UV suggestions for Ostreopsis- nano 12 gallon

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BanjoBandito

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Looks like I pulled a case of the dinos....anyone wanna suggest a decent nano UV? Or confirm it’s ostreopsis? I’m like 99% sure. Thanks!

929CBEC0-8A4E-4033-B37C-5B006C9F2B57.jpeg F03C860B-356F-4C00-A48D-8F89CD78B7EA.jpeg
 

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BanjoBandito

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Ya know I looked at the HOB with built in UV and was real close to pulling the trigger....I wonder if they are “good”? I’m considering getting a coral life in line mini and hooking it up to a spare pump. I have a couple 50 gph and I think like a 120-150 gph sitting around and just plopping it in the tank.
 
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I had a green machine on my flowerhorn tank (freshwater) but I’m pretty sure the bulb is burnt but I have no idea how to tell and I don’t have a two prong screwdriver....I got it last April and ran it fairly consistently in that FW tank.
 

Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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Looks like I pulled a case of the dinos....anyone wanna suggest a decent nano UV? Or confirm it’s ostreopsis? I’m like 99% sure. Thanks!

929CBEC0-8A4E-4033-B37C-5B006C9F2B57.jpeg F03C860B-356F-4C00-A48D-8F89CD78B7EA.jpeg
I read your topic title, and wish to help out. I own two 12 gallon AIO systems. I did a lot of homework before I found the best UV for my smaller tanks. I went with the Coralife 5 watt UV on both my tanks. They are connected to Sicce pumps, 1.0 to give me just below the GPH recommendation.

My tanks have been running since January 2021 so about 5 months. I added the UV systems after about 2 months of operating them. Since then, neither has had any outbreak of Dino's, just clean blue water.

I feel that the UV in both systems, simply helps keep numbers in check, unwanted algae/bacteria's are always present in the water column but they don't have the opportunity to go viral for explosion, since they pass through UV 100 percent.

Here is the page when I added it to my system, may it help you out.

 
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BanjoBandito

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I read your topic title, and wish to help out. I own two 12 gallon AIO systems. I did a lot of homework before I found the best UV for my smaller tanks. I went with the Coralife 5 watt UV on both my tanks. They are connected to Sicce pumps, 1.0 to give me just below the GPH recommendation.

My tanks have been running since January 2021 so about 5 months. I added the UV systems after about 2 months of operating them. Since then, neither has had any outbreak of Dino's, just clean blue water.

I feel that the UV in both systems, simply helps keep numbers in check, unwanted algae/bacteria's are always present in the water column but they don't have the opportunity to go viral for explosion, since they pass through UV 100 percent.

Here is the page when I added it to my system, may it help you out.

I can get way under your GPH this is invaluable information. Thank you!
 

brandon429

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In a 12 gallon nothing will beat a rip clean for fixing them. Quick, thorough, here's one recently but was used for cyano. Same outcome with dino:


Take system apart, clean it, put back everything but the dino. It's less stressful for corals than extended treatments of any kind. Identification of any invasion wouldn't matter they're all easily excluded during rebuild. That job above was ten times harder than yours would be.

They're not harmful, each time a nano is cleaned it lives longer and the corals boost due to new avaliable feed input.
 

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I can get way under your GPH this is invaluable information. Thank you!
Awesome! My Sicce does 257gph and it's on a 90 elbow plus, diffuser directional nozzle so I am bringing the GPH down at least another 60gph. You are not to exceed 300 gph for the 5watt UV so clearly I am below that mark.

It was between the Biocube Coralife 5watt or the JBJ nano zap 3watt UV. I went with the biocube, I got more wattage in UV and they were the same price. They are making a difference in my two systems. Check out my last entry in my thread I have couple videos to show you how clear my waters are and take a look at the live rock to give you an idea of clarity.
 
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Quick update:
In a 12 gallon nothing will beat a rip clean for fixing them. Quick, thorough, here's one recently but was used for cyano. Same outcome with dino:


Take system apart, clean it, put back everything but the dino. It's less stressful for corals than extended treatments of any kind. Identification of any invasion wouldn't matter they're all easily excluded during rebuild. That job above was ten times harder than yours would be.

They're not harmful, each time a nano is cleaned it lives longer and the corals boost due to new avaliable feed input.
COME OVER AND HELP ME! lol.
 
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I thought I'd update, I ran a UV for approx 4-5 days and dosed 3x dino X. It got 95% of the dinos.

My xenia and cyphestrea corals did not enjoy the dino x and got a lil' beat up. It wiped out my bob marley zoas and put my poochster frag on the ropes. Oddly, my pinwheel zoas have tripled in size. Coral is weird.

I saw a lil' dino back in (just a few bubbles on my upper rocks once I boosted my blue light to 45%/White to 10%) so I started back up the UV sans dino X treatment. We'll see.

My main concern with the tank rip, I mean other than the HASSLE, is that in order to insure no dinos exist I would have to some how treat the rocks, which I think would wipe out all my beneficial bacteria. I'm already seeing some light ammonia spikes after wiping out most of the dinos?
 
