UV Sterilizers, which unit to choose and why?

CEReefer · Sep 5, 2020

Why is there such a big difference in terms of "declared performance" between AquaUV and Lifegard?

- Lifegard ProMax 90W has a declared flow of 2800gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)
- AquaUV Classic 40 Watt has a declared flow of 2900gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)

Now, how can a unit that's half the size do the same job? Is someone "cheating" on numbers? Is someone using a better lamp/quartz sleeve? (I know there is some differences in the kind of those, but not sure it justify doubling the performance)..

What are your thoughts?

Cory · Sep 5, 2020

CEReefer said:
Why is there such a big difference in terms of "declared performance" between AquaUV and Lifegard?

- Lifegard ProMax 90W has a declared flow of 2800gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)
- AquaUV Classic 40 Watt has a declared flow of 2900gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)

Now, how can a unit that's half the size do the same job? Is someone "cheating" on numbers? Is someone using a better lamp/quartz sleeve? (I know there is some differences in the kind of those, but not sure it justify doubling the performance)..

What are your thoughts?

Maybe one is quoting freshwater?

CEReefer · Sep 5, 2020

Cory said:
Maybe one is quoting freshwater?

Not at all, both saltwater, both targeting 30000 microwatts/cm2..

MarineREEFpassion · Sep 5, 2020

CEReefer said:
Why is there such a big difference in terms of "declared performance" between AquaUV and Lifegard?

- Lifegard ProMax 90W has a declared flow of 2800gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)
- AquaUV Classic 40 Watt has a declared flow of 2900gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)

Now, how can a unit that's half the size do the same job? Is someone "cheating" on numbers? Is someone using a better lamp/quartz sleeve? (I know there is some differences in the kind of those, but not sure it justify doubling the performance)..

What are your thoughts?

A lot related to the intensity of each manufacturer lights output and performance expectancy. I have the new life aquatics HO UV that uses an amalgam bulb so it’s output is greater than others so the flow specs are way different than like Pentair or Aqua UV. Most will be personal preference and fit finish desires.

CEReefer · Sep 5, 2020

MarineREEFpassion said:
A lot related to the intensity of each manufacturer lights output and performance expectancy. I have the new life aquatics HO UV that uses an amalgam bulb so it’s output is greater than others so the flow specs are way different than like Pentair or Aqua UV. Most will be personal preference and fit finish desires.

Well the striking thing is that Lifegard uses the amalgam (which in theory is superior) but still declares less flow (less performance).. Weird..

Cory · Sep 6, 2020

The thing with aqua uv is it reminds me of a piece of fashion. And that they apparently can defy typical uv guides. Im not sure about this company based on that.

MarineREEFpassion · Sep 8, 2020

CEReefer said:
Well the striking thing is that Lifegard uses the amalgam (which in theory is superior) but still declares less flow (less performance).. Weird..

Mine has done a better job at algae control than my huge Pentair 120w that I had. I think they all inflate their specs. It’s a trial and error thing like most things are in this hobby lol. What works great for one system may not work as well or at all for another’s.

metzer · Sep 8, 2020

Badilac said:
With the recent buzz around UV Sterilizers thanks to a few videos from industry giants I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most people purchase what these industry leaders push / sell which is fine and dandy, but I suggest everyone do their own research.

When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you are trying to control in your aquarium. Typically, most people select a UV to control either Algae (of various kinds) or parasites (of various kinds). Make sure you do not select a unit that is too undersized to do the job you are selecting the UV for. Also keep in mind selecting a very large unit could cause a lot of unwanted heat in your aquarium. UV's are essentially heaters that are on ALL the time unlike a normal heater that cycles on and off to regulate the temp. One other thing I see discussed from time to time is “part time usage” I have not personally done testing on only running a UV part time I.E. 12hrs on and 12hrs off, however Bulk Reef Supply makes suggestions that it is almost pointless and I tend to think the same.

One thing to keep in mind is the yearly maintenance cost for replacing O-rings, bulbs, seals, sleeves / liners (if replaceable). I also recommend checking around to make sure parts are readily available for the unit you are looking to purchase. What happens if the Quartz sleeve breaks? or the ballast goes out? can you buy those separately? What happens if you upgrade tanks and need to replumb it can you replace the end caps / fitting? No matter which unit you choose I highly recommend keeping up with the proper yearly maintenance to ensure your UV is always working optimally. Typically, after a year of use the bulbs output has been reduced by roughly 20-30% which is normally accounted for in the advertised rating of the unit but this is not always the case on cheaper units.

