I turned off my sump for a few mins while I fed my corals (I do that so the water's not so chaotic while I target-feed them). While I did, I accidentally knocked a cooling fan INTO my sump, completely submerging it. It was in the water for maybe 5 mins before I noticed. I'm afraid the fan might have some chemicals on it, or maybe some reaction while the electricity flowed through it messed something up. I've left my sump off for now, hopefully someone has some good advice soon. Should I go ahead and shrug, and just turn sump back on? DO I need to do a water change in the sump only, before turning back on? (That'd take hours, getting it mixed, and then temp up to correct temperature).
Urgent! Dropped an electric fan briefly into my sump!
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vetteguy53081
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Add carbon and chuck the fan. Should have any substances on it unless you applied it.
IF it was me, I'd do a water change just to be safe honestly.. You never know
than I'd turn everything back on and pretend it never happened
How long am I ok leaving the sump off? It'll take me quite a while to mix the water and get it up to temp.
Darrell Brady
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if you have flow in your tank you will be okay while you mix your salt
mtfish
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How much water is in the sump versus the main tank? In the old days the solution to pollution was dilution. If it were me, I would turn the pump back on and make new water. When water was ready I would do a water exchange.
i wouldn't do anything too fast. adding carbon may have a worse reaction on your corals zooanthelle than anything in the fan. keep in mind metals are found in waters in very low amounts, so unless it rusted or burnt or melted i would doubt any harm to the tank.
If we are talking a normal sump it’s only 10-20 gallons should be ready in an hour with heater and pump. If sump like mine 100 gallons will take 3-5 hours to heat water.
And imo if all you did was drop a fan in sump and you did not add anything besides a fan that was store bought them I’m sure it’s ok and don’t do anything except turn pumps back on and go on with your day.
Albertan22
Well-Known Member
Assuming you have some kind of power heads or other flow than your return pump to maintain oxygenation, you can leave the sump offline for days. Just move your heater into the display to maintain temperature. If your bioload is really high then you might want to drop an air stone into the display as well, but if you’re not really heavily stocked then surface agitation with power heads should be enough.
No chemicals on fan and electrical flow stopped soon as it hit water
Albertan22
Well-Known Member
I
It would likely have oils or grease. Also, the fine copper wire in an electric motor will corrode very quickly in salt water (ask me how I know). I’d just do the water change. I had an electrical device hit my water once and it killed a lot of corals and inverts.
i have a $10 home depot fan clipped to the edge of the sump.
If it fell in I would get another and not worry about it.
I have a 1 cup carbon reactor already running.
5 minutes is not long enough for a spike in any heavy metals imo.
I found a cracked impeller on my return pump awhile back. Could have been like that for a few months.
I let it run until the new impeller arrives in a week with no issues for what its worth.
I dont think a water change is needed but it cant hurt so its up to you.
If it fell in I would get another and not worry about it.
I have a 1 cup carbon reactor already running.
5 minutes is not long enough for a spike in any heavy metals imo.
I found a cracked impeller on my return pump awhile back. Could have been like that for a few months.
I let it run until the new impeller arrives in a week with no issues for what its worth.
I dont think a water change is needed but it cant hurt so its up to you.
God made dirt so dirt don’t hurt
yes I guess your right maybe some grease but inside and without some agitation would not go far cause grease is not easily water Soluble even with salt. And the little time it spent with copper windings In there would be fine. Not like it was days and time for anything to CorrodeSimilar threads
