Triton results; high Sn, Ni, Mo and V

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I would take action, but it’s impossible to know how much of a problem it is since tin takes several different forms with different toxicity, and ICP cannot distinguish them. It also makes potentially reducing it trickier without knowing the form, but I’d try something like metasorb, cuprisorb, etc. (or see what others are most successful with)

 

[Robinreefs94]

I would take action, but it’s impossible to know how much of a problem it is since tin takes several different forms with different toxicity, and ICP cannot distinguish them. It also makes potentially reducing it trickier without knowing the form, but I’d try something like metasorb, cuprisorb, etc. (or see what others are most successful with)

Okey well then I will look into that. And you don't think that water changes will have any effect? In my greatest belief I did a 30% water change today to maybe achieve some form of balancing.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Definitely can’t hurt!

 

[SashimiTurtle]

Update... been a while.

I did the water changes as prescribed by Triton and inspected all my equipment. Everything looks fine. No corrosion or rust, yet the tank has continued to be a pain and corals either just immediately die, or slowly fade over time. I have come to the conclusion that my RODI filter is passing some heavy metals and they have been building up in my tank since October. TDS meter still shows 0ppm, but I have recently learned that TDS doesn't really mean a whole lot, well how a conductivity meter detects TDS. Every water change and top off increases the concentration that much more. I have no solid proof of this, I've just ruled out every other possibility I can think of. Unless I have a gremlin in my house dosing my tank with nickel... all rock has been changed out since starting, my sand is a dry(well was, it's wet now) inert silica, all pumps and powerheads have been inspected.

New DI resin just came in today, and I plan on mixing up enough water for at least a 50% water change. There's not much coral surviving to shock, and my fish are hardy and can handle a small swing. The tank parameters are lined up with my salt mix anyway so there shouldn't be any swing at all, just a downward trend in heavy metal concentration.

Wish me luck, this has been one 5 month long nightmare.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

If you suspect your RO/DI unit, you may want to try ATI's ICP test. It's not only $10 cheaper and includes postage, but they also include a third vial for testing your RO/DI water.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

TDS meter still shows 0ppm, but I have recently learned that TDS doesn't really mean a whole lot, well how a conductivity meter detects TDS. Every water change and top off increases the concentration that much more. I have no solid proof of this, I've just ruled out every other possibility I can think of. Unless I have a gremlin in my house dosing my tank with nickel... all rock has been changed out since starting, my sand is a dry(well was, it's wet now) inert silica, all pumps and powerheads have been inspected.
.

FWIW, I don't agree that 0 ppm TDS water coming from an RO/DI that is using drinkable water is at all likely to have excessive heavy metals in it that will kill corals.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If you suspect your RO/DI unit, you may want to try ATI's ICP test. It's not only $10 cheaper and includes postage, but they also include a third vial for testing your RO/DI water.

Just don't over-react to the tiny levels they report. Seeing some heavy metals is not necessarily showing "too much". I don't like this testing product particularly, at least they way they do it, since there is no guidance provided as to what is "normal" and what is too much. I have seen people waste money replacing RO/DI parts that are working fine.

That all said, adding a second DI, or replacing the old DI resin, is not ever going to cause any issues and is a fine plan.

 

[SashimiTurtle]

Corals RTN almost over night in the tank. Zoas close up and stay that way. Triton said I had extremely high heavy metals, the amounts are in the pictures on the first page. I've gone thru every pump I have in the tank and nothing is corroded. Metal is getting in the tank from somewhere...

This was my DI resin last night before I replaced it. It's the color changing type from BRS.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Does the TDS meter ever read higher than 0 ppm TDS?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

FWIW, I agree the metals are super high and need to be lowered. It is the cause that I am questioning.

But the metals in it don't really look like drinking water contaminants.

Copper is the most likely to be from your tap water. There's none.

Nickel, tin, molybdenum and vanadium (the ones you have that are super high) are not the usual metals contaminating tap water (is it well water?)

 

[SashimiTurtle]

It's rural city water? Lol... No well hooked up, just the line from the water company. The house is 40 years old and still has the original copper pipe from 1979 installed under it. No copper on report. My incoming TDS is 80ppm + or - 10ppm. After the RO membrane has been running for a minute I get 0-1ppm. After DI has always been 0ppm.

I've racked my brain as to what my problem could be. For 5 month almost. Corals all do this pretty much over night.

I've installed a ground probe, did the water changes like Triton suggested with a brand new bucket of salt. That stylo I grew from a small frag, placed it in my cube and in a few days it was dead. It wasn't light because I had it under the same light in the frag tank.

The only thing I have left to try is that old DI resin. It was right at a year old, but still showed 0ppm so I didn't want to waste money replacing it.

My sediment and 2 carbon filters are about 5 months old. I'll replace them next month. The sediment filter is just now starting to get a slight tint of tan to it. It's been bleach white up last week.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The first step is to try something that binds metals, like metasorb, cuprisorb, or a polyfilter.

I'm not a fan of the water change recommendation, except on a small tank.

 

[SashimiTurtle]

It's a 35g cube... right at 35g total water with the sump. I just remembered I was supposed to order that cuprisorb today.

 

[sfin52]

Could it be the dry rock you started with. I know you just changed it out.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Just don't over-react to the tiny levels they report. Seeing some heavy metals is not necessarily showing "too much". I don't like this testing product particularly, at least they way they do it, since there is no guidance provided as to what is "normal" and what is too much. I have seen people waste money replacing RO/DI parts that are working fine.

That makes a lot of sense. Other than using chloramines in the summer we're fortunate to start with pretty decent water here. I'm also a home-brewer and "build-up" RO water to match certain styles or regions for mashing (your chemistry lessons have been a huge help in that regard!), so filter maintenance is pretty tight. ATI's reports show "unmeasurable" down the line which is consistent with tests done through our local brew club a couple of years ago.

This was my DI resin last night before I replaced it. It's the color changing type from BRS.

Yep, you were ready for a change all right!

FWIW, if you go to the auto parts section of Walmart or an auto parts store, pick up one of the short stubby funnels used for filling oil. Cut all but an inch of the skinny end off and it makes filling the resin canisters soooo much easier.

 

[SashimiTurtle]

FWIW, if you go to the auto parts section of Walmart or an auto parts store, pick up one of the short stubby funnels used for filling oil. Cut all but an inch of the skinny end off and it makes filling the resin canisters soooo much easier.

I have a few of those... covered in oil. Lol I cut a corner off the bag and was able to squeeze the resin into the containers pretty easily.