Torn about QT’ing

Letterkenny

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For my main DT, I followed the Humblefish rigorous QT protocol for all my fish going in there. However, a couple months down the road I noticed what could be ick on my blue tang despite these treatments. I didn’t end up pulling but fed food soaked in selcon and it went away after two days. While I don’t know for certain it was ick, that is disheartening to hear given my QT I did. My thought would be that it came in through corals or inverts which I ultimately do not have the capacity or setups to QT nor is it very practical. That said, is it worth QT’ing preventatively if I cannot QT inverts and corals or am I better off buying from a DD which has some minimal safeguards in there? Does it even matter if I may have ick living in the tank (potentially, not sure what the actual issue was) if I dont plan on letting it go fallow for the current inhabitant?
 

Jon Fishman

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How big of a tank? I know my tank has ick..... saw it on several fish, moved them from tank to tank...... I still drop new fish, including a Gem tang and new clown, and wrasse, and whatever else, and lost no fish, see no signs of ick.


I like disease management...... fish don’t come from a sterile environment.

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Letterkenny

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How big of a tank? I know my tank has ick..... saw it on several fish, moved them from tank to tank...... I still drop new fish, including a Gem tang and new clown, and wrasse, and whatever else, and lost no fish, see no signs of ick.


I like disease management...... fish don’t come from a sterile environment.

03886BC9-FAA7-45A2-84F9-E009B01C0E77.gif
48”x24”x22”. Do you run UV?
Love the gif, always like meeting fellow residents of Letterkenny.
 

Jon Fishman

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High end UV or a cheapo from Amazon? Been thinking of running that in the tank.

Aqua UV. I have four of the 25w’s

 

HuduVudu

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Solid biodiversity and good gas exchange ensure that even if your fish do get sick they can quickly recover. More and more I find that QT is more of a detriment than any kind of help.

My 2 cents.
 

Cbones1979

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Solid biodiversity and good gas exchange ensure that even if your fish do get sick they can quickly recover. More and more I find that QT is more of a detriment than any kind of help.

My 2 cents.
Think my small clown gobi has it. I have 4 other fish. Tank is 5 months old. Any suggestions?
 

Cbones1979

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Clown gobi
 

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HuduVudu

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Think my small clown gobi has it. I have 4 other fish. Tank is 5 months old. Any suggestions?
LOL my clown gobi gets it too. My 20g has really poor circulation and the clown gobi gets one spot near his tail when I don't get it straight.

I corrected gas exchange on my 20g by using a protien skimmer and dealing with my indoor air quality issues. I found that the skimmer was stripping the tank of nutrients to so I started using a pump that only pushes bubbles. It skims the top of the tank of the DOC film and adds a little bit of gas exchange through the bubbles. I have it on my Apex so it comes on in intervals. I think about 10 times a day for 2 minutes. It is not an ideal solution but without completely disrupting the tank it works. I also keep the fish load way down. My build thread has my new tank on it and the gas exchange on it is what I would consider ideal. You can see pics of how it is set up.

My Clown Gobi is pretty good about getting into the rocks to sleep so that isn't stressor for him. My butterflys are a different story and I have to cover their tank to get my Pakistani to sleep.

If you get your gas exchange dealt with then work on getting biodiversity in your tank with some sort of live rock addition. Indo Pacific Sea farms has packages to help if you don't want to do live rock. The biodiversity makes it tough for the parasites if they leave the fish, and with ich they have to. IMO the competition will destroy most of the spores that make it off the fish.

I also feed white worms these seems help. Paul B. says it's good for their gut. Maybe that is true maybe not but the fish like them and they seem to be nutritious. Does seem to keep the crap at bay.

Hope this helps.
 

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