Two tanks: Here's my parameters, which one to choose for SPS?

vetteguy53081

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Hi R2R experts

so I have been focusing on breeding mollies and sexy shrimps in my two tanks for the last year but now I want to add corals. Stony ones, preferably SPS:cool: - some "easier" acros like PC rainbow, miyagi tort and frogskin, green slimer (and please don't tell me to start w a zenia and a mushroom) :face-with-hand-over-mouth:

I have a pico tank w the sexies 4 gallon and a nano 15 gallon w fish. They have very dif numbers and I would like your help to determining which one would be better with coral.

Pico (1 year old):
Sal 33
Alk 9.1
Nitrate 10
Nitrite 0
Phos 0 to than 0.5 (I don't have a Hannah for this one)
Light FLuval nano

Nano (1.5 years old):
Sal 32.5
Alk 9.7
Nitrate 25
Nitratie 0
Phos Less than 2, higher than 0.5
Popbloom RL90

As for lighting I have recently bought a Par meter and have done a par map - light will not be a problem with clever placement. Both tanks are totally stable with these parameters. I'm running Phosguard on the nano but nothing seems to help with the high phosphate. I'm feeding a lot and I guess my only option would be to remove some of the fish to bring it down or add tons of macroalgae. I do very small but frequent water changes which I have found to be better than 20 peecent ones.

I don't have a Hannah for other than Nitrate, nitrite, and alkalinity. I have ordered one for phosfate now and calcium is next. For now the phospahte numbers are a worthless Salifert test.

So my question. Which one to choose for corals? Best chemistry seems to be in the pico but very little room for error w the water volume which scares me a bit. Nano oldest and good water volume but nutrients high due to fish.
Larger tank and bump salinity to at least 34ppt
 
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MissMolly

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Larger tank and bump salinity to at least 34ppt
That should be easy. It’s just the dang phosphates in that particular tank. I have now ordered a bag full of super expensive macroalgae (could have bought Way to many coral drags for this money) to help being is down in a long term sustainable way
 

vetteguy53081

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That should be easy. It’s just the dang phosphates in that particular tank. I have now ordered a bag full of super expensive macroalgae (could have bought Way to many coral drags for this money) to help being is down in a long term sustainable way
Phos often elevated due to overfeeding, lack of filtration or maintenance, use of tap water and foods including powdered foods such as reef roids
 
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MissMolly

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Phos often elevated due to overfeeding, lack of filtration or maintenance, use of tap water and foods including powdered foods such as reef roids
Oooh I know very well where my phosphate is coming from. I’m breeding mollies and they eat a lot. Big stomachs. I have tried to cut down but the whole population gets super grumpy when not fed a three course dinner three times a day.
 
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MissMolly

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People have proven you can run these tanks with higher nutrients…even shown they thrive.

I’d be more concerned about the higher alk but easy to lowe

People have proven you can run these tanks with higher nutrients…even shown they thrive.

I’d be more concerned about the higher alk but easy to lower
As I have understood, higher alk should be okay as long as it is balanced with the calcium level? Higher alk, higher cal. Mine should be around 425 with around 9 alk. I have just bought a hanna online to examine.
Otherwise I have the option to switch to a more low alk salt like Tropic marin?
 

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As I have understood, higher alk should be okay as long as it is balanced with the calcium level? Higher alk, higher cal. Mine should be around 425 with around 9 alk. I have just bought a hanna online to examine.
Otherwise I have the option to switch to a more low alk salt like Tropic marin?
It’s also higher alk goes better with higher phosphate / nitrate
 
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MissMolly

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It’s also higher alk goes better with higher phosphate / nitrate
Yes and that also! :) They go hand in hand as I have understood. I'm not looking to change one thing over night. Both of my tanks have been stable at this level for a long time so my plan now is to raise salinity to 34, try to bring down nitrates and phos with less feeding, macroalgae, mangroves and phosguard and then see where I'm at in a while. Maybe using a dif brand of salt and mixing with my current to bring down alk a little this way if posssible. All of this should be maintainable in the long run. When I see some improvement I will add some common /proven austera and tortousa and see how that goes.

The beauty is in the journey :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
 

MONTANTK

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As I have understood, higher alk should be okay as long as it is balanced with the calcium level? Higher alk, higher cal. Mine should be around 425 with around 9 alk. I have just bought a hanna online to examine.
Otherwise I have the option to switch to a more low alk salt like Tropic marin?
I believe that is correct. Personally, I would rather run lower alk but that’s just me
 
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MissMolly

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I believe that is correct. Personally, I would rather run lower alk but that’s just me
Yes. My current Fauna Marin salt says 8-8.5 alk so I'm switching to Tropic Marin Pro Reef which also have higher calcium, so perhaps there's some "easy" wins here.
 

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I can't comment on the two light options, but I'd put the SPS in whichever of the two tanks has better flow. Unless you are directly blasting your coral with a powerhead, it is very hard to overdo flow. Multiple pumps is a good idea.

I'd also bump the salinity up to 35 ppt, and target an alkalinity more like 8 dKH. Pick a salt mix with parameters close to how you want to maintain your tank, so water changes are less of a stress on the corals.

Also try to get the phosphate to decrease slowly to some stable, lower value. GFO and increased water change frequency will help, but it's important to remember phosphates are only getting into the tank through food. Some foods are lower in phosphate, and I've found my tank settled on a lower PO4 value when changing from mostly pellets, to mostly frozen foods.

I have had very good luck with a lot of SPS, from wild caught colonies to "high end" frags. Stable dKH and PO4, paired with plenty of light and flow is a simple formula that seems to keep them happy.
 

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