UV Sterilizers, which unit to choose and why?

[Biff0rz]

This thread is long and I admittedly have not read through it all. What size tank are you UV-ing?
I run 36-watt UVs at 400 gph through 3/4" pipe on 90-gallon tanks, and that kills EVERYTHING quite well.

I should stress that when you have that much head height (1.5 meters or so), you will need a 1200 gph pump to move 400 gph through 3/4 pipe.

233g, for dinos today and maybe forever lol. It's a 90w lifeguard uv. It'll need at least 1" piping. If I can mount the UV below the tank in the stand and run the pipe externally pulling water in I'll be able to do this in closed loop. My return line is only 3/4" and is the max size the tank is drilled for, so I'll not get near the 2800gph flow rate the mfg calls for, so I don't want to put this inline w the return pump. I'll be pumping about 40" upwards from the pump so about 1m if mounted in the stand.

 

[Biff0rz]

This is a fairly cheap piping setup I have used to experiment with exactly what you are attempting.

Ok nice, I was going to make everything out of 1" pvc. I don't think that'll work unless it's 1"+ in diameter, I'll take a look, thx

 

[KyOsIBa515]

I have not read most of this thread. However, I did read the write up. Very well written.

UV has been an ongoing debate for years. If it is more harmful than good. I have always used a UV for parasite control in the water column. Since its use I haven’t had an outbreak in my tank.

Being I am not concerned with algae control and as crucial contact time is needed. I undersize mine to stay away from heat a little. However

I run this Vecton. Nice UV for the size and money.

 

[Biff0rz]

That would be no different than the typical canister filter piping system. You just have to make sure the pickup/input side of the plumbing sits well below the water line, including how low it goes during water changes.
Once primed, the system would only lose prime if there's a break, then you have a bigger mess anyway!

So I have my UV setup, basically the pump is on the floor past the UV sucking then pushing water up into the tank. Thing is, I'm not really sure how to prime the system. I thought about placing a smaller tube inside my piping and hooking it up to a pump so it fills the system, not sure that will work though. I think I need a way to vent the air out past the pump, right?

 

[DaddyFish]

So I have my UV setup, basically the pump is on the floor past the UV sucking then pushing water up into the tank. Thing is, I'm not really sure how to prime the system. I thought about placing a smaller tube inside my piping and hooking it up to a pump so it fills the system, not sure that will work though. I think I need a way to vent the air out past the pump, right?

If you construct a "hook" hard tubing arrangement using a tee on the outside of the tank and a threaded cap on the upper connector, you can unscrew the caps, fill the system and then replace the caps. Give me a minute to sketch something.

Earlier you asked about the SunSun piping that I posted. It is not 1", it's 3/4".

A picture is worth a thousand words. This is the SunSun HW-3000 setup, which IMO is the absolute best I've seen in the canister world. You can remove the caps and blue inserts to prime the system or clean the tubing. The blue insert with the crossed finger flanges is also a flow adjustment which can be used in either the pickup or return side. Problem is the only way to get it is to buy the HW-3000 filter which is a "gonna leak eventually" Chinese disaster.

You could construct something similar using a threaded tee, a short nipple for the horizontal section, an elbow, and a threaded plug up top.

 

[Biff0rz]

If you construct a "hook" hard tubing arrangement using a tee on the outside of the tank and a threaded cap on the upper connector, you can unscrew the caps, fill the system and then replace the caps. Give me a minute to sketch something.

Earlier you asked about the SunSun piping that I posted. It is not 1", it's 3/4".

A picture is worth a thousand words. This is the SunSun HW-3000 setup, which IMO is the absolute best I've seen in the canister world. You can remove the caps and blue inserts to prime the system or clean the tubing. The blue insert with the crossed finger flanges is also a flow adjustment which can be used in either the pickup or return side. Problem is the only way to get it is to buy the HW-3000 filter which is a "gonna leak eventually" Chinese disaster.

You could construct something similar using a threaded tee, a short nipple for the horizontal section, an elbow, and a threaded plug up top.

Thanks! I should be able to make this from parts

 

[Jeffcb]

A lot to read but., got an A U 57w today. Runa 800 gph pump. .....

 

[t5Nitro]

Looking at the lifegard pro max 55 watt or the aqua UV 57 watt.

