Triton Sump Design

Discussion in 'Exotic Marine Systems' started by TaylorPilot, Mar 28, 2018.

  1. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    We continue to get request for sump kits designed around the Triton sump parameters. We have a basic design drawn out, but we thought we would share it in the hopes of getting the insights of other reef keepers.

    In our humble opinion:

    The skimmer portion is easy. We can just use one of our standard skimmer sections with media basket, but with it installed backwards. This way the water must go under the first baffle, up through the media, then over the adjustable skimmer baffle. Triton says that because the water must go down and under the baffle, more proteins will rise to the surface and stay trapped in the skimmer section.

    I should add that all images below have the water flowing from right to left.

    29-55 Triton.JPG

    The refugium section is a little more difficult for a few reasons. First, they suggest 10X turn over through the sump. This means a decent amount of flow going through the slots of the refugium baffle. Typically, the only way we’ve been able to make it completely silent is to raise the skimmer section level up to right below the teeth so that it doesn’t make any noise. The issue with this is that you now must run the skimmer on a stand, and that really defeats the purpose of having an adjustable skimmer baffle. Also, it makes you needlessly run the water level in your sump higher than you other wise would. This decreases the amount of water that the sump can hold when your return pump(s) are offline for cleaning, service, or power outage. Our solution to this is to add another set of teeth below the water line of the refugium baffle. To tune it so that only a tiny bit of water flows over the top teeth of the refugium, a sliding plate is installed over the slots. By raising or lowering that plate, you can finely tune the amount of water that flows through vs over the baffle. We have tried this before and it works well. The only issue in theory would be that when the pump is turned off, the skimmer and refugium section would equalize. If the refuge was completely full of macro algae, there is a chance that the water level could drop, and the top of the algae not be covered. However, this has not been our experience yet, and with a typical setup, both the skimmer section and refugium section are above the upper teeth of the refugium. But, it is something to keep in mind.

    Triton Fuge Baffle Rear - wo Algae Plate.JPG

    The next issue we see is with the refugium being full of algae and clogging the teeth of the baffle. We have seen other designs where people would put a small plate in front of the teeth blocking light and broken off pieces of macro algae. Our design would use 4 sets of nylon (same thing the thumb screws are made of), either ½” or 1” long to mount a large plate to the front of the refugium baffle, covering both sets of teeth. We can see a few possible benefits. First, it would keep the large dense mass of algae from getting to the teeth. Second, it would act as a light blocker, cutting down on the algae that would grow on the teeth. Finally, with a typical setup, water would only be drawn across the top. With it being drawn from all sides of the place, it would also cut down on dead zones in the refugium.

    Triton Fuge Baffle Front.JPG

    Triton Fuge Baffle Front - wo Algae Plate.JPG

    The final addition we are considering is a baffle before the refugium. Basically, it would be a baffle where all the drain water would flow under. The thinking is that if the water must flow from the bottom of the refugium, there would be less dead zones, and more water flowing over the entire algae mass. The negative is that it would eat up a few inches of the refugium section. On the 29 and 40B kits, that space is precious. In the 55, they have a lot more length for each section. The question is, would the possible benefit of better water flow through the refugium, and a slight increase in price outweigh the loss of a gallon or two of refugium capacity.

    29-55 Drain Baffle.JPG

    Here are a few renderings of what the 55 kit would look like.

    55 Triton.JPG 55 Triton Rear.JPG

    So, what does everyone think? Is the design good or bad? What would you change and why? We want to hear from you guys, so we can turn out the best possible product at the best possible price point, and most importantly…..Get it right the first time!
     
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  2. madweazl

    madweazl Valuable Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    I'd probably drop the weir altogether; I've had a refugium full of various macro-algae for almost two years now and while it does grow up against it, some water still flows through it but the vast majority just cascades over that baffle. I suppose it's possible that the weir helps hold it back but now that I'm doing it again for our 150g, I scrapped the weir and just left it as a solid piece of glass.
     
  3. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Interesting. If I were to just lower the weir down 1/2", the front plate would still block anything from coming over, but would still give a smooth weir. The CNC would cut it out faster also! LOL ;)
     
  4. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Like this?

    It should keep all the algae in place, draw water from the bottom and sides to cut down on dead zones, and theoretically, if you set your ATO to just below the skimmer baffle, you could flow several thousand GPH through it without even disturbing the surface of the water.

    55 Trition Rev 1 Front Eye Level.JPG 55 Trition Rev 1 Front.JPG 55 Trition Rev 1 Rear.JPG
     
  5. ReefInskeep

    ReefInskeep Active Member CIRS Member

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    Price point on a 20L version? I absolutely love your design.
     
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  6. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I am thinking the price will be the same as the standard configuration. $99. I need to order some standoffs to be able to make the plate to hold back the macro, but after having tried the fuge with the by-pass, I am pretty sold on the design. Although I do like the idea of a smooth weir. Good advice @madweazl ! I will say that the 20L and 29 are the same foot print, just different height. If your stand can swing it, I'd recommend the 29. It will give you allot more volume for the fuge. The price difference for the kits would be within $25.
     
  7. newbreefer316

    newbreefer316 Well-Known Member

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    I may be willing to test this out with a 75g tank. Setting up a Triton 210g system and am looking at different sump options after my custom sump was damaged in transit.
     
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  8. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Have you started a build thread? How did the sump get damaged?
     
  9. newbreefer316

    newbreefer316 Well-Known Member

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    Build thread is in my sig but haven't updated it yet since I'm at a crossroads with the sump and getting the last round of equipment. Sump was somehow damages during transit, busted up the seam between one of the main baffles. Dealing with shipping company insurance to figure that part out.
     
  10. wranodj

    wranodj Member

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    I’m looking for a separate refugium that can gravity feed to sump of approximately 25 gallons. My current sump does not have enough room.
     
  11. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    What floor space dimensions do you have to work with? The way our kits work is that they use standard off the shelf glass tanks as the basic sump. If you can find one of those that will work in your space, we can definitely accommodate you.
     
  12. newbreefer316

    newbreefer316 Well-Known Member

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    I plan on using a 30g 24x24x12 tank above my sump as a remote fuge that drains down into the sump. Run the mixed bed of algae in there and the chaeto by itself in the sump.

    SumpPlan.JPG
     
  13. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    We don't offer any kits for a 24" wide sump. We would probably have to go up to the next size acrylic panel. We can and have made them for 75 gallon tanks before. Have you talked to the manufacturer about the sump yet? It it was damaged in transit, you should be able to get things taken care of. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. I've had to send out packages after the originals were damaged during shipping. The boxes typically look like they have been run over by a Peterbilt.
     
  14. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I just built the first Triton sump kit. It fits in a 75 gallon tank, but could be tweaked to fit a 40B very easily. It all came out well. Now to get it shipped to @jschlem so he can get it installed.

    I am thinking of making one for a 55 gallon build and document in house. I will be interested to see how much the narrow tank will flow without making noise. With the water bypass in the fuge baffle, it should flow quite a bit without making noise or introducing bubbles.

    IMG_4168.JPG IMG_4166.JPG IMG_4167.JPG IMG_4165.JPG IMG_4169.JPG
     
  15. TaylorPilot

    TaylorPilot Valuable Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I cut out the baffles to install in my own 55 tonight to do some flow testing on. Only problem was that I couldn't get the old baffles out of the tank. It took me forever with a fresh razor blade to get the old ones out and glued it. I keep telling everyone how strong these baffles are once the silicone cures, but some people just don't believe me, because obviously you can't silicone acrylic to glass....

     
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