UV Sterilizers??? A Waste Or Worth It, Big & Small

jsvand5

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The tmc 110 seems very under powered for saltwater compared to aqua ultraviolet and emporor. Just from doing quick research . Seems to only be reccomend for saltwater tanks max of 265 gallons i emailed tmc just out of curiosity aswell.

Not trying to start a heated debate just trying to gain more knowledge.

Screenshot_20190925-135813_Chrome.jpg


Did the company respond with the 265g number? Seems to be totally incorrect
 

Jon Fishman

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Avast mutiny v2

Everyone that has one loves it.
and a large air dryer from BRS.

Sorry to keep bringing this up, but I am looking at this....


What else exactly do I need to buy to “plug and play”?
 

Jay Z

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Sorry to keep bringing this up, but I am looking at this....


What else exactly do I need to buy to “plug and play”?
List for plug and play
Avast
-mutiny v2
add in cart with it
- ozotech 200mg generator
- cr5 post filter
- 2 carbon refills (cheap from here)
- syncra 0.5 (will come with needle wheel) Avasts own modified version through sicce
- ozone safe thick wall tubing IF your going to relocate the post filter out side the sump or in another chamber. $7 per foot, Come with some from the get go.

BRS
- Large air dryer w/media

I also recommend a Milwaukee orp kit from BRS just for redundancy on the orp sensors.

If you want to go with a eletrcic air dryer down the road, will also need a vacuum feed pump as you cannot push air through the electric dryer.
 

Jon Fishman

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List for plug and play
Avast
-mutiny v2
add in cart with it
- ozotech 200mg generator
- cr5 post filter
- 2 carbon refills (cheap from here)
- syncra 0.5 (will come with needle wheel) Avasts own modified version through sicce
- ozone safe thick wall tubing IF your going to relocate the post filter out side the sump or in another chamber. $7 per foot, Come with some from the get go.

BRS
- Large air dryer w/media

I also recommend a Milwaukee orp kit from BRS just for redundancy on the orp sensors.

If you want to go with a eletrcic air dryer down the road, will also need a vacuum feed pump as you cannot push air through the electric dryer.

The Ozone Reactor 200mg/hr is out of stock. Won’t work without that I am guessing???
 

Sashaka

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Did the company respond with the 265g number? Seems to be totally incorrect

I guess the OP made a decision and has let the thread go dormant. I was also interested in his response as there is a uv 110 in the for sale forum and I've been considering it for my 180 gal. Is this overkill for my tank? The company recommended two Vecton-6: V2 600 25 Watt -$195.99 units for my tank or one TMC Pro Clear Ultima 55- 55 Watt Professional Pond UV Clarifier & Sterilizer - $295.99 . Any advice @ca1ore or other people that have the TMC uvs would be helpful.
 

Sashaka

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I'm not sure where you got that information from but I assure you the tmc 110 is rated for much more than 200 gallons.

Why are you selling this unit if it is so great? The question is in earnest as I am considering the unit you have for sale.
 

slayertx

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I have 2 36w in series on my 110g. I still get normal algae and stuff. funny thing is I have clear vinyl tubing connecting them together and I can see film build up between the two and uv light escape's and can be seen in the tube. So how much it really works idk but I haven't had a crash in years but I will do anything to stop the spread of any algae or diatoms
 

Jon Fishman

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I guess the OP made a decision and has let the thread go dormant. I was also interested in his response as there is a uv 110 in the for sale forum and I've been considering it for my 180 gal. Is this overkill for my tank? The company recommended two Vecton-6: V2 600 25 Watt -$195.99 units for my tank or one TMC Pro Clear Ultima 55- 55 Watt Professional Pond UV Clarifier & Sterilizer - $295.99 . Any advice @ca1ore or other people that have the TMC uvs would be helpful.