Id like to use my spare pump to supply water to it. Its a lifegard quiet one pro 1200 rated at 317 gph. Is this too low of flow for water clarity and algae?

 

[metzer]

Looking at the lifegard pro max 55 watt or the aqua UV 57 watt.

Id like to use my spare pump to supply water to it. Its a lifegard quiet one pro 1200 rated at 317 gph. Is this too low of flow for water clarity and algae?

the BRS website has the flow listings per UV for at least Pentair UVs, I am unsure on lifegard pro.

 

[MarineREEFpassion]

Looking at the lifegard pro max 55 watt or the aqua UV 57 watt.

Id like to use my spare pump to supply water to it. Its a lifegard quiet one pro 1200 rated at 317 gph. Is this too low of flow for water clarity and algae?

If it’s the HO amalgam bulb light I have the same one. It keeps my 200 gallon setup clear and clean.

 

[t5Nitro]

If it’s the HO amalgam bulb light I have the same one. It keeps my 200 gallon setup clear and clean.

It is. Its the pro max 55 watt amalgam bulb. I see that Amazon has them. Maybe overkill for my 75 then but ill be upgrading to a 225 in about a year ish

 

[MarineREEFpassion]

It is. Its the pro max 55 watt amalgam bulb. I see that Amazon has them. Maybe overkill for my 75 then but ill be upgrading to a 225 in about a year ish

If your upgrading soon definitely get the 55 so your not spending double the money later to get a bigger one then. Overkill is ok for what the UV lights do in my opinion. I started off with a 100w pentair for about six months before I gave it to my grandparents for their pond so I could get my Lifegard Aquatics 55w.

 

[t5Nitro]

the BRS website has the flow listings per UV for at least Pentair UVs, I am unsure on lifegard pro.

Seems reasonable. The pentair 40 has a minimum flow rate at 157, according to BRS.

 

[gobble]

The Aqua UV 57W was $476 when you wrote this a year ago and now it's $620???

 

[New&no clue]

With the recent buzz around UV Sterilizers thanks to a few videos from industry giants I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most people purchase what these industry leaders push / sell which is fine and dandy, but I suggest everyone do their own research.

When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you are trying to control in your aquarium. Typically, most people select a UV to control either Algae (of various kinds) or parasites (of various kinds). Make sure you do not select a unit that is too undersized to do the job you are selecting the UV for. Also keep in mind selecting a very large unit could cause a lot of unwanted heat in your aquarium. UV's are essentially heaters that are on ALL the time unlike a normal heater that cycles on and off to regulate the temp. One other thing I see discussed from time to time is “part time usage” I have not personally done testing on only running a UV part time I.E. 12hrs on and 12hrs off, however Bulk Reef Supply makes suggestions that it is almost pointless and I tend to think the same.

One thing to keep in mind is the yearly maintenance cost for replacing O-rings, bulbs, seals, sleeves / liners (if replaceable). I also recommend checking around to make sure parts are readily available for the unit you are looking to purchase. What happens if the Quartz sleeve breaks? or the ballast goes out? can you buy those separately? What happens if you upgrade tanks and need to replumb it can you replace the end caps / fitting? No matter which unit you choose I highly recommend keeping up with the proper yearly maintenance to ensure your UV is always working optimally. Typically, after a year of use the bulbs output has been reduced by roughly 20-30% which is normally accounted for in the advertised rating of the unit but this is not always the case on cheaper units.

Of course keep in mind the overall size / dimensions of the unit. Will it fit where you need it to? Will you be able to remove it from your system semi-easily for its yearly maintenance? Does the unit come with mounting hardware or do you have to purchase that separately? Surprising most units do not come with a way to mount them. Do the fittings provide flexibility for different mounting options? What is the diameter of the housing? The larger the housing diameter the longer the contact time. The longer the contact time the better chances the UV will kill what you are trying to kill. Some companies use 2" housings some use 3"- 5" housing. Don’t get hung up on the input and output sizes as you can just reduce the fittings down to accommodate your current plumbing diameter. A 2” output can easily be reduced to 3/4'” pipe / hose (standard return sizing).

