Turf Algae - Should I just use fluconazole?

[ReefChasers]

Its a hitchhiker/invader and despite most of the recommendations here it is very unlikely to resolve at all on its own via biological management (tangs hermits etc) or "time". You will not be able to starve it by controlling nutrients. Its basically impossible to starve out algae without starving everything, and actually elevated nutrients does not equal algae problem, typically the opposite is true (very counter intuitive!)

IMO flucanazole will wipe it out. Dont overdose it and most things should be just fine. Ive dosed flucanazole in huge systems full of corals and as long as to follow instructions and not get gung-ho with it than you shouldnt have many problems with your corals.

You would be surprised what a flucanazole dose will do in a few weeks time to that stuff.

 

[sanzz18]

Its a hitchhiker/invader and despite most of the recommendations here it is very unlikely to resolve at all on its own via biological management (tangs hermits etc) or "time". You will not be able to starve it by controlling nutrients. Its basically impossible to starve out algae without starving everything, and actually elevated nutrients does not equal algae problem, typically the opposite is true (very counter intuitive!)

IMO flucanazole will wipe it out. Dont overdose it and most things should be just fine. Ive dosed flucanazole in huge systems full of corals and as long as to follow instructions and not get gung-ho with it than you shouldnt have many problems with your corals.

You would be surprised what a flucanazole dose will do in a few weeks time to that stuff.

What are the dosing instructions if I ever have to use it? Also, if I was to use it and it works, won’t you have huge spikes in nutrients from the die off? How do you manage those nutrients efficiently as this process occurs and not crash the tank?

 

[GarrettT]

I will have to check with my LFS to see if that have any of those urchins. Are urchins compatible with other species, like if I left my tuxedos in and got pincushions?
.

Yes. I had two tuxedos and two pincushions together without issue. They will coexist just fine. I would continue to remove manually as much as you can, but the pincushions will easily wipe out the rest.

 

[ReefChasers]

What are the dosing instructions if I ever have to use it? Also, if I was to use it and it works, won’t you have huge spikes in nutrients from the die off? How do you manage those nutrients efficiently as this process occurs and not crash the tank?

Go with the manufacturers directions as printed on the bottle. If using the reef flux "pills" the instructions might be different than if using the powder. Either way itll be printed on the box so just follow that.

Yes when the algae dies off it will release some nutrients into the water but its unlikely to crash the tank at all. Most peoples nutrients are way lower than they should be. Still, it would be worth-while to monitor your tank more closely during the treatment for around 2 weeks especially when the algae die off happens.

It doesnt happen all at once, but it seems to wither away over around 2 week time period. First it starts to turn white than it starts to look less dense than one day you wake up and its just gone like, forever gone.

If you have a skimmer the easiest way to control the nutrients is with organic carbon like vinegar vodka nopox etc. just follow the instructions on the bottle or one of randys recipes.

I would not worry at all unless nutrient exceed 25 ppm nitrate or 0.3 phosphate -- you should be able to guide the system back down to your desired range (i like 10ppm nitrate 0.1 phos). once the algae slowly withers away and the 2 weeks are up, simply do a few water changes and all should be smooth sailing.

Prior to dosing do as much manual removal as possible to further minimize any undesirable nutrient spike

 

[ReefChasers]

PS the skimmer should be off for the first 48-72 hours of dosing, so you would only employ the nopox strategy after that was up. The die off wont happen immediately though, so your skimmer will become available before any nutrient release.

 

[sanzz18]

Go with the manufacturers directions as printed on the bottle. If using the reef flux "pills" the instructions might be different than if using the powder. Either way itll be printed on the box so just follow that.

Yes when the algae dies off it will release some nutrients into the water but its unlikely to crash the tank at all. Most peoples nutrients are way lower than they should be. Still, it would be worth-while to monitor your tank more closely during the treatment for around 2 weeks especially when the algae die off happens.

It doesnt happen all at once, but it seems to wither away over around 2 week time period. First it starts to turn white than it starts to look less dense than one day you wake up and its just gone like, forever gone.

If you have a skimmer the easiest way to control the nutrients is with organic carbon like vinegar vodka nopox etc. just follow the instructions on the bottle or one of randys recipes.

I would not worry at all unless nutrient exceed 25 ppm nitrate or 0.3 phosphate -- you should be able to guide the system back down to your desired range (i like 10ppm nitrate 0.1 phos). once the algae slowly withers away and the 2 weeks are up, simply do a few water changes and all should be smooth sailing.

Prior to dosing do as much manual removal as possible to further minimize any undesirable nutrient spike

PS the skimmer should be off for the first 48-72 hours of dosing, so you would only employ the nopox strategy after that was up. The die off wont happen immediately though, so your skimmer will become available before any nutrient release.

Thanks for these directions. I have a feeling I will have to use fluconazole. I can’t see my CUC and the little bit I will be able to manually removed, putting a dent in this.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Are you sure it's turf algae? The TA I've had does not get long enough to move in the flow like yours seems to. To my eye, a lot of yours looks more like hair algae. Have you tried hydrogen peroxide?

