.
 

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Yeah I don't blame you. They did mention about possibly adding it to their website soon. As far as ETA I have no clue. They did mention that they can send you an invoice via PayPal for the replacement part, but like you said you don't have a Facebook to reach out to them with. Maybe a phone call may work and ask them to send you the invoice via PayPal. I have the skimmer setup and running and wow this thing is actually super nice! Luckily, I received it with everything intact. It does feel and look like a good quality skimmer and I cannot wait to see the skimmate it pulls out. It slides into the first chamber much easier than my IceCap K1-50 did.
 
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Yeah I don't blame you. They did mention about possibly adding it to their website soon. As far as ETA I have no clue. They did mention that they can send you an invoice via PayPal for the replacement part, but like you said you don't have a Facebook to reach out to them with. Maybe a phone call may work and ask them to send you the invoice via PayPal. I have the skimmer setup and running and wow this thing is actually super nice! Luckily, I received it with everything intact. It does feel and look like a good quality skimmer and I cannot wait to see the skimmate it pulls out. It slides into the first chamber much easier than my IceCap K1-50 did.
Nice!! Post up some pics. It is a well made skimmer and it works great. I had no doubt you would be happy with it as long as it was in one piece and included all the parts when you got it.
One thing that helped me was to keep the two adjustment screws at the bottom fairly loose. That way it’s easier to make little tweaks to get the foam level just where you want it. Since you have to turn the whole body to make adjustments it’s much easier if they are loose.
 

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Yes, I made sure the bottom white screws were loose enough to make it easy to adjust water level. This thing is so easy to adjust the foam level. I am liking it so far in terms of adjustment, taking it out to clean, and emptying the collection cup! I think I have it sitting a bit lower than yours, but I may make adjustments to the clip on part and raise the skimmer up a little if I see fit.

IMG_1345.jpg
 
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Yes, I made sure the bottom white screws were loose enough to make it easy to adjust water level. This thing is so easy to adjust the foam level. I am liking it so far in terms of adjustment, taking it out to clean, and emptying the collection cup! I think I have it sitting a bit lower than yours, but I may make adjustments to the clip on part and raise the skimmer up a little if I see fit.

IMG_1345.jpg
That looks good. I don’t think the water level matters that much as long as it‘s within the specs for operation. I have mine as far down as it will go without the pump touching the bottom glass, I didn’t want it to rattle, it’s noisy enough as it is. Do you run any mechanical filtration? I’ve thought about switching the skimmer and the fuge so that the fuge is in the 2nd chamber where its supposed to be but I always have so much gunk in the back I’m afraid of how much more there would be without the filter pads.
 

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All I run is a skimmer and then an inTank media basket with 2 slots for filter sponges from inTank as well. It does get a bit dirty back there, but it isnt too bad. My Cadlights is surprisingly quieter than my IceCap was and I love it lol.
 

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Sorry, scratch that. I run the stock media basket that you get with the tank. I bought a bunch of sheets of the inTank filter pads and cut them to size and change out twice a week.
 
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Sorry, scratch that. I run the stock media basket that you get with the tank. I bought a bunch of sheets of the inTank filter pads and cut them to size and change out twice a week.
I had this situation happening at one point a couple years ago so mechanical filtration is a must have on my system. This was the area underneath chambers 1 and 2. It was like silt. I have idea how that much stuff made it down there, but it did.
B6043A77-A729-48DA-AC62-05324AD63A01.jpeg
 
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I recently purchased these Aquavital Test Strips and decided to try them out today.
E00D3A0E-C60A-439A-89C2-E5A8A8D56467.jpeg

I’m just not as consistent on testing as I should be and while I know that these strips are probably not super accurate compared to a Hanna Checker for Cal and Alk I figured for a quick snapshot they were worth a try. I test NO3 and PO4 pretty regularly but I never break out the Cal and Alk testers. I used one strip on my new water that is made with TLF AccuraSea1 salt mix and one on the tank which has not had a water change in about 12 days. Results are as follows.

New water: NO3 = 0, NO2 = 0, Cal = 400, DKH = 10, and PH = 8.2
Tank Water: NO3 = 10, NO2 = 0, Cal = 400, DKH = Between 6 &10, PH = 7.8

Not sure if these things are real effective for Cal and Alk but I’m sending in the same water for an ICP test today so that should provide some insight. The strips are about 50 cents each in a package of 50 so I thought they were worth checking out based on my habits.
 

