Tired of flooding your kitchen, garage, or bathroom?

[Sod Buster]

It was in sleep mode then, no light on. I just got done filling the missing gallon and the light went to solid green. I flipped the power strip switch and everything took off out of standby mode. You should be ok cycling as long as it never enters sleep mode.

 

[Sod Buster]

To clarify: as long as it is in standby mode & wants water, the solenoid opens & rodi fires up. I just confirmed by flicking my power strip switch on & off multiple times.

 

[Sod Buster]

 

[427HISS]

I've been thinking of either buying a nice condition Apex or now, I found this thread about this system.
It's great that this is just a plug and play for my skimmer, water change, anti-flooding and temp warnings.
I'll need to figure costs of both.

 

[Sod Buster]

Just for rodi

I've been thinking of either buying a nice condition Apex or now, I found this thread about this system.
It's great that this is just a plug and play for my skimmer, water change, anti-flooding and temp warnings.
I'll need to figure costs of both.

 

[427HISS]

Oh, ok. I was looking at AutoAqua for my skimmer and temp, then this for flooding.
Thank you.

 

[Robert@MD]

So, reading about this.. It appears it will fill, then goes into standby mode... So once the level drops, it wont make water again automatically? You will have to either push the button, or power cycle it?

Yes, once the sensor is triggered and the unit goes into Standby, you would need to power cycle it (timer) or press the button manually to allow for it to fill again. This power cycle can be done remotely using a "smart" socket or aquarium controller. Using a classic wall timer is also an excellent option and the unit will simply automatically fill based on the times you set. Personally, I would probably use a wiFi socket or controller so I could just turn it on a few hours prior to water change or ATO refill time.

-Robert @ MD

 

[dburg30]

Yes, once the sensor is triggered and the unit goes into Standby, you would need to power cycle it (timer) or press the button manually to allow for it to fill again. This power cycle can be done remotely using a "smart" socket or aquarium controller. Using a classic wall timer is also an excellent option and the unit will simply automatically fill based on the times you set. Personally, I would probably use a wiFi socket or controller so I could just turn it on a few hours prior to water change or ATO refill time.

-Robert @ MD

Ordered one from you folks Friday... Now just waiting for it to ship after an address question...

 

[MarineDepot]

Ordered one from you folks Friday... Now just waiting for it to ship after an address question...

Thank you for choosing MD!

Jeff @ Marine Depot

 

[Sod Buster]

I discovered w/ mine that I need a low pressure switch plumbed in after the aqua fx shut off solenoid to make my booster pump shut off. Open circuit under 10 psi should work I think.

 

[Sod Buster]

this switch and a tee controls my booster pump for rodi. I'm automated now. Xp aqua solenoid after carbon block, before membrane. This switch replaced the 40psi float switch for the boost pump and is before the DI cartridges. Sweet, push a button & go to work!

 

[135zman]

Robert- question regarding p3 of instructions for either of the two set up options (a) without shut off or (b) with shut off. What are the “locking clips” that I am supposed to take off before connecting the tubing and then reinstall the clips? I’ve watched 3 videos and I don’t see anyone removing a locking clip just pushing the RO tubing into the solenoid on both side like Murlock fittings. I don’t see any removable locking clips labeled in p3 diagram either.

 

[Sod Buster]

They are the blue things in my last pic. I didn't get any in my kit. Just push the line in 3/4" and a light tug back to seat the line.

 

[Robert@MD]

These are simply the little C shaped clips that are sometimes included with RO fittings. They are designed to ensure the RO tubing stays securely in place by keeping the white collar in position.

You remove the clips before pushing the RO tube into the RO fitting. Once you push the tube into the fitting pull back slightly to ensure a good fit, then attach the clip around the plastic collar that holds your tube. The picture @Sod Buster posted above shows the clips, they are blue and shaped like a C in the picture he posted.

You can check out the replacement pack we sell on the website below.
https://mdshop.us/2SUknOu

-Robert @ MD

 

[135zman]

Thank you. It appears the blue clips in the picture came with the “t” connector that was added into the system setup rather than clips on the solenoid that came with the kit. Wonder why the product directions refer to removing the locking clips when it didn’t come with any clips?

 

[Sod Buster]

I don't know why they didn't come with it. I reviewed page 3 and see where it says that. They are a safety feature, you have to pull pretty hard to get the line out of the fitting without pushing down the collar anyway. I didn't use them on my solenoid. Put it together and order the clips

to stick in later.

 

[135zman]

I don't know why they didn't come with it. I reviewed page 3 and see where it says that. They are a safety feature, you have to pull pretty hard to get the line out of the fitting without pushing down the collar anyway. I didn't use them on my solenoid. Put it together and order the clips

to stick in later.

I set it up and I'm in process of filling Brute can with RO water. Is it normal for the solenoid to feel warm to almost hot? Running only cold water through it, but it is definitely warm. I hope that is normal.

 

[Sod Buster]

Yes. That is the electricity holding the solenoid open.

 

[135zman]

Yes. That is the electricity holding the solenoid open.

Thank you.

 

[xxblackatlasxx]

Would this unit be suitable for me? I have the more compact Aquatic Life Twist-in 100 GPD system and there isnt much tubing between the filters. Can I install this after the system and before the bucket?