UV Sterilizer in Red Sea Reefer 350??

aaron186

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I’m restarting my Reefer 350. I’m using a trigger platinum 26 sump and have already converted the plumbing to accept 1in pvc. I’m trying to figure out how to add a pentair UV sterilizer to the system. Main goal will be for algae but would like option to lower flow if possible for Protozoa if possible. Per BRS it should be the 25watt which is 29in x 3.5. Has anyone done this? I only have the 1 return. Should I plumb it into my primary return? Would it be ok to get a second pump and run it from the skimmer section to the return section? Will this cause issues with my skimmer section running dry and dumping too much water into my return? I plan on running this with an apex and flow meter.
I also need ideas how to fit it in the sump. It can’t be visible per the wife. Fitting it horizontally in the sump section will be tight. I could cut holes into the other side of the stand or maybe run it behind tank. Any help is appreciated.
 

RGoltz

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I have an AquaUV 25 on my 450XL. The form factor on the AquaUV classic is easier to work with. In my case the UV hangs on the back wall of the stand and a small DC pump is plumbed in from the skimmer area and then returns to the input area of the sump. I did remove the ATO reservoir to make all this work but now everything is big and open. I like it.
 

AJsReef

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I don’t have the same size tank/UV but I have an 80W on my 750XXL plumbed into the return line without any issues.

Id encourage a way to meter flow to ensure you return pump is adequate. Red Sea plumbing is restrictive as is so you’ll likely need a pump with more power than you’d expect
 

yenniffer

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I don’t have the same size tank/UV but I have an 80W on my 750XXL plumbed into the return line without any issues.

Id encourage a way to meter flow to ensure you return pump is adequate. Red Sea plumbing is restrictive as is so you’ll likely need a pump with more power than you’d expect
Hi I’m trying to figure out the plumbing part. I also have the 750xxl and trying to install a pentair 40w. Do u mind sharing a picture of ur installation? Ty
 

Krux

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I am waiting for a Vecton TitanUV to become available, Reefbuilders has a news release on the unit up on their site.
 

gbroadbridge

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I’m restarting my Reefer 350. I’m using a trigger platinum 26 sump and have already converted the plumbing to accept 1in pvc. I’m trying to figure out how to add a pentair UV sterilizer to the system. Main goal will be for algae but would like option to lower flow if possible for Protozoa if possible. Per BRS it should be the 25watt which is 29in x 3.5. Has anyone done this? I only have the 1 return. Should I plumb it into my primary return? Would it be ok to get a second pump and run it from the skimmer section to the return section? Will this cause issues with my skimmer section running dry and dumping too much water into my return? I plan on running this with an apex and flow meter.
I also need ideas how to fit it in the sump. It can’t be visible per the wife. Fitting it horizontally in the sump section will be tight. I could cut holes into the other side of the stand or maybe run it behind tank. Any help is appreciated.
If you want it to work against protozoa such as Cryptocaryon Irritans (Marine Ich) you need at least a Pentair 40 for your sized tank.

Check the flow rates recommended by the manufacturer which for the 40w is 7.6 litres per minute = 120 gph.

They do not have a flow rate for protozoa for the 25w as it is too small.

Regards
Graham.
 

craftsman1983

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I’m restarting my Reefer 350. I’m using a trigger platinum 26 sump and have already converted the plumbing to accept 1in pvc. I’m trying to figure out how to add a pentair UV sterilizer to the system. Main goal will be for algae but would like option to lower flow if possible for Protozoa if possible. Per BRS it should be the 25watt which is 29in x 3.5. Has anyone done this? I only have the 1 return. Should I plumb it into my primary return? Would it be ok to get a second pump and run it from the skimmer section to the return section? Will this cause issues with my skimmer section running dry and dumping too much water into my return? I plan on running this with an apex and flow meter.
I also need ideas how to fit it in the sump. It can’t be visible per the wife. Fitting it horizontally in the sump section will be tight. I could cut holes into the other side of the stand or maybe run it behind tank. Any help is appreciated.
Following...I plan to purchase a 425 XL so we have very similar footprints...and the wife does not want to see anything outside tank;) I've seen some cut holes to the right of the sump area, but I am always afraid of structural support when cutting holes in a tank stand.
 

AJsReef

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Following...I plan to purchase a 425 XL so we have very similar footprints...and the wife does not want to see anything outside tank;) I've seen some cut holes to the right of the sump area, but I am always afraid of structural support when cutting holes in a tank stand.

Assuming the holes are sized and spaces appropriately very little to worry about in regards to structural integrity.