Of course keep in mind the overall size / dimensions of the unit. Will it fit where you need it to? Will you be able to remove it from your system semi-easily for its yearly maintenance? Does the unit come with mounting hardware or do you have to purchase that separately? Surprising most units do not come with a way to mount them. Do the fittings provide flexibility for different mounting options? What is the diameter of the housing? The larger the housing diameter the longer the contact time. The longer the contact time the better chances the UV will kill what you are trying to kill. Some companies use 2" housings some use 3"- 5" housing. Don’t get hung up on the input and output sizes as you can just reduce the fittings down to accommodate your current plumbing diameter. A 2” output can easily be reduced to 3/4'” pipe / hose (standard return sizing).

Keep in mind that the very components that the sterilizer is built out of (PVC) is also affected by the UV light. Most quality units are built out of UV resistant PVC, keyword is "resistant". Cheap units aren’t even built using UV resistant PVC. Some units have replaceable PVC liners protecting the actual housing. Some have lifetime warranties on the housings. Keep in mind most all warranties apply to the original owner with proof of purchase. Do you want to spend the extra time to replace liners yearly? or deal with possibly replacing the entire housing IF it should ever fail from UV exposer. I do suggest staying away from units not utilizing UV resistant PVC or units utilizing poor quality overseas PVC. As the UV exposure will quickly start breaking down the PVC and cause it to leech into your aquarium which can wreak havoc on your fish and corals.

Now, that is out of the way here is what "I" like and why "I" choose it. I choose the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX high output Amalgam 90watt unit for my 300+ gallon system. Cost was $396, it is a high-quality unit, all replacement parts are available, has replaceable PVC liners unlike most units on the market. The power supply has a countdown day meter (kind of like a reverse hour meter) that lets you know when it’s time to service the unit (no other unit has this feature). I also really like how the input and outputs can swivel which makes the mounting and plumbing options extremely flexible. I also like the low yearly maintenance cost, the fact it includes hardware to mount the unit, and it has an Amalgam bulb which maintains its light output better than standard bulbs.

Below are some price comparisons on actual UV sterilizers, yearly maintenance cost and spare parts. I obtained these prices from Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply, and Amazon. Pricing and availability may change and you may be able to find better pricing if shopping around at pond supply shops, online lighting shops or even purchasing your yearly supplies during Black Friday sales. Also keep in mind there are many other sizes, options and suppliers, these are just some of the more common units used on larger aquariums.

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's pricing.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $274
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $396
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $643

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $399
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $739
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $779

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $436
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $476
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $756

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's yearly maintenance cost.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $74 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $84 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $109 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $108 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $100 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $110 includes bulb and O-rings

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $95 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $73 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $190 includes 2 bulb and O-rings

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's cost to replace the ballast or the Quartz sleeve.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $35
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $38
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3"Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $43

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt Ballast $133, Quartz sleeve $46

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt Ballast $107-$154, Quartz sleeve $84
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $51
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt Ballast $161, Quartz sleeve $168

I also want to note you may want to look into if the UV's power supplies have any known issues running through GFCI power outlets. I have read a lot of complaints lately that the Pentair's power supplies continually trip GFCI outlets every few hours. I would also take a few bad reviews as a grain of salt as more people tend to leave reviews when things aren’t working right rather than when everything is perfect.

Below is an old picture of a 360 watt UV that I use to run many moons ago. You will notice how you can actually see the UV light through the tubes because they have gotten so thin over the years of UV exposer. You will also see how repairs had to be made because the tubes got paper thin and they started leaking. This is one of the reasons why I like the replaceable sleeves on the Lifegard Pro-Max units.

I hope you Guys and Gals fine this little write up helpful in making a choice on the right UV for your application.

Can confirm, Pentair trips GFCI.

Cory · Sep 8, 2020

MarineREEFpassion said:
Mine has done a better job at algae control than my huge Pentair 120w that I had. I think they all inflate their specs. It’s a trial and error thing like most things are in this hobby lol. What works great for one system may not work as well or at all for another’s.

Whats your flow rate through it? Ive got the 90 watt version.

Zionas · Sep 8, 2020

I’m not going for any particularly disease prone fish in my tank but I’m getting a UV sterilizer for some peace of mind anyway.

