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is calcium carbonate really the same as coral snow?
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is calcium carbonate really the same as coral snow?
Sorry, I did not go through the thread but want to answer your question directly: Phosphate doesn't make corals brown or brownish, it are the nitrogen compounds like nitrate or ammonium.How come?
I thought it will make them brownish... but color remains good as it was
I guess the latter!I wonder if the burned tips are due to the high PO4 level, or due to trying to reduce it...
High Iron limiting browning? I was thinking too much, make them brown also, or I understand you wrong?Sorry, I did not go through the thread but want to answer your question directly: Phosphate doesn't make corals brown or brownish, it are the nitrogen compounds like nitrate or ammonium.
Very easy test: Carefully dose ammonium but avoid such miscalculations under all circumstances. You will notice an almost immediate darkening of corals, in just one or two days. Exception: Other nutrients like iron are limiting and avoiding browning.
High Iron limiting browning? I was thinking too much, make them brown also, or I understand you wrong?
If phosphates make the coral not brown ,there is a reason we should control or reduce it or not? Should we not just take care of the nitrate?
do you know where this came from? I've seen a lot of people say it and I took it to heart too, but I can't find any research that says it's growth limiting. There is a study that went as high as 0.5 and found the coral grow very well but the skeleton was more brittle (not inherently bad for the coral i guess). A recent study had acros grow and breed in 0.9 PO4. I'm no longer sure it matters as much as we thought it didAs far as I understand, the main reason we keep PO4 level is because high level will stop coral growth
As Randy stated correctly, low iron limiting zooxanthellae growth and in this way browning.High Iron limiting browning?
This is from an old article of Simkiss. Meanwhile several trials have shown that in fact phosphate up to high concentrations increases calcification and skeletal growth.I can't tell my sources, but according to the research they did - it appears that in high PO4 corals will have toxic area between the skeleton and the tissue, which will eliminate the growth.
Yes, correct. Inceased phosphate concentrations of ca. 0.1 ppm seem to be suitable to induce iron and/or nitrogen limitation of zooxanthellae and in this way keep the colors of corals bright, a bit like glaced porcelain in Acropora.If phosphates make the coral not brown ,there is a reason we should control or reduce it or not? Should we not just take care of the nitrate?
Interesting thing that I noticed with the coral-snow-plus is that when I dose it day after day - there is no difference (or mostly for 0.01-0.02 ppm) on PO4 level.
Any clue why is that?
How large of an increase in PO4 concentration did you expect by adding this product?Interesting thing that I noticed with the coral-snow-plus is that when I dose it day after day - there is no difference (or mostly for 0.01-0.02 ppm) on PO4 level.
Any clue why is that?
You meant decrease, right?How large of an increase in PO4 concentration did you expect by adding this product?
OK thanks, to be sure to have unterstand, correct me if I wrong:As Randy stated correctly, low iron limiting zooxanthellae growth and in this way browning.
This is from an old article of Simkiss. Meanwhile several trials have shown that in fact phosphate up to high concentrations increases calcification and skeletal growth.
However, in my experience the problem may come with the lowering of phosphate concentrations. Then indeed the skeleton seems to be "intoxicated", it is hard to get SPS, especially Acropora, growing at lowered phosphate concentrations.
Yes, correct. Inceased phosphate concentrations of ca. 0.1 ppm seem to be suitable to induce iron and/or nitrogen limitation of zooxanthellae and in this way keep the colors of corals bright, a bit like glaced porcelain in Acropora.
It seems important to have a strategy to get there, i. e. low iron dosage, ignoring ICP-laboratory recommendations of iron dosing and "efficient" high-energy fish feeds, high in lipids to keep nitrogen excretion of fish low.
However, there are several ways leading to Rome, other strategies may work also, but in my eyes, corals growing under iron and nitrogen limitation are showing a very regular growth and a special look, at least for aquarium grown corals. Corals growing in reefs have the same or at least a very similar look.
Sorry, I missed somethingYou meant decrease, right?
According to KZ, every 1 ml to 100 liters, will reduce PO4 by up to 0.08
I am using coral-snow-plus for the past weeks (over a month now), starting with PO4 level of over 2.5 and currently at 0.3.Sorry, I missed something
What is the possibility thar Coral Snow Plus isn’t all that effective?
Nitrate concentrations is in my eyes negative at any concentration or irrelevant at best, at least for my suggested mode of coral care. Phosphate should be around 0.1 ppm, ca. 0.08 to 0.15 ppm. Up to at least 0.5 ppm also seems to work fine.we should keep nitrate at least at 0,1 (this would mean also that the belief of keep phosphate around 0,03 for nice coulours was wrong), but there is a maximum we should better not exceed or not? If not that mean we could completely avoid and skip phosphate reduce as more would lead to better results?
Corals are not the only KH consumers. Depending on your KH simple precipitation may consume a significant amount of the dosed KH. Most of the slurry in the gravel or sand is not organic but precipitate. I guess bacterial consumption of phosphate is causing this precipitate. At higher phosphate concentrations this precipitation may be reduced.I don't know if it is revelant but in the past when my phosphate went over 0,15 my kh consumption get lower, but shouldn't it not went higher if the corals growth more with higher phosphate levels?
So in that case, now that my phosphate level is 0.3 - I should not push it down further by phosphate removers, but just let it down slow and steady "by nature"?Phosphate should be around 0.1 ppm, ca. 0.08 to 0.15 ppm. Up to at least 0.5 ppm also seems to work fine.