Thicknesses of seal on 100gal reseal job?

[Tragg23]

So I just completed my first/second reseal job on a 55 gal future sump tank. The first time I did it I attempted the finger method to smooth the seal and it looked terrible. I restripped, retapped, and resealed using a caulking tool on the 10 side (I suppose 10mm?). I’m on day 4 of leak test. so far, so good. Attached are photos. Here is the tool I used:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-4PC-Caulk-Tool-Kit/1001573508

To my question, while the 10mm did the job it looks too thick to replicate in my display tank. In the display tank I want to do black silicone and move down to 8mm. Will this be strong enough? Also, the top frame has silicone as well, how hard are the top frames/brace to remove?

 

[xxkenny90xx]

You used a caulking tool? Blasphemy!

 

[TDEcoral]

The plastic frames can be a pain in the butt to remove, depending on how much silicone the manufacturer used. If you're going to remove it, you'll need to replace it with either a glass center brace or euro bracing around the perimeter. The glass thickness is insufficient to go full rimless with these mass produced tanks. Also, what actually holds the tank together is the silicone in the joints between panes. The silicone that's on the inside corner of the joints is insurance in case there are bubbles or whatnot in the silicone between panes. That's my understanding anyway. I've built/repaired a couple tanks, but I'm not an expert.

 

[Tragg23]

The plastic frames can be a pain in the butt to remove, depending on how much silicone the manufacturer used. If you're going to remove it, you'll need to replace it with either a glass center brace or euro bracing around the perimeter. The glass thickness is insufficient to go full rimless with these mass produced tanks. Also, what actually holds the tank together is the silicone in the joints between panes. The silicone that's on the inside corner of the joints is insurance in case there are bubbles or whatnot in the silicone between panes. That's my understanding anyway. I've built/repaired a couple tanks, but I'm not an expert.

thanks. My intention wasn’t to remove a discard, but to remove, clean, and put back on. On my 100 I do have the old faux wood with a glass center brace. I am going to paint the trim and reinstall.

since you have done this is GE1 silicone sufficient for a 100 gallon or do I need to buy some professional grade silicone?

 

[BZOFIQ]

since you have done this is GE1 silicone sufficient for a 100 gallon or do I need to buy some professional grade silicone?

You need 100% silicone - nothing that has any additives in it.

 

[TDEcoral]

thanks. My intention wasn’t to remove a discard, but to remove, clean, and put back on. On my 100 I do have the old faux wood with a glass center brace. I am going to paint the trim and reinstall.

since you have done this is GE1 silicone sufficient for a 100 gallon or do I need to buy some professional grade silicone?

Oh ok gotcha. I've done that before and it's worked out fine.

If it were me, I'd use SCS1200 or momentive RTV. GE1 would probably work fine though, if that's the version that's 100% silicone. I get 1 and 2 mixed up.

 

[Auntjemimma]

The plastic frames can be a pain in the butt to remove, depending on how much silicone the manufacturer used. If you're going to remove it, you'll need to replace it with either a glass center brace or euro bracing around the perimeter. The glass thickness is insufficient to go full rimless with these mass produced tanks. Also, what actually holds the tank together is the silicone in the joints between panes. The silicone that's on the inside corner of the joints is insurance in case there are bubbles or whatnot in the silicone between panes. That's my understanding anyway. I've built/repaired a couple tanks, but I'm not an expert.

I'm wondering if I can use a wooden frame / bracing as I am In the process of removing the plastic rims in order to fit my 90 gallon into an interior wall of my house. I think as long as I seal the wood well I should be ok.

 

[Grill]

I've done a few 210's with the plastic trim and glass center. The thickness of a tooth-pick is ideal. Here is a thread I posted in earlier this week, might give you some ideas. Braces are not holding properly

 

[Auntjemimma]

I've done a few 210's with the plastic trim and glass center. The thickness of a tooth-pick is ideal. Here is a thread I posted in earlier this week, might give you some ideas. Braces are not holding properly

I like the idea of using aluminum, I think I may try this but use some braze welding for the bracing and corners.

 

[Grill]

I like the idea of using aluminum, I think I may try this but use some braze welding for the bracing and corners.

I bought a couple brazing rods and experimented with a couple pieces but could never get a clean look. The fact I have zero welding experience didn't help. I went with mending plates and JB Weld. They have a 4hr. & 24hr. steel epoxy, I've used both on various tanks. The rivets are purely aesthetic.

