Triton or no triton?” Tank setup.?’s

Dmat21

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Is the Neptune Triton really necessary I mean I get why it tests multiple times a day, but to keep up with re-buying those expensive reagents seems draining and overkill... I mean I am a quadriplegic and seeking a low maintenance and hands-free approach to my reefing hobby but still I’m not rich lol
Definitely going with at least the Apex and the DOS from Neptune should I just buy calcium, alkalinity, magnesium Hannah checkers?
Think I’m gonna do the two-part Pharma by BRS
can I hook up the Neptune Auto water top off directly to the RO/DI Set up, that would be sweet?

overall as well I’m confused on what equipment that I’m actually going to need to cycle up the tank when do I implement protein skimmer and any other equipment Etc..?

not quite sure yet either What way I’m going to cycle the tank yet

but first as the equipment comes in I still have to build Aquascape and plumb the sump up to the tank. Any suggestions on anything I must have for plumbing??

thanks!!
 

DC Reefer

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Lots of questions in your post.

Neptune Trident - not necessary - I would put as a nice to have . I have two of them. To me it is an early warning system to make sure ALK doesn't get out of wack. On 1 tank w/ a calcium reactor I use it to monitor. On another tank I am using it to control dosing my 2 part (CA and ALK). I know that personally I can get lazy around testing and this helps to keep things under control. Also like I can monitor when away for a few weeks at at time.

Testing - I like Hanna for ALK and Phosphate (UL). I use salifert for MG and Red Sea for CA. Also use Red Sea for Nitrate

For the auto top off I use Tunze and have the pumps directly in my containers I make the RO water in, so that should work for Neptune also.

When I cycle a tank I use live bacteria to get a faster cycle and I run the return and powerheads for the first week and then turn on the skimmer. I also put a frozen shrimp in the tank to help the cycle and I run carbon to eliminate the shrimp smell.

For plumbing it depends if you are using an internal return pump or an external. If internal I would put one ball valve with a union so you can tune the volume of water returning to the display. If external return pump I would use two ball valves, one before the pump and one after the pump so you can totally isolate the pump for maintenance or swapping out a new pump. Also think about adding a manifold if you plan to run anything else off of your return pump (UV, reactors, etc...).

Also make sure your sump it large enough to handle a power outage without overflowing. To test just fill the tank and the sump to your planned operating level and turn off the return pump and make sure the sump doesn't overflow.

Best of luck on your build and looking forward to seeing picture of the process.
 

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