TexAgReefer
Well-Known Member
Maybe 6 of the RS ReefLED 90s paired w/ the T5 hybrid? You have 2 so you'd only have to buy 4. That's still cheaper than buying 4 XR15s and then you have 6 lights + T5s.
This girl’s 310g peninsula dream tank with fish room!
- Large Build
- Thread starter LovesDogs_CatsRokay
- Start date
- Tagged users None
OP
OP
That's a good idea, hadn't thought of that. It might be hard to get them spaced evenly across the 2 T5 fixtures though. There will be about 8 inches on the ends and between the 2.
Would it be weird to have 2 ReefLEDs and 2 radions?
OP
OP
Drywall is up! It’s starting to look like something now!
TexAgReefer
Well-Known Member
I don’t think it’s that uncommon to have a variety of lights.
SkiCatTX
Sustainable Reefkeeping
Really awesome doors and hinges! Can’t wait to see this come together!Drywall is up! It’s starting to look like something now!
OP
OP
Took a few days off from working on the stand but we did hang up a large canvas print near the tank. It’s a picture of a sea turtle that I took in Hawaii.
OP
OP
Found my royal gramma dead and floating in my biocube yesterday. Pretty bummed. He was so pretty. Had named him Hei Hei after the rooster in Moana. Then this morning woke up to find the other fish in the tank breathing heavy. Salinity, ammonia, and temp all checked out so I did a 35% water change. They seem to breathing easier now. No idea what happened.
OP
OP
Thanks!
Rabidgoose
Active Member
Coming along nicely. Not sure if you've considered two sea swirls on a closed loop at the end farthest from the sump area. You can plumb them through the canopy (1 in each corner, with available brackets) for a clean application with no wires exposed. I'm hitting the watch button now...
OP
OP
The idea has been suggested to me before and it’s a possibility. I don’t know much about them though so I need to do some more research first.
Hollywood Corals
New Member
Where can I find those hinges? They look awesome!
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
@Fin used to run a similar setup, might be worth checking in with him for a little more info. I agree though, especially with a canopy I would definitely run returns/closed loop to the far side and down. Heck even if you ran dual returns to the far end of the tank and used dual powerheads on the overflow end that might turn out even better...
Love the progress, I do agree with what was mentioned earlier and cut the carpet out. Adding some kind of drain pan isn't a bad idea either as mentioned earlier.
U
User1
Guest
Nice updates.
Regarding Sea Swirls I may have noted them earlier but it really depends on what you are trying to do. With the canopy you have they will be pretty hidden because the tops can be a bit large depending on the size. I run a pair of 1" using random flow nozzles. As with any return fitting be aware of back flow and / or siphon in the case of a power outage. Sump sized properly it won't be an issue.
With the Sea Swirls you can swap the 90 elbow with a 45 and angle one with more downward flow and the other, if you use more than one, with surface agitation. I like them but then again you have a large tank so even something like some Gyres would work and not be an eye sore. I like the flow patterns of MP's but not a fan of the cords on the outside of the tank. Also why I didn't go with Neptune's WAV's. I'm not a huge fan of cords in the tank if I can avoid it.
Glad I caught up on the thread. Hope all is well with you and yours. Great job.
Edit: Not pushing any product - just providing the link. Apologies if it seems as if I am.
LINK:
https://www.shop.sea-swirl.com/main.sc
Regarding Sea Swirls I may have noted them earlier but it really depends on what you are trying to do. With the canopy you have they will be pretty hidden because the tops can be a bit large depending on the size. I run a pair of 1" using random flow nozzles. As with any return fitting be aware of back flow and / or siphon in the case of a power outage. Sump sized properly it won't be an issue.
With the Sea Swirls you can swap the 90 elbow with a 45 and angle one with more downward flow and the other, if you use more than one, with surface agitation. I like them but then again you have a large tank so even something like some Gyres would work and not be an eye sore. I like the flow patterns of MP's but not a fan of the cords on the outside of the tank. Also why I didn't go with Neptune's WAV's. I'm not a huge fan of cords in the tank if I can avoid it.