 

[BrandonS]

I bought a couple brazing rods and experimented with a couple pieces but could never get a clean look. The fact I have zero welding experience didn't help. I went with mending plates and JB Weld. They have a 4hr. & 24hr. steel epoxy, I've used both on various tanks. The rivets are purely aesthetic.

Interesting... Never thought of this. Very cool. Stainless wire?

 

[BrandonS]

The key to silicone from a tube is the tip cut.

 

[Auntjemimma]

I bought a couple brazing rods and experimented with a couple pieces but could never get a clean look. The fact I have zero welding experience didn't help. I went with mending plates and JB Weld. They have a 4hr. & 24hr. steel epoxy, I've used both on various tanks. The rivets are purely aesthetic.

Do you think corrosion with be an issue in the future? Thanks the only thing I'm worried about with using the cable / nut and bolt method. Also where did you find the brackets for the build and tap the holes for the bolts?

Edit: nvm i see you said the rivets were aesthetic.

 

[Grill]

Interesting... Never thought of this. Very cool. Stainless wire?

Yeah. Whenever I see a deal on Craigslist for a tank (and have room in the garage) I pick it up and make a project out of it. Everyone has a certain "look" they want. Euro braced, rimless etc. I like the clean modern/industrial look. IMO I think its better than the thick glass cross braces. I use pencil glass along the seams to give it a reinforced seam and sometimes add a low iron pane for the front panel. This tank is 7ft. long and cost $200 with another $200 for accessories & cleaning supplies. Seemed like a 100 years to finish with non stop nagging from the wife to finish it.

 

[Auntjemimma]

Yeah. Whenever I see a deal on Craigslist for a tank (and have room in the garage) I pick it up and make a project out of it. Everyone has a certain "look" they want. Euro braced, rimless etc. I like the clean modern/industrial look. IMO I think its better than the thick glass cross braces. I use pencil glass along the seams to give it a reinforced seam and sometimes add a low iron pane for the front panel. This tank is 7ft. long and cost $200 with another $200 for accessories & cleaning supplies. Seemed like a 100 years to finish with non stop nagging from the wife to finish it.

I have an open window into my office area that I'm building the aquarium into. When finished you'll be able to see the aquarium from both sides (one from in my office and the other from the kitchen). I bought a 90 gallon from facebook marketplace and am in the process of removing the old trim and resealing the entire tank. My problem is that the tank glass is exactly 48" wide which is also the exact measurement of my window studs so I'm having to build a custom aquarium trim to fit the tank.

 

[BrandonS]

Yeah. Whenever I see a deal on Craigslist for a tank (and have room in the garage) I pick it up and make a project out of it. Everyone has a certain "look" they want. Euro braced, rimless etc. I like the clean modern/industrial look. IMO I think its better than the thick glass cross braces. I use pencil glass along the seams to give it a reinforced seam and sometimes add a low iron pane for the front panel. This tank is 7ft. long and cost $200 with another $200 for accessories & cleaning supplies. Seemed like a 100 years to finish with non stop nagging from the wife to finish it.

Very nice, I do the same thing with Craigslist, facebook marketplace, etc..

Looks good!

 

[BrandonS]

I have an open window into my office area that I'm building the aquarium into. When finished you'll be able to see the aquarium from both sides (one from in my office and the other from the kitchen). I bought a 90 gallon from facebook marketplace and am in the process of removing the old trim and resealing the entire tank. My problem is that the tank glass is exactly 48" wide which is also the exact measurement of my window studs so I'm having to build a custom aquarium trim to fit the tank.

Depending how they framed it could be easy to make it a 2x4 width wider.

 

[Grill]

Do you think corrosion with be an issue in the future? Thanks the only thing I'm worried about with using the cable / nut and bolt method. Also where did you find the brackets for the build and tap the holes for the bolts?

I haven't had any corrosion issues with the frame or cables but the bolts on a tank I did years ago did have corrosion. So now I treat them and add silicone to any pieces that are exposed. These are the kind of joining plates I've used. Joining Plates I can't remember the site I get them from, but you get the idea.

 

[Auntjemimma]

Depending how they framed it could be easy to make it a 2x4 width wider.

Technically I could move studs around but I'd really like to avoid removing as much drywall as possible. I don't think the wife would go for that especially since the house is 1 year old lol. I'm making basically creating a shiplap fireplace mantle kind of like the picture below except of course the tank will be 42" off of the ground. Also here's a picture of the window that the tank is going into.