By the way does anyone have experience with a Chinese brand of UV sterilizers called Songbao? It’s the one my LFS selected for me.

K7BMG · Sep 8, 2020

Zionas said:
I’m not going for any particularly disease prone fish in my tank but I’m getting a UV sterilizer for some peace of mind anyway.

By the way does anyone have experience with a Chinese brand of UV sterilizers called Songbao? It’s the one my LFS selected for me.

Never heard of that brand.
I use a Lifeguard.
Chinese owned and made I have to say I would question.

Badilac · Sep 8, 2020

Zionas said:
I’m not going for any particularly disease prone fish in my tank but I’m getting a UV sterilizer for some peace of mind anyway.

By the way does anyone have experience with a Chinese brand of UV sterilizers called Songbao? It’s the one my LFS selected for me.

Never heard of it. I would be careful with Chinese units. I would see if you can get parts, see if they are easily purchased, etc.

Badilac · Sep 8, 2020

CEReefer said:
Why is there such a big difference in terms of "declared performance" between AquaUV and Lifegard?

- Lifegard ProMax 90W has a declared flow of 2800gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)
- AquaUV Classic 40 Watt has a declared flow of 2900gph for treating Algae & Bacteria (UVC 30,000 μW/cm2)

Now, how can a unit that's half the size do the same job? Is someone "cheating" on numbers? Is someone using a better lamp/quartz sleeve? (I know there is some differences in the kind of those, but not sure it justify doubling the performance)..

What are your thoughts?

My thoughts are "fake news" from Aqua

Zionas · Sep 8, 2020

China, exporting trash and holding democracies economic hostage since the 1990s!

thefort15 · Oct 13, 2020

Badilac said:
With the recent buzz around UV Sterilizers thanks to a few videos from industry giants I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most people purchase what these industry leaders push / sell which is fine and dandy, but I suggest everyone do their own research.

When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you are trying to control in your aquarium. Typically, most people select a UV to control either Algae (of various kinds) or parasites (of various kinds). Make sure you do not select a unit that is too undersized to do the job you are selecting the UV for. Also keep in mind selecting a very large unit could cause a lot of unwanted heat in your aquarium. UV's are essentially heaters that are on ALL the time unlike a normal heater that cycles on and off to regulate the temp. One other thing I see discussed from time to time is “part time usage” I have not personally done testing on only running a UV part time I.E. 12hrs on and 12hrs off, however Bulk Reef Supply makes suggestions that it is almost pointless and I tend to think the same.

One thing to keep in mind is the yearly maintenance cost for replacing O-rings, bulbs, seals, sleeves / liners (if replaceable). I also recommend checking around to make sure parts are readily available for the unit you are looking to purchase. What happens if the Quartz sleeve breaks? or the ballast goes out? can you buy those separately? What happens if you upgrade tanks and need to replumb it can you replace the end caps / fitting? No matter which unit you choose I highly recommend keeping up with the proper yearly maintenance to ensure your UV is always working optimally. Typically, after a year of use the bulbs output has been reduced by roughly 20-30% which is normally accounted for in the advertised rating of the unit but this is not always the case on cheaper units.

Of course keep in mind the overall size / dimensions of the unit. Will it fit where you need it to? Will you be able to remove it from your system semi-easily for its yearly maintenance? Does the unit come with mounting hardware or do you have to purchase that separately? Surprising most units do not come with a way to mount them. Do the fittings provide flexibility for different mounting options? What is the diameter of the housing? The larger the housing diameter the longer the contact time. The longer the contact time the better chances the UV will kill what you are trying to kill. Some companies use 2" housings some use 3"- 5" housing. Don’t get hung up on the input and output sizes as you can just reduce the fittings down to accommodate your current plumbing diameter. A 2” output can easily be reduced to 3/4'” pipe / hose (standard return sizing).

Keep in mind that the very components that the sterilizer is built out of (PVC) is also affected by the UV light. Most quality units are built out of UV resistant PVC, keyword is "resistant". Cheap units aren’t even built using UV resistant PVC. Some units have replaceable PVC liners protecting the actual housing. Some have lifetime warranties on the housings. Keep in mind most all warranties apply to the original owner with proof of purchase. Do you want to spend the extra time to replace liners yearly? or deal with possibly replacing the entire housing IF it should ever fail from UV exposer. I do suggest staying away from units not utilizing UV resistant PVC or units utilizing poor quality overseas PVC. As the UV exposure will quickly start breaking down the PVC and cause it to leech into your aquarium which can wreak havoc on your fish and corals.

