Transferring never QT'd fish via TTM

Radman73

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The fish have never shown signs of intestinal worms or flukes. The TTM was mainly to ensure they aren't transporting ich. Is it worth treating them with Prazi? It's two ocellaris clowns and an orange back fairy wrasse(Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis). The clowns have been with me for over 7 years and the wrasse for 3 years.

I'd hate to cause undue stress and lose any of them but I also want to start the 225 with a clean slate.
 

Big G

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Are these three fish survivors from a previous tank? Can you give us some background about their prior surroundings?
 

justinm

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I treat everything prophylactically and being that flukes are so common, I would. This way you know for sure they don't have flukes, it's an easy treatment for piece of mind.

Some wrasses are sensitive to prazi, so keep an eye out for this and make sure to aerate the water very well.
 
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Radman73

Radman73

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Are these three fish survivors from a previous tank? Can you give us some background about their prior surroundings?

Wouldn't label them as survivors. We moved from GA to FL about 18 months ago. These fish were the only 3 that I kept for the move, the rest being sold or given away. I'm simply upgrading from a 60 cube to a 225 and want to TTM them to ensure they don't have ich and that ich doesn't get into the 225.

I have no reason to suspect flukes or any internal parasites. Given that praziquantel is largely reef safe, I question the need to do it on years old fish that have been under constant care and supervision. My orange back stresses out easy as it is. In fact, I just moved the 3 to the first tank and, predictably, it's on the bottom of the aquarium refusing to move.

I am willing to do praziquantel prophylactically, but I'm going to need to be convinced lol!

I treat everything prophylactically and being that flukes are so common, I would. This way you know for sure they don't have flukes, it's an easy treatment for piece of mind.

Some wrasses are sensitive to prazi, so keep an eye out for this and make sure to aerate the water very well.

Water is aerated very well. HOB filter running and a 240gph koralia pointed at the surface. This is in a 10gal tank. I guess my question is would flukes have presented themselves by now, especially with several tank moves, with one lasting almost 12 hours, already? I would think the stress of those moves would have caused flukes to be more apparent before now. The bolded part is my main concern. I already have a wrasse that stresses easily.

And before any ask, yes, a screen cover is on it.
 

justinm

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I've only had one wrasse ever react poorly. I think she had some underlying issues though.

Flukes should have shown up for sure. You could always FW dip one of your fish to confirm.
 
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Radman73

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I've only had one wrasse ever react poorly. I think she had some underlying issues though.

Flukes should have shown up for sure. You could always FW dip one of your fish to confirm.

I used it on an H. Chrysus without issue. But that was after I started to QT fish. I suppose I could FW dip one of the clowns on the next transfer and see if anything comes off.
 

LJLKRL05

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^^ This; if no flukes show up during the FW dip then proceed with just TTM.
What if flukes do show up in fw dip? Would the fw dip kill them all or is it necessary to treat the fish for flukes some other way after the fw dip?
 

Humblefish

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What if flukes do show up in fw dip? Would the fw dip kill them all or is it necessary to treat the fish for flukes some other way after the fw dip?

As mentioned above, a FW dip is unlikely to force all the flukes off a fish so followup treatment using Prazipro is still needed.

Thank you for the confirmation! FW dip it will be at next transfer for one of the clowns.

Safe to assume that all would have it or should I FW dip all three?

Odds are if one has it, they all have it. However, FW dipping all three would increase the chances of definitively confirming whether or not flukes are present.
 
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Radman73

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Alright, FW dip complete. Wrasse freaked out and went motionless on the bottom. Then it started trying to jump out before going motionless again. All told, it spent a minimum of 3 and max of 5 minutes in the FW dip. Clowns spent the same amount of time and took it like champs.

Wrasse is in the second tank now hiding in some PVC after laying motionless again on the bottom of the tank. This seems to be par for the course for him so not overly worried.

As for the FW dip results, there are certainly small things down in the bottom of the bucket. Some, relatively, large things and some very small things. A Home Depot orange bucket was the darkest I had and it's hard to tell what anything is. I think I'll drain most of the water out and pour the contents of the bottom into a darker container. I refuse to tell my wife that I'm considering the use of one of her nice pots.

Given that there was anything that came off of them I'll treat them with prazipro once the wrasse gets back to normal.

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement and advice.
 
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Radman73

Radman73

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Upon further inspection, nothing looked like flukes. It was actually flake food of all things. I must have either dropped some in by accident when I was feeding the fish or some stuck to the thermometer probe when I measured the FW temp. I'm guessing the former.

And as soon as I type no flukes the wrasse comes out of hibernation lol!

Actually, just figured it out. I dumped some of the water from the HOB filter in to match the PH as much as possible and the cover had some flake food stuck to it. So, mystery solved, and no flukes.
 

LJLKRL05

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I bought my own set of plastic containers and glass measuring cup to use with my tank.
My wife hates when I try to use out stuff in the kitchen.
 

4FordFamily

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As a word of caution -- clowns and wrasse are often able to fight velvet and show no symptoms. They're some of the most common "typhoid marys". I'd use copper, personally. Easier, treats more ailments, and less risky, IMO
 
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Radman73

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As a word of caution -- clowns and wrasse are often able to fight velvet and show no symptoms. They're some of the most common "typhoid marys". I'd use copper, personally. Easier, treats more ailments, and less risky, IMO

If these were new fish, yes. I've had these fish for years with several other types of fish. Tang, gobies, and blennies, and probably one or two more that I'm not thinking of that I think would have shown symptoms of velvet. Plus, I believe the stress of several moves would have made velvet apparent as well.
 

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