Trying to figure out proper filtration setup

[TheClemsonKid20]

I’ve got a ≈20 gallon nano reef tank that I was given as a gift. For background, I had a 90 gallon reef tank 10 years ago, but it’s been a while. I’m trying to decide how exactly to set up the ideal filtration for this particular tank.

it has an overflow cut into the tank on the top left, which drops into a chamber that has a piece of foam it runs over before entering. That’s where I have the heater. From there the water goes down, and then back up through a small opening into the second chamber. There, they provided me with what I later discovered was a three piece media filter from a JBJ nano 28. It’s a plastic all-in-one with three chambers. I placed some foam, carbon, and some stone media in that. The problem is, it doesn’t cover the entire length of the chamber. From there, it’s empties to the third chamber, which has a power head intake at the bottom, which redistributes the water back Into the aquarium.

my parameters are good, but not great. There’s around 15 ppm of nitrates and around 0.2 ammonia. Everything else is where it should be. The livestock is a skunk cleaner, bonded pair of Darwin clowns, a purple dottyback and a small Linear Blenny. I also have a clean up crew (two bigger snails, three smaller ones, and some hermits) as well as some Xenia soft coral.

Basically I’m trying to determine the ideal filtration setup with the chambers/spots I have available. So at some point I can add a few more complex softies. I have the Kessil A80 Tuna Blue light setup on gooseneck.

Again, have some familiarity, but I can already tell things are quite a bit different from ten years ago. Any help on getting the best setup would be awesome! Thanks in advance! This is basically the tank I have, except the overflow is at the top left, not bottom.

 

[TexanCanuck]

Congrats on getting a "free" tank! (which are usually the most expensive kind!)

I think the JBJ Nano-cubes are great tanks. Just realize that anything "nano" is going to be slightly more difficult to manage - with such a small water volume, even small amounts of pollutants can impact water quality significantly.

Having said all of that, I don't think 15ppm Nitrates and 0.2ppm of Ammonia are necessarily the end of the world - although it would be preferable to see that Ammonia level closer to 0.02ppm. (SIDE NOTE: before over-reacting to this ammonia level, try confirming the reading from a different test kit ... ammonia test kits are notoriously poor for accuracy [except for the Hanna Checker, IMO] ... if you don't have a different test kit, take a water sample to your LFS and get them to test it)

For dealing with the Ammonia I think the trick is finding some good bio media that will fit in the space provided within the AIO sump. I would look at something like Marinepure's MP2C-C media or Brightwell Aquatics' Xport-BIO Biomedia Cubes will be far superior to whatever stock media came with the tank (just make sure to soak the new media in some water from your tank [collected from a recent water change] and some Brightwell Aquatics' MicroBacter Start XLM). The great thing about either of these media is that a little will go a long way.

For dealing with Nitrates, I think there are four important elements to consider (shown here in order of impact):

(1) Stop adding nitrates to the tank - (A) make sure you use only RODI water and a high-quality salt to avoid adding nitrates every time you do a water change, and (B) don't over-feed your livestock

(2) Stop detritus for creating more nitrates - (A) change your mechanical filter [sponge] frequently and use a more fine foam to capture more debris, and (B) add a skimmer to that sump [not sure, but I'm guessing someone has already made a skimmer to specifically fit in that AIO sump], and (C) make sure to vacuum your substrate during each water change

(3) Export nitrates from your tank - (A) add some Macroalgae directly inside your display tank - there are lots of options to choose from, they add a nice visual appeal, and your copepods will thank you! (B) conduct more frequent water changes [at the very minimum, 10% EVERY WEEK]

(4) Cultivate de-nitrifying bacteria that can process nitrates into nitrogen gas - a product like Brightwell Aquatics' MicroBacter7 will help with this, but building up an effective colony of the specific varieties of de-nitrifying bacteria is a painfully slow process and usually of very limited impact on water quality unless you can also provide the right environment for them (anoxic, very low water movement)

Having said all of the above, don't fix what ain't broke! If your livestock is thriving and your corals are healthy, keep doing what you're doing!