Torch Coral is bumpy and lumpy

troutman

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I have had this torch for almost 2 months now, in the video you can see my micromussa which is loving life.
Param: (only basic)
ph 8.2
nitrate 20 ppm
nitrite ~0
amm 0
RODI, TDS still 0
25% water change every week
Red Sea Coral Pro
IMG_20210222_182559.jpg

IMG_20210222_182558.jpg


Video:
 
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troutman

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What is your KH, Ca, Mg and salinity and are they stable?
I do not have those parameters, I do not dose, I change water once a week with red sea pro which should result in a pretty stable set of parameters regardless. Salinity is always stable, running ato (rodi water of course).
 

georgeburt

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That is just salt. Whatever parameters that are on the bucket of your salt, are completely different to YOUR specific water parameters. If you want to keep coral, you will need to dose, even if it’s manually. Different tanks consume different parameters differently. This also means no fluctuations.
 
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G’day mate! With only 2 corals and no coralline algae growth you can certainly keep up parameters with water changes for a while. In saying that it is a big advantage to know where the big three parameters are. The parameters I consider a must to know is phosphate and alk. What lights are you running? Are you using gfo or carbon dosing? Sometimes torches and soft corals benefit for supplement feeding.
 
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troutman

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G’day mate! With only 2 corals and no coralline algae growth you can certainly keep up parameters with water changes for a while. In saying that it is a big advantage to know where the big three parameters are. The parameters I consider a must to know is phosphate and alk. What lights are you running? Are you using gfo or carbon dosing? Sometimes torches and soft corals benefit for supplement feeding.
I feed once a week with mix of reef chili and mysis, I am running prime 16 hd, using brs lps rec. Settings, as for phosphate and silica control I have a bag of carbon but otherwise I try to feed minimally and on the same time everyday
 

redeyejedi

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I do not have those parameters, I do not dose, I change water once a week with red sea pro which should result in a pretty stable set of parameters regardless. Salinity is always stable, running ato (rodi water of course).
I use coral pro as well and keep a lot of torches, the salt wont keep things stable. I dont dose either but i have to put fresh salt mix in every 2 days to keep up with alk demand.
 

Gtinnel

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From what I have been reading online it seems, as though I do not need to dose yet seeing as I have only two small corals.
I agree that there is a decent chance that water changes may keep up with alk/calcium demand if you only have two small frags, its still better to know. Everyone is asking what your alkalinity level is because when it comes to stony corals it is one of the most important parameters. Figuring out why a coral is unhappy is hard enough with knowing all of the important parameters, and without them it is almost impossible.
If you are planning on continuing with this hobby and getting more corals, you will eventually want to get a test for alk/calcium/mag. It's hard to be successful in this hobby when only guessing what your parameters are.
 

RobertTheNurse

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I have had this torch for almost 2 months now, in the video you can see my micromussa which is loving life.
Param: (only basic)
ph 8.2
nitrate 20 ppm
nitrite ~0
amm 0
RODI, TDS still 0
25% water change every week
Red Sea Coral Pro
IMG_20210222_182559.jpg

IMG_20210222_182558.jpg


Video:
How long has the tank been running for? I'm just about to get into dosing, my phos is 0 and alk 7.1...my new torch loving life. Anything you noticed on the stem? Did you dip? What test kits are you using? Where in the tank is the coral placed? Did you acclimate? Did you test the store water?
 
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troutman

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I use coral pro as well and keep a lot of torches, the salt wont keep things stable. I dont dose either but i have to put fresh salt mix in every 2 days to keep up with alk demand.
This is good to know, is instant ocean better in this sense?
How big is your tank?
25 Gal, p04 is 0
I agree that there is a decent chance that water changes may keep up with alk/calcium demand if you only have two small frags, its still better to know. Everyone is asking what your alkalinity level is because when it comes to stony corals it is one of the most important parameters. Figuring out why a coral is unhappy is hard enough with knowing all of the important parameters, and without them it is almost impossible.
If you are planning on continuing with this hobby and getting more corals, you will eventually want to get a test for alk/calcium/mag. It's hard to be successful in this hobby when only guessing what your parameters are.
Gotcha, can you recommend a test kit?
How long has the tank been running for? I'm just about to get into dosing, my phos is 0 and alk 7.1...my new torch loving life. Anything you noticed on the stem? Did you dip? What test kits are you using? Where in the tank is the coral placed? Did you acclimate? Did you test the store water?
3 Months, I stated parameters above, nothing on stem, Dipped, api master ( i know already), it is in med/flow that is not the issue, par is within range, yup drip, nope and even if I did that was a couple months ago
 

Philly Reefer

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This is good to know, is instant ocean better in this sense?

25 Gal, p04 is 0

Gotcha, can you recommend a test kit?

3 Months, I stated parameters above, nothing on stem, Dipped, api master ( i know already), it is in med/flow that is not the issue, par is within range, yup drip, nope and even if I did that was a couple months ago

I would suggest a better test kit. Here are what I use:
  • Hanna Alkalinity
  • Hanna ULR Phosphorus
  • Nyos Nitrate
  • Redsea Calcium
  • Aquaforest Magnesium
If you want all in one test kit. Buy RedSea. Hopefully you can differenciate the slightly shade of pink better than I do.

Phosphate should not be 0. But if you are using API to test, it might not be correct. Hence I suggest Hanna Ultralow Phosphorus test.

Your tank is small enough where you can probably get away with just weekly water change. But at some point, where you have more corals, then you will need to dose alk& calcium. Specially if you want lps.
 

Darren in Tacoma

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Definitely ALK is the place to start. It is not just keeping it at the level you want, but more importantly, keeping it from fluctuating. Alk does not need to be consumed by a tank full of corals to drop. It does need to be monitored, daily by some people, maybe every 2-3 days at least if you have unhappy corals.
 
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troutman

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Sorry I am working, no clue what phosphate is mistook for ammonia, that's what I was saying it's a small tank I do everything on schedule and always change the water everyweek, my ph is on point and my micromussa is very happy insane colors and feeders out; is the torch just genetically ******, or has anyone seen this before and fixed it?
 
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troutman

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Weird shaped tentacles, crooked, bulgy, lump bumpy, everything lol, but no brown jelly no bleaching, no pests, my inverts don't bother and neither do my clowns
 

Philly Reefer

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Sorry I am working, no clue what phosphate is mistook for ammonia, that's what I was saying it's a small tank I do everything on schedule and always change the water everyweek, my ph is on point and my micromussa is very happy insane colors and feeders out; is the torch just genetically ******, or has anyone seen this before and fixed it?

Sometimes we don't know why the coral is not happy in the tank. I know some people that cannot keep GSP alive but his LPS are thriving.
1 other reefer cant keep some zoas but some other type of zoa is good. On my tank, my blasto wellsi is doing very well and puffing out good. BUT my blasto merletti is just living.. I don't see any growth at all.

That's why we need those parameters to start. I just got my ICP test and found out that my tank has a high tin and aluminium levels. Maybe that's why my favia, war coral, and candy are dead. But my zoas are triving, able to frags couple of them. My torch and hammers are looking pretty good.
 
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