I have 4 aqua-UV 25W units (so 100w really) for my 150g system. I would think 110w would be perfect for a 180g..... I would go bigger if a good deal were available
 

Sashaka

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I have 2 36w in series on my 110g. I still get normal algae and stuff. funny thing is I have clear vinyl tubing connecting them together and I can see film build up between the two and uv light escape's and can be seen in the tube. So how much it really works idk but I haven't had a crash in years but I will do anything to stop the spread of any algae or diatoms

My primary reason for considering a UV is to control bacteria or reach level 1 sterilization. I don't really have an algae problem. Still, my thinking is if I'm going to drop big bucks on a UV, I might as well get one that has both level one and level two sterilization. If there is one thing in this hobby I've learned over the years, it's that no method to keep pathogens out of a tank is 100% fail safe. After just finishing an H202 dosing experiment, I would like to keep my tank as pathogen and bacteria free as possible.
Thanks for the input!
 

jsvand5

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I guess the OP made a decision and has let the thread go dormant. I was also interested in his response as there is a uv 110 in the for sale forum and I've been considering it for my 180 gal. Is this overkill for my tank? The company recommended two Vecton-6: V2 600 25 Watt -$195.99 units for my tank or one TMC Pro Clear Ultima 55- 55 Watt Professional Pond UV Clarifier & Sterilizer - $295.99 . Any advice @ca1ore or other people that have the TMC uvs would be helpful.

I have the TMC 110 on my 210g tank. It’s definitely overkill but I love it. I had a tank full of tangs with ich. Within a week of hooking up the TMC all signs were gone. There is still ich in my system of course but it’s not something I even think about anymore (as far as losing fish to ich). I can tell when it’s time for new bulbs when my Achillies tang starts getting a few spots.
 

Sashaka

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I have the TMC 110 on my 210g tank. It’s definitely overkill but I love it. I had a tank full of tangs with ich. Within a week of hooking up the TMC all signs were gone. There is still ich in my system of course but it’s not something I even think about anymore (as far as losing fish to ich). I can tell when it’s time for new bulbs when my Achillies tang starts getting a few spots.
Can I ask how you plumbed yours in and what kind of flow you have it working under?
 

TARHEEL78

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Why are you selling this unit if it is so great? The question is in earnest as I am considering the unit you have for sale.
I'm letting go of my 180 gallon and downsizing to something much smaller in anticipation of an upcoming move. I'm currently looking for a small AIO tank.
 

pancholt1z28

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I have always used a uv sterilizer in all of my tanks, especially with tangs like a pbt or achilles. Acanthurus tangs do way better with a uv in my experience. Ich outbreaks were almost non-existent with a uv.
 

Sashaka

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I'm letting go of my 180 gallon and downsizing to something much smaller in anticipation of an upcoming move. I'm currently looking for a small AIO tank.
Will pm you.
 

jsvand5

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Can I ask how you plumbed yours in and what kind of flow you have it working under?

I have a pump pushing water up through the bottom of the UV and out the top back into the same chamber of the sump. Probably not nearly the most efficient way to do it but with the UV being so oversized it doesn’t seem to matter. Some of the water definitely recirculated before going back into the tank. If I was doing it over I would run the return pump up into the UV and then back to the tank.

I initially set it up so that the water drained from above down into the UV and then the sump but I had issues with air bubbles eventually building up and causing a lot of noise. Pushing it up from the bottom of the UV fixed the problem because any air manages to purge itself. It’s silent now.

I have about 1000g an hour going through which is actually more than my return pump even pumps per hour.
 

jsvand5

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I have a pump pushing water up through the bottom of the UV and out the top back into the same chamber of the sump. Probably not nearly the most efficient way to do it but with the UV being so oversized it doesn’t seem to matter. Some of the water definitely recirculated before going back into the tank. If I was doing it over I would run the return pump up into the UV and then back to the tank. This was set up well after my tank was up and running so I pretty much just went with what required the least amount of plumbing to be redone.

I initially set it up so that the water drained from above down into the UV and then the sump but I had issues with air bubbles eventually building up and causing a lot of noise. Pushing it up from the bottom of the UV fixed the problem because any air manages to purge itself. It’s silent now.

I have about 1000g an hour going through which is actually more than my return pump even pumps per hour.
 

Sashaka

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I have a pump pushing water up through the bottom of the UV and out the top back into the same chamber of the sump. Probably not nearly the most efficient way to do it but with the UV being so oversized it doesn’t seem to matter. Some of the water definitely recirculated before going back into the tank. If I was doing it over I would run the return pump up into the UV and then back to the tank.

I initially set it up so that the water drained from above down into the UV and then the sump but I had issues with air bubbles eventually building up and causing a lot of noise. Pushing it up from the bottom of the UV fixed the problem because any air manages to purge itself. It’s silent now.

I have about 1000g an hour going through which is actually more than my return pump even pumps per hour.
Thank you. That information helps a lot as I decide how I want to plumb my own unit. :)
 

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