Thought and advice on this potential build?

BetterJake

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Let me know what you think? Anything I'm missing or anything I should replace?

Reefer 250 Deluxe
Redsea 300 Protein Skimmer
Syncra Silent 3.5 Pump
VorTech MP40mQD (x2)
40 lb Fiji PInk
40lb Reef Saver MacroRocks
300W Titanium Aquarium Heater System - Bulk Reef Supply
4 Stage 100GPD Ro/DI System
KIll A Watt PS-10 Power Strip
Python 25 ft No Spill Clean and Fill
RedSea Salt Mix - 55 gallons
 

ReefGeezer

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Depending on the type of corals you intend to keep, MP40's are pretty strong for a 60 Gallon Tank. A couple of small Gyre type pumps might be better. Titanium heaters are great. Make sure you get the control unit to run it. Lights?

I would not use dry rock If I were starting from scratch. Same for sand. KP Aquatics, Tampa Bay Saltwater, and others have live rock and sand cultured in the ocean. Check out my article Here to get an idea of a different way to set-up and start a reef tank.
 
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BetterJake

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Depending on the type of corals you intend to keep, MP40's are pretty strong for a 60 Gallon Tank. A couple of small Gyre type pumps might be better. Titanium heaters are great. Make sure you get the control unit to run it. Lights?

I would not use dry rock If I were starting from scratch. Same for sand. KP Aquatics, Tampa Bay Saltwater, and others have live rock and sand cultured in the ocean. Check out my article Here to get an idea of a different way to set-up and start a reef tank.
The heater I picked will come with a 'Ink Bird' controller. I was also going to go with the reefer 250 deluxe tank which comes with two ReefLED 90 lights with mounting arms, so that should set me up nicely for lighting.

Interesting on the note for live rock and sand, I assume this would cycle the tank more quickly vs dry rock.
 

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The heater I picked will come with a 'Ink Bird' controller. I was also going to go with the reefer 250 deluxe tank which comes with two ReefLED 90 lights with mounting arms, so that should set me up nicely for lighting.

Interesting on the note for live rock and sand, I assume this would cycle the tank more quickly vs dry rock.
You can establish a "cycle" now with bottled bacteria that is pretty much instant. You can do so with live rock also.

BUT...

There is a lot more to nutrient management than the simply establishing the "nitrogen cycle" that is so often discussed right now. That's why so many have problems with pest bacteria and microalgae. When employing live rock and live sand in a strategic manner, you can set up an environment where nitrogen and phosphate, in their organic and inorganic forms, are processed, used, or bound by a diverse population of microbes, plankton, small invertebrates, and other organisms. This not only manages the nutrient levels better, but also provides food for corals and even the fish in the system.

In the long term, starting a tank with live rock and sand results in the tank reaching maturity much faster. You have to get away from the one dimensional "cycling" paradigm that has been established and think in a more holistic manner though.
 
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BetterJake

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You can establish a "cycle" now with bottled bacteria that is pretty much instant. You can do so with live rock also.

BUT...

There is a lot more to nutrient management than the simply establishing the "nitrogen cycle" that is so often discussed right now. That's why so many have problems with pest bacteria and microalgae. When employing live rock and live sand in a strategic manner, you can set up an environment where nitrogen and phosphate, in their organic and inorganic forms, are processed, used, or bound by a diverse population of microbes, plankton, small invertebrates, and other organisms. This not only manages the nutrient levels better, but also provides food for corals and even the fish in the system.

In the long term, starting a tank with live rock and sand results in the tank reaching maturity much faster. You have to get away from the one dimensional "cycling" paradigm that has been established and think in a more holistic manner though.
What are you thoughts on the package from TBS? They recommend 2 lb/gallon which would be 108 pounds of rock in my 54 gallon reefer 250. That seems like way too much rock?

I do like how it's shipped in two parts with a cleanup crew as well
 

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What are you thoughts on the package from TBS? They recommend 2 lb/gallon which would be 108 pounds of rock in my 54 gallon reefer 250. That seems like way too much rock?