 

[sanzz18]

Are you sure it's turf algae? The TA I've had does not get long enough to move in the flow like yours seems to. To my eye, a lot of yours looks more like hair algae. Have you tried hydrogen peroxide?

I mean I am not 100% sure, but based on reading, turf usually shorter then GHA? All my green (whatever it is), seems to be the same length.

I can’t take my rocks out which is why I haven’t tried hydrogen peroxide.

 

[GarrettT]

Is the algae easy or hard to pull off?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

You can turn off the pumps and use a syringe to squirt some H2O2 right on the algae patches. They should start to release bubbles... Hopefully within a day the algae will turn white and die.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I mean I am not 100% sure, but based on reading, turf usually shorter then GHA? All my green (whatever it is), seems to be the same length.

I can’t take my rocks out which is why I haven’t tried hydrogen peroxide.

My turf algae has literally been like "turf"... made the rocks fuzzy but didn't grow long at all like hair algae

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Is the algae easy or hard to pull off?

This is a good question. If you decide to use H2O2, manually remove as much as you can first.
In fact, turbos and other snails are not likely to do much for long algae, you'd need to trim it first (or remove as much as possible) and let the cuc take care of the stuff they can easily crawl over. I'm not sure if urchins will eat long algae but I expect they are the same...

 

[KrisReef]

Good point about the hair/turf algae discussion. I used op's term turf thinking that a lot of people use the term turf of Green Hair algae because it can fill in and look like a lawn? Turf is often called wire algae, hair algae is not wirey, more like a mushy wet lawn than stiff turf algae.

 

[ReefChasers]

Its likely a type of bryopsis as there are tons of species of algae and it is can be very difficult to nail down exactly what type it is but visually speaking i know that this type responds to flucanazole and according to manufacturer's instructions flucanazole only works for bryopsis.

IME flucanazole is a much safer in tank treatment than hydrogen peroxide and I would never recommend to any reefer that in tank use of peroxide is beneficial. Its certainly lethal to the algae but its also lethal to everything else in your tank.

If you remove rocks and debride/treat with peroxide outside of the tank then rinse and return that would be considered safe and effective but not in the tank directly, imo.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

IME flucanazole is a much safer in tank treatment than hydrogen peroxide and I would never recommend to any reefer that in tank use of peroxide is beneficial. Its certainly lethal to the algae but its also lethal to everything else in your tank.

Many, many experts would disagree with you.

 

[ReefChasers]

Many, many experts would disagree with you.

I think I would qualify as an expert IMO and I am speaking directly from personal experience you can ignore/discredit if you like but i think very few expert would ever recommend in tank dosage of hydrogen peroxide as a cure. Especially with acropora present~

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I think I would qualify as an expert IMO and I am speaking directly from personal experience you can ignore/discredit if you like but i think very few expert would ever recommend in tank dosage of hydrogen peroxide as a cure. Especially with acropora present~

First of all, I suggested spot treatment with the pumps off, meaning the H2O2 would be localized to the algae. H2O2 rapidly breaks down so 5-10 mls of it would not affect anything in the tank once pumps are turned back on and it dissipates into the tank.

Second, true experts (who make their living/have large followings for their expertise in this area) go as far as to promote DOSING H2O2 to treat both fish and coral problems.

Your experience aside, the facts are that H2O2 is not "lethal to everything else in your tank".

 

[ReefChasers]

First of all, I suggested spot treatment with the pumps off, meaning the H2O2 would be localized to the algae. H2O2 rapidly breaks down so 5-10 mls of it would not affect anything in the tank once pumps are turned back on and it dissipates into the tank.

Second, true experts (who make their living/have large followings for their expertise in this area) go as far as to promote DOSING H2O2 to treat both fish and coral problems.

Your experience aside, the facts are that H2O2 is not "lethal to everything else in your tank".

We are Reef Chasers and we operate a 10,000 gallon+ aquaculture farm and have a following of over 6000+ on our socials. My livelihood depends on this every single day. I am sorry that this turned so confrontational. I am only here to offer help / advice as an active part of the community that we service and not to argue with folks so I do apologize for any offense that I may have caused.

We can agree to disagree about the peroxide and the OP can review the info and decide what is best for their tank~

 

[Daniel@R2R]

First of all, I suggested spot treatment with the pumps off, meaning the H2O2 would be localized to the algae. H2O2 rapidly breaks down so 5-10 mls of it would not affect anything in the tank once pumps are turned back on and it dissipates into the tank.

Second, true experts (who make their living/have large followings for their expertise in this area) go as far as to promote DOSING H2O2 to treat both fish and coral problems.

Your experience aside, the facts are that H2O2 is not "lethal to everything else in your tank".

I think you might not realize it, but you are actively dialoguing with an expert in the reef industry.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I think you might not realize it, but you are actively dialoguing with an expert in the reef industry.

And I have actively dialogued with other experts who use H2O2 regularly in their tanks.
Thanks.