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brandon429

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in the linked example he's spraying peroxide on the rocks, that'll do

be sure and read that link, the lifespan of your entire nano reef is on the line. we should replicate his steps

my concern is if we dont copy the link you might incompletely wash your sand, that'd be bad. as you can see there we either remove sand entirely, or we put back sand rinsed so well it has zero percent clouding but we never put back sand that has some clouding still left in it.

you might wonder how to rinse sand to attain zero percent clouding, and not kill its bacteria. We show above that removing the sand and all the bacteria doesnt even matter, so rinse creatively. I use the bathtup output and a big bucket of cloudy sand rinsed to perfection, final rinse in ro. That example link prior was removal of the whole sandbed, he's not putting one back in for a while. reefs are not linked to their sandbeds, they're removable so make your sand cloudless any way you want to attain that outcome. tap water and then a final rinse in RO is best.



dinos like to hide there, this is a good plan for your nano.

post pics of your reef
 
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I've ID ostreopsis dinoflagellates, but I think I have small cell amp running around too. It's lightened up dramatically from the rocks, but is showing up on the sand now worse than before. It's not to "infestation" levels, but I want to be pro-active.
 

brandon429

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hey neat. that's such an easy job compared to the large tanks we do stacked with clams and ten grand in sps. the exact steps are, trust meh:

catch animals and hold in clean saltwater outside treatment area, say in a bucket or something and match temp and salinity to current water. we're getting rid of old water and its cells a floating, ideally

now the tank is only rocks, water and sand

be removing rocks as you catch animals and set the rocks alone in a different bucket not with fish, any legit holding device with clean sw in it

take the tank apart and either ditch the sand for all new or use this current sand, both old and new sand will get tap water rinsed in a bucket for about an hour to total clarity, final rinse in RO. I just did this Sunday nite for my 16year old nano reef for the zillionth time, these are longevity cheats they're not harmful.

I had the small five pound bag of ocean direct from petsmart

pre rinsed in a bucket took about an hour to clean...fill, stir w spatula, dump topwater mud over and over eventually its crystal clean and you need minor drain work lol

final rinse in ro

clean the tank out with the peroxide as it sits totally empty...all pumps, lines.

The number one way this method fails is when they dont pre rinse sand to clarity, five mere pounds took me an hour, expect to spend two just on the prep sand rinse, dont put back clouding it wrecks all our precision work.

the tank is perfectly clean glass now, input the sand and all new water matching temp and salinity to the old water and the holding buckets.

take rocks and swish them about in their container of holding, get off the major clumps/rub them off etc and swish.

take cleanish rocks spray in peroxide with a mister bottle, rinse off after about 1 min of contact, this wont harm your biofilter its too short dwell and they're on a bazillion surfaces insulated in slime.

put clean rocks back into tank, corals then fish. fish still have dinos stuck to the slime coats, but now the mass is 1% of original. Your tank will be laser see-through clear.
directly feed the corals the next few days as a CPR pump, be changing about a gallon or two of water for fresh to export this out, and that brings them back out open polyps in full force within 48 hours after the deep clean.


*lower your lights do not run full intensity first few days, slowly ramp up.

this is a rip clean. its barbaric and awesome.

in a week or so if you have minor growths on sand, expected for new tank, this time hand siphon it out when its small vs allow buildup. See how we realign it from a large mass to a gone mass, fighting regrowth with no community support? that's key, the big attack initially.
 
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brandon429

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there are ways to guide that reef without a rip clean, this isnt even that bad above.

but

doing a rip clean and learning that type of control over the reef will save its life one day, you should practice now before it has a grand in coral in it.

you can still run them with a grand in coral in them, we do rip cleans on tanks with ten thousand dollars in sps alone and they're logged in the sand rinse thread.

this is practice in total reef control. thats the #1 benefit of a nano, no invasion can win once you leverage the easy disassembly cheat button. learning to trust your cycle to complete manhandling of the surfaces will save your nano reef one day when its gandalf old. if your tank was 350 gallons the ID would help tremendously because we can only act through the water. on 12 gallons the invader genus or sp does not matter, they're about to get a texas twister event.
 
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there are ways to guide that reef without a rip clean, this isnt even that bad above.

but

doing a rip clean and learning that type of control over the reef will save its life one day, you should practice now before it has a grand in coral in it.

you can still run them with a grand in coral in them, we do rip cleans on tanks with ten thousand dollars in sps alone and they're logged in the sand rinse thread.

this is practice in total reef control. thats the #1 benefit of a nano, no invasion can win once you leverage the easy disassembly cheat button.
This all started when I lost my MASSIVE population of pods and isopods, I think he threw me all out of whack. I pride myself in being barbaric. Gimme a day or two to stew on this...if it doesn't clear up by the weekend...we might pull a hero move. Thanks. I'll be searching you down if I decide to do this!!!!

I'd love to aquascape again, not because I "HATE" my rock work, it's just tough to clean around. My main concern is I have some corals already encrusting on rocks, while it won't kill them to be removed...it hurts my pride. lol.
 

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hey let me at least post two more sick rip cleans, the best iVe seen. 30 gallon nanos:

helps in final preps.
 

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look how jacked the tanks were before surgery

one of them got back to some algae growth, because that was allowed. they're using dry rocks with no coralline, we expect big work. u dont get cruise control till that purple shows up and covers all. dry rocking has a price but its sustainable too, I can't even find local live rock much anymore ever unless someone took down a tank for sale.

see how we make the clean condition upon will, that's so slick. agreed add pods in the clean condition, post rip. algaebarn

if you ever wanted to make anti Dinos params, N and P balance

that's done in the clean condition, not the invaded one. see they're all growback fighters this way. we zap the mass to zilch, then align against it. when internet nerds do this, they see themselves as the mighty 300 spartans it feels great lol.
 
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look how jacked the tanks were before surgery

one of them got back to some algae growth, because that was allowed. they're using dry rocks with no coralline, we expect big work. u dont get cruise control till that purple shows up and covers all. dry rocking has a price but its sustainable too, I can't even find local live rock much anymore ever unless someone took down a tank for sale.

see how we make the clean condition upon will, that's so slick. agreed add pods in the clean condition, post rip. algaebarn

if you ever wanted to make anti Dinos params, N and P balance

that's done in the clean condition, not the invaded one. see they're all growback fighters this way
That's what I wanted to ask you, I have a good bit of coralline growing....will it all be killed/removed?
 
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