Third time with cyanobacteria

[Paulo Faria]

Hello guys.

I need some help from you.
This is the third time Cyanobacteria grow exponentially in the aquarium, as you can see in the pics.
Already tried to vacuum and then insert Red X ( a portion a day for 6 days), without lights and ozone. They've disappeared for some days and now they're back.
Already tried almost everything. I do a water change about once a week. Is there a good product that I can use for this?

The parameters are:
PH - 8.3
Nitrite - 0
Amonia - 0.5
Nitrates - 10mg/L

Thanks in advance.

 

[Spare time]

What are your phosphate levels?



I'm guessing you used chemiclean?

 

[Sleeping Giant]

Blue life Red slime remover will help, might need multiple treatments. Works good for me.

 

[KeepSwimming12]

Hello guys.

I need some help from you.
This is the third time Cyanobacteria grow exponentially in the aquarium, as you can see in the pics.
Already tried to vacuum and then insert Red X ( a portion a day for 6 days), without lights and ozone. They've disappeared for some days and now they're back.
Already tried almost everything. I do a water change about once a week. Is there a good product that I can use for this?

The parameters are:
PH - 8.3
Nitrite - 0
Amonia - 0.5
Nitrates - 10mg/L

Thanks in advance.

I listened to a really interesting podcast featuring Dr Timothy Hovanec which is always my go to for aquarium advice. He said that the problem with many aquariums that get Cyanobacteria is that people buy products and they don’t really work and the Cyanobacteria comes back. He also said an antibiotic is the wrong course of action as beneficial nitrifying and hetetrophic bacteria cannot outcompete Cyanobacteria in an environment where nitrate and phosphate levels are non existent. What you need to do in order to increase your chances of getting rid of your Cyanobacteria in the long term is ensuring your nitrates sit at around 10ppm (which it seems you’re doing) and that your phosphate is around 0.4-06. While no nitrates is certainly a great thing in freshwater tanks, this is not the case with marine aquaria.

 

[brandon429]

how many gallons is the tank and can you take a standing back picture, so we can see full tank

 

[Paulo Faria]

What are your phosphate levels?



I'm guessing you used chemiclean?

I used something called Red X. German stuff.

 

[Paulo Faria]

how many gallons is the tank and can you take a standing back picture, so we can see full tank

40 gallons tank.
Here's the pic (a bit messy because I'm cleaning it).

 

[brandon429]

Wonderful that its a manageable size vs 310 gallons

we can tell from the positioning of your fish (breathing well, not hovering) and the surface area to bioload ratio (high, very high and bioload is low, very low) that your ammonia is just fine, that read above is a test error. It also requires TAN conversion for the nh3 form of ammonia in the report in order to relay accurately how reefs process ammonia after cycling, and we can see that tank is plenty cycled. the real nh3 form in that reef is between .002-.009 after such conversion, based on seneye studies for that working ratio above. Don't dose prime or add bottled bacteria here.

the invasion is part of brightly lit tanks lacking diversity/new tanks it doesnt mean you have bad water params.



I have a direct example of fixing that in one pass, and its a long term fix as well. You can experiment with hands off ways that kill the target, eventually finding one. but that's adding rotting target mass on top of the current detritus loading, which plugs up rock pores. our method here makes your tank fixed by today, however long it takes you to attain 40 new gallons of water matching temp and salinity. large tankers dont have this option, medium tankers sure do. here's invaded to fixed, in three hours work your size tank

Algae/Cyano Issue Not Improving, Help Please?

Hi all, I have a Red Sea Reefer 250 that has been up and running for 8 months now. My issue is a strange black algae\cyano growth that has plagued me for the last two months+. I have been treating as follows: cleaning gravel twice weekly 20% water changes twice a week Addition of beneficial...

www.reef2reef.com

*see how many other offers present with an after pic and a specific compliance date + future follow up

 

[Spare time]

I used something called Red X. German stuff.

I used something called Red X. German stuff.

I would first get a phosphate test, and then also consider algaefix. The reason why I mention algaefix is sometimes its spirulina (it is brownish red) and not normal red cyano. I have found spirulina to not responds to chemiclean but has dissapeared after algaefix.

Do you run any phosphate removing media?