Ive made a few 1 3/4” holes in my 750 w/o issue
 

RGoltz

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Following...I plan to purchase a 425 XL so we have very similar footprints...and the wife does not want to see anything outside tank;) I've seen some cut holes to the right of the sump area, but I am always afraid of structural support when cutting holes in a tank stand.
As mentioned, I have a 425XL with the AquaUV Classic 25W and it is an easy fit. I originally bought a 54W but was having an issue with stray voltage so YMMV.
 

craftsman1983

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As mentioned, I have a 425XL with the AquaUV Classic 25W and it is an easy fit. I originally bought a 54W but was having an issue with stray voltage so YMMV.
How did you plumb it? I’ve been going back and forth how to do this. Do I run a separate pump and t it into the return pipe? Do I run it on the same line as my main return pump? Do I have a separate pump in sump that essentially draws water into the sterilizer and then just recirculates the water to a different part of the sump?
Also, are you using this model for algae control or for disease control?
 

RGoltz

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How did you plumb it? I’ve been going back and forth how to do this. Do I run a separate pump and t it into the return pipe? Do I run it on the same line as my main return pump? Do I have a separate pump in sump that essentially draws water into the sterilizer and then just recirculates the water to a different part of the sump?
Also, are you using this model for algae control or for disease control?
A couple of things here :
  1. I removed the standard ATO reservoir. I am using a 10 gallon Geo’s reef ATO (all black looks nice) and a Tunze ATO. This allows me to be gone for at least 1 week AND it opened up space in my cabinet.
  2. I have a small DC pump in my skimmer section (no refugium) that feeds the UV. This returns to the inlet area of the sump. I run 4 socks and my sump stays very clean.

You can find the exposure rates for AquaUV and Pentair, then draw your own conclusions of where you want to run... Also, dig around on the site for the US distributor of vectron; he has a good analysis of UV exposure and application. I will not jinx myself on parasite control but my water is quite clear when my goby is not busy in the sand.

Here is a photo for reference. It doesn’t get much easier than this!
B11E5864-662B-4A73-9B3A-D27D9255C608.jpeg
 

craftsman1983

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Thanks! So, it seems like you tilted the sterilizer a bit to make sure it would fill with water? I like the simplicity of this set-up. The more I get crazy ideas of manifolds the more I need to remind myself to calm down and keep things simple.
 

RGoltz

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Thanks! So, it seems like you tilted the sterilizer a bit to make sure it would fill with water? I like the simplicity of this set-up. The more I get crazy ideas of manifolds the more I need to remind myself to calm down and keep things simple.
In my arrangement the inlet and outlet are on the top. IMO this should be sufficient to vent air in the UV. But since I am using straps to hang the UV it was easy to add some angle so why not?

My research led me to an exposure of 180,000 µW/cm2 for parasites. The reputable brands publish exposure rates, so you can use these to do some calculations. Also look at this page: AquariumUVSterilization there is a section telling you to not do what I do (recirculate in the sump but feeding to the return chamber caused other problems) and also a useful table and talk about turnover.

I’m happy with the setup. The might build a manifold some day but probably not..
 

gbroadbridge

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In my arrangement the inlet and outlet are on the top. IMO this should be sufficient to vent air in the UV. But since I am using straps to hang the UV it was easy to add some angle so why not?

My research led me to an exposure of 180,000 µW/cm2 for parasites. The reputable brands publish exposure rates, so you can use these to do some calculations. Also look at this page: AquariumUVSterilization there is a section telling you to not do what I do (recirculate in the sump but feeding to the return chamber caused other problems) and also a useful table and talk about turnover.

I’m happy with the setup. The might build a manifold some day but probably not..
FWIW, for cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich) you need > 280,000 uw/cm2.

Thats from the support pages. 180,000 is okay for velvet.
IMG_2642.PNG


Graham.
 

jmichaelh7

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You can hard plumb it straight from return pump it’s been done as I had 15 watt on my 425xl
 

RGoltz

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FWIW, for cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich) you need > 280,000 uw/cm2.

Thats from the support pages. 180,000 is okay for velvet.
IMG_2642.PNG


Graham.
I stand corrected and find the same figure listed here.

As an example a 57w AquaUV would provide ~280,000 uw/cm2 and ~3x turnover on a 100 gallon (actual) system. As mentioned, this is what I initially installed but had issues with stray voltage causing my heater controller to misbehave. But YMMV.
 

RGoltz

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Can you attach a few pics of your setup, please? I’m going back and forth how to incorporate a sterilizer.
I had it this way at one time. Basically a Y off the pump to the UV and a T into the return. The problem for me was that I had no idea how much flow was moving through the UV, even with a gate valve after the Y. That is why some people have flow meters.
 

craftsman1983

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I had it this way at one time. Basically a Y off the pump to the UV and a T into the return. The problem for me was that I had no idea how much flow was moving through the UV, even with a gate valve after the Y. That is why some people have flow meters.
Ahhh...that would do it. Did you get a stronger pump because you were diverting some of the flow to the UV sterilizer? The only way short of the flow meter to gauge the flow through the sterilizer would be to put a gate valve on the main return line, close that line, then divert water to UV sterilizer at the flow you want. Adjust the gate valve going to sterilizer and then have outtake hose on sterilizer drain into a bucket and let it fill for 60 seconds. Then, multiple the amount in bucket by 60 for flow per hour. Does this method make sense?
 

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