Keep in mind that the very components that the sterilizer is built out of (PVC) is also affected by the UV light. Most quality units are built out of UV resistant PVC, keyword is "resistant". Cheap units aren’t even built using UV resistant PVC. Some units have replaceable PVC liners protecting the actual housing. Some have lifetime warranties on the housings. Keep in mind most all warranties apply to the original owner with proof of purchase. Do you want to spend the extra time to replace liners yearly? or deal with possibly replacing the entire housing IF it should ever fail from UV exposer. I do suggest staying away from units not utilizing UV resistant PVC or units utilizing poor quality overseas PVC. As the UV exposure will quickly start breaking down the PVC and cause it to leech into your aquarium which can wreak havoc on your fish and corals.

Now, that is out of the way here is what "I" like and why "I" choose it. I choose the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX high output Amalgam 90watt unit for my 300+ gallon system. Cost was $396, it is a high-quality unit, all replacement parts are available, has replaceable PVC liners unlike most units on the market. The power supply has a countdown day meter (kind of like a reverse hour meter) that lets you know when it’s time to service the unit (no other unit has this feature). I also really like how the input and outputs can swivel which makes the mounting and plumbing options extremely flexible. I also like the low yearly maintenance cost, the fact it includes hardware to mount the unit, and it has an Amalgam bulb which maintains its light output better than standard bulbs.

Below are some price comparisons on actual UV sterilizers, yearly maintenance cost and spare parts. I obtained these prices from Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply, and Amazon. Pricing and availability may change and you may be able to find better pricing if shopping around at pond supply shops, online lighting shops or even purchasing your yearly supplies during Black Friday sales. Also keep in mind there are many other sizes, options and suppliers, these are just some of the more common units used on larger aquariums.


Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's pricing.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $274
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $396
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $643

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $399
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $739
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $779

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $436
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $476
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $756



Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's yearly maintenance cost.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $74 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $84 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $109 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $108 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $100 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $110 includes bulb and O-rings

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $95 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $73 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $190 includes 2 bulb and O-rings

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's cost to replace the ballast or the Quartz sleeve.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $35
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $38
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3"Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $43

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt Ballast $133, Quartz sleeve $46

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt Ballast $107-$154, Quartz sleeve $84
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $51
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt Ballast $161, Quartz sleeve $168


I also want to note you may want to look into if the UV's power supplies have any known issues running through GFCI power outlets. I have read a lot of complaints lately that the Pentair's power supplies continually trip GFCI outlets every few hours. I would also take a few bad reviews as a grain of salt as more people tend to leave reviews when things aren’t working right rather than when everything is perfect.

Below is an old picture of a 360 watt UV that I use to run many moons ago. You will notice how you can actually see the UV light through the tubes because they have gotten so thin over the years of UV exposer. You will also see how repairs had to be made because the tubes got paper thin and they started leaking. This is one of the reasons why I like the replaceable sleeves on the Lifegard Pro-Max units.

I hope you Guys and Gals fine this little write up helpful in making a choice on the right UV for your application.

Great write-up and thread. I've read through all seven pages, and there is some great information in here. Being a year and a half later, I'd love to know how it is working out for you?

 

[t5Nitro]

I ended up getting the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt because of this thread. Bulb has about 120 days left on it before it needs changed. I run it nearly 24/7 with exception of a few hours dosing live phyto. Keeps the water crystal clear.

 

[New&no clue]

I ended up getting the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt because of this thread. Bulb has about 120 days left on it before it needs changed. I run it nearly 24/7 with exception of a few hours dosing live phyto. Keeps the water crystal clear.

What size tank do you have?

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

Oversized Pentair UV at low flow. No fish parasites since installed... any other benefit or detriment is ancillary and minor enough to be non-consequential IMO.

 

[ScottB]

Great write-up and thread. I've read through all seven pages, and there is some great information in here. Being a year and a half later, I'd love to know how it is working out for you?

Very cool you are continuing to research.

@Badilac posted last end of August. Maybe a PM will cross his/her radar better.

 

[New&no clue]

Very cool you are continuing to research.

@Badilac posted last end of August. Maybe a PM will cross his/her radar better.

Yes, I’m between the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt and the Pentair Aquatics 80 watt. Obviously the price of the Lifeguard is more desirable, and the dimensions are better as well. Overall it seems comparable with the Pentair. However, I can’t find a lot of reviews.