Time to get serious...what size sump can I get away with

Weasel1960

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I have been here a couple months now asking questions but it’s time to step it up a notch. Looks like I may be getting a free 180 g (6x2x2) for my one and only build. Will be verifying floor structure this weekend. My question however is the sump size.

This tank will actually be divided as 1/3 (Seahorse) & 2/3 (fish) so I need to fit 2 complete systems into one stand, including controls, equipment drawers, etc. What would be the minimum sump (with refugium) recommendations for the main tank. I am thinking a 29 g or 30 cube.

I am thinking medium bio load, couple of large fish, pair of clowns some schoolers, gobies and cubs along with varied softies, LPS, and maybe SPS later on.

For the Seahorse side I am considering installing a Fuji AIO on that side and/or using a canister. Thoughts on that? Again medium bioload with 2-4 ponies, pipe fish, allowed cups and allowed corals.
 

xxkenny90xx

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Definitely squeeze the biggest sumps you can down there. Whats your plan for keeping the warm temp on the fish side from leeching into the cooler seahorse water?
 
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Weasel1960

Weasel1960

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Definitely squeeze the biggest sumps you can down there. Whats your plan for keeping the warm temp on the fish side from leeching into the cooler seahorse water?
Did a thread on this a couple of weeks ago. Best suggestion was 2 panes of glass with an air gap between. Probably 3/8 glass and gap.
 

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On my 225 upgrade I went with a Bashsea ss-48 sump. I could have went with a ss-60, but I wanted some space under the stand to fit other things in there.
 

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Just curious, seems like it might be easier to get a smallish separate cube tank for the seahorses. I honestly don’t know much about keeping them, I am a coral and fish guy, but seems complicated to keep 2 separate systems running from a single sump.
 
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Weasel1960

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Just curious, seems like it might be easier to get a smallish separate cube tank for the seahorses. I honestly don’t know much about keeping them, I am a coral and fish guy, but seems complicated to keep 2 separate systems running from a single sump.
Thanks for the suggestion, this was an early consideration but needed a min. 30 g by 17 tall for a single pair, want more than 2. Am working with limited floor space so having 2 tanks with space in between was taking up a lot of extra space...

The 180 is free and in really good condition. Splitting it gives me about a 120 main tank and a 60 Seahorse tank which gives me the best all around options.
 
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Weasel1960

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no sump for the seahorse tank? how's that work? no filtration for that side of the tank?
Hi main thread thinking of either a canister that comes with tank or installing an AIO on that side, least favorite is another sump in the stand. Leaning towards the AIO from Fuji. What do you think?
 

Brett S

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Did a thread on this a couple of weeks ago. Best suggestion was 2 panes of glass with an air gap between. Probably 3/8 glass and gap.

I haven’t seen the other thread, so maybe you already considered this, but structurally a single piece of glass between two bodies of water would be very different than two pieces of glass with an air gap. If there is a single piece of glass then when both tanks are full the forces from the two bodies of water will be acting against each other and the glass and silicone holding it won’t be under much stress. But as soon as you go to two pieces of glass with an air gap then both pieces of glass and that silicon will be under just as much stress as the sides of your tank holding back all that water. The glass will need to be at least as thick as your tank sides (which may be 3/8, depending on the height of the tank) and you will need to make sure that the silicon is not only water tight, but also structurally sound.
 
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Weasel1960

Weasel1960

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I haven’t seen the other thread, so maybe you already considered this, but structurally a single piece of glass between two bodies of water would be very different than two pieces of glass with an air gap. If there is a single piece of glass then when both tanks are full the forces from the two bodies of water will be acting against each other and the glass and silicone holding it won’t be under much stress. But as soon as you go to two pieces of glass with an air gap then both pieces of glass and that silicon will be under just as much stress as the sides of your tank holding back all that water. The glass will need to be at least as thick as your tank sides (which may be 3/8, depending on the height of the tank) and you will need to make sure that the silicon is not only water tight, but also structurally sound.
Good points. No not discussed in previous thread but that’s why I thought at least 3/8. Could also bridge the gap with small pieces or egg crate. Either way point noted, thank you.
 

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Hi main thread thinking of either a canister that comes with tank or installing an AIO on that side, least favorite is another sump in the stand. Leaning towards the AIO from Fuji. What do you think?
I'm still trying to wrap my head around the whole project. :)
I admit to no knowledge on sea horses, aside from you want low flow. temp to me is a non issue as others have stated you can run a reef tank at lower temps.

you need to start a build thread. I've got some other thoughts on the overall idea, but don't want to stray off topic here.
:cool:
 
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Weasel1960

Weasel1960

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I'm still trying to wrap my head around the whole project. :)
I admit to no knowledge on sea horses, aside from you want low flow. temp to me is a non issue as others have stated you can run a reef tank at lower temps.

you need to start a build thread. I've got some other thoughts on the overall idea, but don't want to stray off topic here.
:cool:
Pm me I am open to other thoughts. Based on Seahorse info I have gathered flow can be higher than old school thought but higher temps invite health problems. They also arent quick swimmers so that is another reason for keeping in a separate tank.
 
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