Glad I caught up on the thread. Hope all is well with you and yours. Great job.
Edit: Not pushing any product - just providing the link. Apologies if it seems as if I am.
LINK:
https://www.shop.sea-swirl.com/main.sc
OP
OP
Blum Aventos HK Top Pair Lift Mechanism, Power Factor 150, 450 22K2700
Shop and Save on Blum 22K2700. Minimum Door Height: 8-1/16 Inch, Maximum Door Height: 23-5/8 Inch, Door Length: 70-7/8 Inch, Maximum Door Weight: 39 Lbs
www.cabinetparts.com
OP
OP
@Fin used to run a similar setup, might be worth checking in with him for a little more info. I agree though, especially with a canopy I would definitely run returns/closed loop to the far side and down. Heck even if you ran dual returns to the far end of the tank and used dual powerheads on the overflow end that might turn out even better...
Love the progress, I do agree with what was mentioned earlier and cut the carpet out. Adding some kind of drain pan isn't a bad idea either as mentioned earlier.
Thanks guys, I will definitely do some more research on closed loops and sea swirls. My LFS guy says he has some ideas for flow too, so I'll see what he thinks. We're relying on the them to do all the plumbing.
OP
OP
Made some progress over the weekend. I primed and painted the top drywall to match the walls, so now it actually looks like part of the room. I also primed and painted the inside of the canopy doors the same blue as the wall, as you can see the inside of the opposite doors from certain viewing angles. The hope is that painting them blue makes them disappear a little more. And the front of the doors also have a layer of primer on them. The front end piece of the canopy won't be added until after the tank is in place in case anyone is wondering why that looks weird.
Tank is supposed to arrive at the LFS this week hopefully, so it won't be long until it's here!!!
Tank is supposed to arrive at the LFS this week hopefully, so it won't be long until it's here!!!
Helpful info for you maybe.
The hood will become very humid and the hinges will become rusted in no time at all.
Most hinges are not made of stainless or if they are its not high quality stainless.
The springs and pins are also not stainless on a stainless hinge.
I never did find a hinge that did not rust out in six months.
Once they start to squeak then little pieces start to flake off and guess where they go.
I had some luck coating my hinges heavily with Vaseline, but the warmth thinned it out, then it dried up and they rusted just took longer.
So then I said well fans will evacuate the humidity and that worked for a bit but then the fans started to have issues.
In the end I reworked my hood doors without hinges.
Made a wood L bracket on the top of the door so it hooked on the upper part of the cabinet frame. and installed a wood support that rested on the top of the tank.
I never looked back and never had an issue.
Every piece of wood I used received two coats of wood sealer.
The interior hood area received three coats.
This was the best thing I could have done. Now water and salt creep just wipe off.
The hood will become very humid and the hinges will become rusted in no time at all.
Most hinges are not made of stainless or if they are its not high quality stainless.
The springs and pins are also not stainless on a stainless hinge.
I never did find a hinge that did not rust out in six months.
Once they start to squeak then little pieces start to flake off and guess where they go.
I had some luck coating my hinges heavily with Vaseline, but the warmth thinned it out, then it dried up and they rusted just took longer.
So then I said well fans will evacuate the humidity and that worked for a bit but then the fans started to have issues.
In the end I reworked my hood doors without hinges.
Made a wood L bracket on the top of the door so it hooked on the upper part of the cabinet frame. and installed a wood support that rested on the top of the tank.
I never looked back and never had an issue.
Every piece of wood I used received two coats of wood sealer.
The interior hood area received three coats.
This was the best thing I could have done. Now water and salt creep just wipe off.
OP
OP
Thanks for the info, do you have a build thread? Why did the fans have issues? These particular hinges come with thick plastic covers that should help protect them. They are made of steel, but I'm not sure if it's stainless. Also hoping that the canopy being 3 - 4 tall will help disperse the humidity more than in most smaller canopies.
Similar threads
New Posts
-
First ICP Testing Results, Would Love Feedback!- Latest: txmaverickmh
-
-