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I recently purchased these Aquavital Test Strips and decided to try them out today.
E00D3A0E-C60A-439A-89C2-E5A8A8D56467.jpeg

I’m just not as consistent on testing as I should be and while I know that these strips are probably not super accurate compared to a Hanna Checker for Cal and Alk I figured for a quick snapshot they were worth a try. I test NO3 and PO4 pretty regularly but I never break out the Cal and Alk testers. I used one strip on my new water that is made with TLF AccuraSea1 salt mix and one on the tank which has not had a water change in about 12 days. Results are as follows.

New water: NO3 = 0, NO2 = 0, Cal = 400, DKH = 10, and PH = 8.2
Tank Water: NO3 = 10, NO2 = 0, Cal = 400, DKH = Between 6 &10, PH = 7.8

Not sure if these things are real effective for Cal and Alk but I’m sending in the same water for an ICP test today so that should provide some insight. The strips are about 50 cents each in a package of 50 so I thought they were worth checking out based on my habits.

For me it's calcium and magnesium that never get tested. Even though I have the test kits and I think they are pretty accurate, they are just so annoying and fiddly. Pretty much, calcium and magnesium get tested if I send out an ICP test. Let someone else do it! I'd definitely welcome a quick and easy ballpark test.
 
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For me it's calcium and magnesium that never get tested. Even though I have the test kits and I think they are pretty accurate, they are just so annoying and fiddly. Pretty much, calcium and magnesium get tested if I send out an ICP test. Let someone else do it! I'd definitely welcome a quick and easy ballpark test.
I really should break out the Alk Checker more often. It’s not hard to do, I’m just lazy. By the time I do Nitrate and Phosphate I just don’t want to do anymore tests. Pure laziness, I can’t even lie. I think my reagent for Alk is expired again so I’ll have to order some. ICP was mailed today and I’ll be very interested to see how that turns out.
 
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Results from my ATI ICP tests for both tank water and r/o are in.

Tank Water.
E091888F-C5AF-4695-80B5-2385D63B8163.png
87F8B77E-DE9C-4C29-A0FB-03854E2E7BAB.png
96AB1CE9-BF42-465F-9E47-34253AB9079A.png

This is my first time doing an ICP test. It seems pretty good, a couple of things to look into.

R/O Water
E88F73B7-4E37-4120-97DF-BFB3463FDC1E.png

The R/O result is a little surprising since I’m using 3 stages of DI, Cation, Anion and then a mixed bed, in that order. I wonder how the silicates are getting through. I was also surprised to see any nitrate. I don’t know if that is normal or not.
 

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I really should break out the Alk Checker more often. It’s not hard to do, I’m just lazy. By the time I do Nitrate and Phosphate I just don’t want to do anymore tests. Pure laziness, I can’t even lie. I think my reagent for Alk is expired again so I’ll have to order some. ICP was mailed today and I’ll be very interested to see how that turns out.

It's funny, after you posted this I realized I didn't bother with Alk this week either and that's one of the "easy" ones. I'd argue that my alk doesn't fluctuate anyway but it's thoughts like that that got me a good case of dinos (nitrate and phosphate are perfect, no need to test). ;Hilarious

Results from my ATI ICP tests for both tank water and r/o are in.

Tank Water.
E091888F-C5AF-4695-80B5-2385D63B8163.png
87F8B77E-DE9C-4C29-A0FB-03854E2E7BAB.png
96AB1CE9-BF42-465F-9E47-34253AB9079A.png

This is my first time doing an ICP test. It seems pretty good, a couple of things to look into.

R/O Water
E88F73B7-4E37-4120-97DF-BFB3463FDC1E.png

The R/O result is a little surprising since I’m using 3 stages of DI, Cation, Anion and then a mixed bed, in that order. I wonder how the silicates are getting through. I was also surprised to see any nitrate. I don’t know if that is normal or not.

This is the same company I've used for ICP tests and I've been pretty happy with them. Personally I'd keep an eye on that PO4 number. A bit too close to zero for my liking (totally opposite from my tank, I'd like to know your secret). I've never had anything show up in my RODI and I just use the standard BRS 4 stage unit. Could it be the tank where you store your RODI water leaching something?

