Velvet? Originally thought ich. Need a game plan.

[biokeeper]

Hi all,
Just looking for someone to confirm my suspicions and help me move forward.

The photo of the Tomini was taken a few weeks ago, initially thought it was ich. The few white spots have since disappeared on their own.

One of the clownfish is now looking in rough shape. However, this seems to be velvet. Anyone want to confirm?



Whats the best course of action from here? I have 15 fish in my 150g. I have a 30g and a 40 breeder in the garage that I could use for QT/treatments. My concern is that I won’t be able to keep up with the bio load of all these fish and they will end up with ammonia issues.

I have been lucky so far with this outbreak and haven’t lost any fish over the course of 1-2 weeks since first signs of issue.

Any thoughts/input is appreciated

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all,
Just looking for someone to confirm my suspicions and help me move forward.

The photo of the Tomini was taken a few weeks ago, initially thought it was ich. The few white spots have since disappeared on their own.

One of the clownfish is now looking in rough shape. However, this seems to be velvet. Anyone want to confirm?



Whats the best course of action from here? I have 15 fish in my 150g. I have a 30g and a 40 breeder in the garage that I could use for QT/treatments. My concern is that I won’t be able to keep up with the bio load of all these fish and they will end up with ammonia issues.

I have been lucky so far with this outbreak and haven’t lost any fish over the course of 1-2 weeks since first signs of issue.

Any thoughts/input is appreciated

Clown has brooklynella and Tomini has mucus plugs associated with marine ich
Problem here is two different fish and two different treatments. Tomini should be treated in separart tank with either hyposalinity (salt at 1.009 or 2.0 level coppersafe) and for clown- The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment. .. in yet a seperate tank is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

I recommend leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

 

[Jay Hemdal]

The tang seems to have had mucus plugs - they look like ich but larger and are caused by stress. Ich is often mixed in with them, but doesn’t seem like it in this case since they went away.
Can you get a video posted of the clowns? I’d like to see their respiration rate - they could either have late stage velvet or the early stages of Brooklynella.
Jay

 

[biokeeper]

The tang seems to have had mucus plugs - they look like ich but larger and are caused by stress. Ich is often mixed in with them, but doesn’t seem like it in this case since they went away.
Can you get a video posted of the clowns? I’d like to see their respiration rate - they could either have late stage velvet or the early stages of Brooklynella.
Jay

I was only able to get video of the worse looking clown. The other’s respirations are not nearly as high as this one’s and he doesn’t look nearly as bad (yet).

Between copper and hypo, is one or the other more effective? Less stressful?

Video doesn’t seem to be loading via mobile, I’ll try from pc in a bit

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I was only able to get video of the worse looking clown. The other’s respirations are not nearly as high as this one’s and he doesn’t look nearly as bad (yet).

Between copper and hypo, is one or the other more effective? Less stressful?

Video doesn’t seem to be loading via mobile, I’ll try from pc in a bit

I can't say with 100% certainty, but this looks like velvet to me. Hypo won't work for that, only copper. some people use 100 ppm hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes as a dip before moving the fish to a treatment tank.

Jay

 

[biokeeper]

I can't say with 100% certainty, but this looks like velvet to me. Hypo won't work for that, only copper. some people use 100 ppm hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes as a dip before moving the fish to a treatment tank.

Jay

Thanks, that's what I figured. It seems my best course would be to pull all fish and run through copper in my QT tanks while the main display runs fallow. I only hope I can keep up with the bioload in 2 much smaller sterile systems.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks, that's what I figured. It seems my best course would be to pull all fish and run through copper in my QT tanks while the main display runs fallow. I only hope I can keep up with the bioload in 2 much smaller sterile systems.

You may need to augment with bacteria in a bottle products like Dr Tims.
Jay