I do like how it's shipped in two parts with a cleanup crew as well
TBS is a great vendor. Give em' a call or use Reef2Reef to contact them. They'll have ideas for your particular needs. "The Package" is a great way to get TBS's products. You couldn't go wrong ordering it. Personally though, I would start a tank with their base rock, rubble rock, and live sand and add some premium rock and clean up crew later.

Base live rock isn't as pretty as premium rock. It has microbial and other life the tank needs to get started though. The looks will improve as the Coralline algae, sponges, and other stuff it carries start to grow. The rock is kind of dense so it take more than it took using old school live rock, but we don't build rock wall aquascapes like we used to, so less is required. I'd probably start with about 50-60 lbs of base live rock which I'd put in the display tank. The live sand from TBS is not the fine, snowy white sand you might envision for your display but it is packed with life and very valuable. You can mix the live sand with plain old Carib Sea Special Grade sand to get a good look if you want to put some in the display tank. I would put a lot of sand and the rubble rock in the refugium section in the sump. I would put live sand and live rubble rock in the sumps refugium and keep it in the dark. That'll grow pods like you wouldn't believe. I don't know how much sand and rubble rock you will need. The guys at TBS will help you figure that out. Like I said, They're great.
 

LiverockRocks

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You can establish a "cycle" now with bottled bacteria that is pretty much instant. You can do so with live rock also.

BUT...

There is a lot more to nutrient management than the simply establishing the "nitrogen cycle" that is so often discussed right now. That's why so many have problems with pest bacteria and microalgae. When employing live rock and live sand in a strategic manner, you can set up an environment where nitrogen and phosphate, in their organic and inorganic forms, are processed, used, or bound by a diverse population of microbes, plankton, small invertebrates, and other organisms. This not only manages the nutrient levels better, but also provides food for corals and even the fish in the system.

In the long term, starting a tank with live rock and sand results in the tank reaching maturity much faster. You have to get away from the one dimensional "cycling" paradigm that has been established and think in a more holistic manner though.
Well said!!!
 

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What are you thoughts on the package from TBS? They recommend 2 lb/gallon which would be 108 pounds of rock in my 54 gallon reefer 250. That seems like way too much rock?

I do like how it's shipped in two parts with a cleanup crew as well
Howdy,
Keep in mind that all rock does not need to be in the display, it can go in the sump/refugium, too.
  • Many of our customers will purchase a slightly smaller Package and then add sand up to the correct amount of 1lb per gallon.
  • Or they will purchase 1lb per gallon of live sand, 1lb per gallon of base rock and then add rubble to their sump. After the tank cycles, they add a few pieces of premium.
@ReefGeezer summed it up perfectly:
"There is a lot more to nutrient management than the simply establishing the "nitrogen cycle" that is so often discussed right now. That's why so many have problems with pest bacteria and microalgae. When employing live rock and live sand in a strategic manner, you can set up an environment where nitrogen and phosphate, in their organic and inorganic forms, are processed, used, or bound by a diverse population of microbes, plankton, small invertebrates, and other organisms. This not only manages the nutrient levels better, but also provides food for corals and even the fish in the system.
In the long term, starting a tank with live rock and sand results in the tank reaching maturity much faster. You have to get away from the one dimensional "cycling" paradigm that has been established and think in a more holistic manner though."
 
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BetterJake

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Howdy,
Keep in mind that all rock does not need to be in the display, it can go in the sump/refugium, too.
  • Many of our customers will purchase a slightly smaller Package and then add sand up to the correct amount of 1lb per gallon.
  • Or they will purchase 1lb per gallon of live sand, 1lb per gallon of base rock and then add rubble to their sump. After the tank cycles, they add a few pieces of premium.
@ReefGeezer summed it up perfectly:
"There is a lot more to nutrient management than the simply establishing the "nitrogen cycle" that is so often discussed right now. That's why so many have problems with pest bacteria and microalgae. When employing live rock and live sand in a strategic manner, you can set up an environment where nitrogen and phosphate, in their organic and inorganic forms, are processed, used, or bound by a diverse population of microbes, plankton, small invertebrates, and other organisms. This not only manages the nutrient levels better, but also provides food for corals and even the fish in the system.
In the long term, starting a tank with live rock and sand results in the tank reaching maturity much faster. You have to get away from the one dimensional "cycling" paradigm that has been established and think in a more holistic manner though."
Thanks so much for the comment and tips. I'm leaning towards the second option, really looking forward to ordering once I'm ready. Thanks so much!
 