Finally going to add some new fish.
59B71B0D-6719-45BF-8D95-C7A88E1B7C34.png

I know that an Aiptasia Eating File Fish is a risk but the Aiptasia is just out of control. I can always get it out if I have to but I think it’s worth a shot.

Nice fish! May be a bit risky but at least if the filefish doesn't eat aiptasia for you it's still a neat fish. I really like the court jester goby.
 
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It's funny, after you posted this I realized I didn't bother with Alk this week either and that's one of the "easy" ones. I'd argue that my alk doesn't fluctuate anyway but it's thoughts like that that got me a good case of dinos (nitrate and phosphate are perfect, no need to test). ;Hilarious



This is the same company I've used for ICP tests and I've been pretty happy with them. Personally I'd keep an eye on that PO4 number. A bit too close to zero for my liking (totally opposite from my tank, I'd like to know your secret). I've never had anything show up in my RODI and I just use the standard BRS 4 stage unit. Could it be the tank where you store your RODI water leaching something?



Nice fish! May be a bit risky but at least if the filefish doesn't eat aiptasia for you it's still a neat fish. I really like the court jester goby.
Thanks, I’m hoping for the best with the File Fish but I’ll be prepared if it has to get the boot. I hope not though because my daughter saw the picture and it is now her favorite fish.

I hear ya about the PO4 but that number isn’t real. I had a pretty good breakout of bryopsis going on when I took the samples, I’m sure there’s a lot of PO4 bound up in the algae.

I love that ATI gives you a plan to fix the parameters that are off. I do not love that it’s $120.00 worth of supplements to do it. I may just do the Iodine, Bromine and Mangan supplements as those were the farthest out of tune. I’ve never really dosed anything, just been relying on 4.5 gal per week water changes, but I’m wondering if a small amount of All For Reef might be in order now and that would help keep things like Iodine in line. Overall I think my water is in pretty good shape. What do you think?
 

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Thanks, I’m hoping for the best with the File Fish but I’ll be prepared if it has to get the boot. I hope not though because my daughter saw the picture and it is now her favorite fish.

I hear ya about the PO4 but that number isn’t real. I had a pretty good breakout of bryopsis going on when I took the samples, I’m sure there’s a lot of PO4 bound up in the algae.

I love that ATI gives you a plan to fix the parameters that are off. I do not love that it’s $120.00 worth of supplements to do it. I may just do the Iodine, Bromine and Mangan supplements as those were the farthest out of tune. I’ve never really dosed anything, just been relying on 4.5 gal per week water changes, but I’m wondering if a small amount of All For Reef might be in order now and that would help keep things like Iodine in line. Overall I think my water is in pretty good shape. What do you think?

I started using All For Reef for the same exact reason. Pretty much same as you, overall good test results, just a few minor blips. You might want to break out that Alk test kit, though, because I've found that I need to be a lot more conservative with my AFR dosing than they recommend otherwise my Alk starts to climb, but I think you have a lot more coral than I do so it might not be an problem.
 

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I've thought about file fish but for me and my reef, it might not be a good match.
My reef is pretty high flow and some of my fish can be a little obnoxious for a slow mover like a file fish.
On top of that, I have fears of aptasia eating filefish turning into coral eating filefish.

Please let me know how this works out for you.

No luck with the nudibranch?
 
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I've thought about file fish but for me and my reef, it might not be a good match.
My reef is pretty high flow and some of my fish can be a little obnoxious for a slow mover like a file fish.
On top of that, I have fears of aptasia eating filefish turning into coral eating filefish.

Please let me know how this works out for you.

No luck with the nudibranch?
I will keep you in the loop. No luck with the Nudibranchs, at least no obvious luck. The thing with the filefish is at least I’ll be able to see it working if its doing it’s job. The nudis are never visible so if they are even still alive how would I know? I guess I just felt like drastic measures needed to be taken if I was ever going to get the aiptasia under control. For $35 the filefish is worth the risk and if it starts eating coral it will be fired, probably.
 

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Let us know how the a4r conversion goes. I am about a week into mine and after a bit of a spike found that 4ml per day seems to hold my alk steady. Tonight’s test will confirm.
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

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