Now, that is out of the way here is what "I" like and why "I" choose it. I choose the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX high output Amalgam 90watt unit for my 300+ gallon system. Cost was $396, it is a high-quality unit, all replacement parts are available, has replaceable PVC liners unlike most units on the market. The power supply has a countdown day meter (kind of like a reverse hour meter) that lets you know when it’s time to service the unit (no other unit has this feature). I also really like how the input and outputs can swivel which makes the mounting and plumbing options extremely flexible. I also like the low yearly maintenance cost, the fact it includes hardware to mount the unit, and it has an Amalgam bulb which maintains its light output better than standard bulbs.

Below are some price comparisons on actual UV sterilizers, yearly maintenance cost and spare parts. I obtained these prices from Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply, and Amazon. Pricing and availability may change and you may be able to find better pricing if shopping around at pond supply shops, online lighting shops or even purchasing your yearly supplies during Black Friday sales. Also keep in mind there are many other sizes, options and suppliers, these are just some of the more common units used on larger aquariums.

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's pricing.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $274
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $396
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $643

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $399
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $739
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $779

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $436
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $476
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $756

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's yearly maintenance cost.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $74 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $84 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $109 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $108 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $100 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $110 includes bulb and O-rings

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $95 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $73 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $190 includes 2 bulb and O-rings

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's cost to replace the ballast or the Quartz sleeve.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $35
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $38
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3"Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $43

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt Ballast $133, Quartz sleeve $46

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt Ballast $107-$154, Quartz sleeve $84
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $51
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt Ballast $161, Quartz sleeve $168

I also want to note you may want to look into if the UV's power supplies have any known issues running through GFCI power outlets. I have read a lot of complaints lately that the Pentair's power supplies continually trip GFCI outlets every few hours. I would also take a few bad reviews as a grain of salt as more people tend to leave reviews when things aren’t working right rather than when everything is perfect.

Below is an old picture of a 360 watt UV that I use to run many moons ago. You will notice how you can actually see the UV light through the tubes because they have gotten so thin over the years of UV exposer. You will also see how repairs had to be made because the tubes got paper thin and they started leaking. This is one of the reasons why I like the replaceable sleeves on the Lifegard Pro-Max units.

I hope you Guys and Gals fine this little write up helpful in making a choice on the right UV for your application.

In the process of selecting a UV Sterilizer for my system. This information was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time and putting this together.

Chayo · Dec 11, 2020

Looking to purchase a UV unit to combat dinos, I have a 125 gallon with 30 gallon sump. Wondering what size LifeGard UV to purchase and what pump to purchase to go with it. Wondering if I can use soft tubing as I am not experienced at all with hard plumbing. or maybe a Aqua UV brand as well. My head keeps spinning with all the brands out and sizes. thanks all for the help

Cory · Dec 11, 2020

Chayo said:
Looking to purchase a UV unit to combat dinos, I have a 125 gallon with 30 gallon sump. Wondering what size LifeGard UV to purchase and what pump to purchase to go with it. Wondering if I can use soft tubing as I am not experienced at all with hard plumbing. or maybe a Aqua UV brand as well. My head keeps spinning with all the brands out and sizes. thanks all for the help

Im using lifegard. Its been great. I have the same size tank as you and i got a 90 watt lifegard i run off my return pump which is pushing about 900 gph through the uv. No more dinos. Would i buy another uv? Nope im happy with this one. Hard plumbing is easy but you can use soft pipes if needed.

Badilac · Dec 11, 2020

Cory said:
Im using lifegard. Its been great. I have the same size tank as you and i got a 90 watt lifegard i run off my return pump which is pushing about 900 gph through the uv. No more dinos. Would i buy another uv? Nope im happy with this one. Hard plumbing is easy but you can use soft pipes if needed.

I agree. I use soft plumbing. You can run 55watt Lifegard or 90watt

Chayo · Dec 11, 2020

Badilac said:
I agree. I use soft plumbing. You can run 55watt Lifegard or 90watt

Thanks, I think the 90 watt may be too big and outta budget Sadly

I’m leaning towards pulling the trigger on a 55watt. Do you mind sharing how/what tubing to use? Can I use metal clamps to secure? What pump/flow rate should I be targeting. I currently have a cheapo coralife uv that I have running in the display. Isn’t getting the job done Unfortunately.