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What are you thoughts on the package from TBS? They recommend 2 lb/gallon which would be 108 pounds of rock in my 54 gallon reefer 250. That seems like way too much rock?

I do like how it's shipped in two parts with a cleanup crew as well


Hi there, sorry if this was mentioned earlier (couldn't read all posts) but I noticed your comment " that seems like too much rock" I personally set up a couple new tanks and like the lighter rock look but as we know rock provides a good surface for beneficials, I placed some bio bricks (like bio balls ect) to get more surface space without actually taking up a lot of space. Just something to look into maybe.
 

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Hi there, sorry if this was mentioned earlier (couldn't read all posts) but I noticed your comment " that seems like too much rock" I personally set up a couple new tanks and like the lighter rock look but as we know rock provides a good surface for beneficials, I placed some bio bricks (like bio balls ect) to get more surface space without actually taking up a lot of space. Just something to look into maybe.
Unfortunately, most rock is man-made now and then placed in the ocean to culture. It is heavier. It takes more weight to fill the same space.
 
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BetterJake

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Howdy,
Keep in mind that all rock does not need to be in the display, it can go in the sump/refugium, too.
  • Many of our customers will purchase a slightly smaller Package and then add sand up to the correct amount of 1lb per gallon.
  • Or they will purchase 1lb per gallon of live sand, 1lb per gallon of base rock and then add rubble to their sump. After the tank cycles, they add a few pieces of premium.
@ReefGeezer summed it up perfectly:
"There is a lot more to nutrient management than the simply establishing the "nitrogen cycle" that is so often discussed right now. That's why so many have problems with pest bacteria and microalgae. When employing live rock and live sand in a strategic manner, you can set up an environment where nitrogen and phosphate, in their organic and inorganic forms, are processed, used, or bound by a diverse population of microbes, plankton, small invertebrates, and other organisms. This not only manages the nutrient levels better, but also provides food for corals and even the fish in the system.
In the long term, starting a tank with live rock and sand results in the tank reaching maturity much faster. You have to get away from the one dimensional "cycling" paradigm that has been established and think in a more holistic manner though."
As far as preparing for the arrival of the rock and sand. Would you recommend filling the tank prior to it's arrival? I'm just trying to figure out how much to fill it up due to water displacement from the rock and sand that would go in after.
 

LiverockRocks

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As far as preparing for the arrival of the rock and sand. Would you recommend filling the tank prior to it's arrival? I'm just trying to figure out how much to fill it up due to water displacement from the rock and sand that would go in after.
Definitely have the tank full of water and functioning...preferably a couple days so you can address any issue that may arise. (Leaking bulkheads, missing parts, etc)

Ocean products shipped submerged require life support upon arrival.

In regards to displacement of water, there are a lot of variables. Have a couple 5 gallon buckets or a rolling Brute handy for siphoning off extra water. Extra water can be used for water changes.
 

LiverockRocks

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Unfortunately, most rock is man-made now and then placed in the ocean to culture. It is heavier. It takes more weight to fill the same space.
We have both man made Walt Smith and inherited rock planted 30 yrs ago.
(Bahamian coral stone, Philippine rock, Florida quarried).
 

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The rock I got from Gulf Live rock is very porous, 10lbs three nice pieces, much lighter than one dead piece I got from LFS.
I transshipped and sold Fiji Rock straight off the reef back in the early 80's. That rock was really light. If you haven't seen it and held it in your hands, you can't understand the weight difference. But it sold for $8 or 9 per pound way back then! That's like what... $25 per pound, or more, in today's money? I also sold "Gulf" rock. It was heavier. I think it weighed about the same as what we get from TBS today. It's not unacceptably "heavy". It is just not as light as the old stuff that came from Indonesia. The price these guys charge now, in today's money, is much more reasonable than mine back in the day... and... the rock you get is in better shape than the shipped in wet newspaper stuff I could sell back then.
 

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