Hi Everyone, I'm beginning to plan my next tank, which will be an upgrade from a 150 gallon to a 540 gallon. This tank will be a little unique as I am considering the dimensions: 72"x72"x30".
Want To Pick Your Brain in Large Cube Tanks: Who's got one?
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biecacka
Valuable Member
Closed loop. Good rock work. low stand so you can use a step stool to reach deep into the tank. Well thought out rock work to reduce the struggle of reaching into the center of the tank.
I have a 48/48/24. Not as big as yours but I know my struggles haha
corey
I have a 48/48/24. Not as big as yours but I know my struggles haha
corey
AlexG
Valuable Member
I would highly recommend having access from all sides of the tank with walking platform, fixed, foldaway, or a good step ladder. I think good rock work design will also be helpful in allowing for good access. My tanks are not cubes but I face similar issues with accessing the tanks. They are 96"x48"x24" & 96"x48"x36" and access from as many sides as possible is needed for placing corals, general maintenance, and rearranging rocks. At this size tank you will need to start thinking about humidity control.
OP
OP
Hi Corey - i love the closed loop idea but know very well the size pumps if need to use to get the flow i want. I am anticipating ~ 30k gallons of flow... So 4 x MP60wQD - but 5-6 RD3 Speedies or 3-4 Reeflo Tiger Sharks. I like the RD3s and power consumption would be reasonable, but it's also have lots of bulkhead penetrations to consider. I'm really liking the MP60s for this. I also like the Pantarae, but the pumps and required mounts would really take away from the look I'm trying to achieve.
The rock work will be very open - 3-4 med/large "islands" but a focus on negative space and a ton of swimming room for the fish. This will also make the amount of flow I'm looking to achieve much easier.
The tank stand will likely be an marble topped extension of the wall it will sit against, so I'll have something to stand on. Also I'm 6'4" so normal maintenance (with sand stirring/blowing) won't be incredibly hard with some tools.
Things like placing corals and scrubbing algae off the rock will likely require some sort of platform that i can lay across the tank and lie down on while i work. At 30" tall, my arms would reach the bottom of the tank.
OP
OP
Yes, i didn't even think about a platform. Some sort of plastic grate i could lie down on for certain evolutions, wouldsave the day here.
Very open scape's is what I'm planning, which will help with flow, maintenance, coral placement.
I'm glad you mentioned humidity- i wasn't sure if this was something i would need a targeted solution for. Would a slightly oversized AC cover this, or, are you thinking dehumidifier?
OP
OP
For scape, I'm thinking something similar to @Alex Costa 's. His setup has been a considerable inspiration for what i am trying to achieve.
A_CoupleClowns
Active Member
If you have access from just 3 sides it’s doable.
30” would get my armpit wet every time Lol. 27” is right to my shoulder any deeper and I would be armpitting it. But I’m 5’10”. Since your 6’4” it should be about perfect, you should have about 3” more reach than me.
I have a 96x36x27” and I’m able to work everything pretty well from the front and 2 sides. When corals or something fall on the sand against the back wall (rocks spaced away from back wall) I use the turkey blaster or something to nudge them my way a little bit. With enough leaning over and a good ladder everything is doable. Sometimes I have to really lean into the hood to reach, but it’s doable.
Yours would be double my width (36x2=72) so if I am able to do it you should be able to with access on 3 sides. For example from your 2 sides you should be able to reach in about 30” each direction, and if you lay on the tank the full 36” easily, giving you reach to the full 72” display using just the 2 sides. If you did some center rockwork (cluster of islands or something) or back center rock work it’s only going to help your situation.
Btw this sounds like a cool build!
30” would get my armpit wet every time Lol. 27” is right to my shoulder any deeper and I would be armpitting it. But I’m 5’10”. Since your 6’4” it should be about perfect, you should have about 3” more reach than me.
I have a 96x36x27” and I’m able to work everything pretty well from the front and 2 sides. When corals or something fall on the sand against the back wall (rocks spaced away from back wall) I use the turkey blaster or something to nudge them my way a little bit. With enough leaning over and a good ladder everything is doable. Sometimes I have to really lean into the hood to reach, but it’s doable.
Yours would be double my width (36x2=72) so if I am able to do it you should be able to with access on 3 sides. For example from your 2 sides you should be able to reach in about 30” each direction, and if you lay on the tank the full 36” easily, giving you reach to the full 72” display using just the 2 sides. If you did some center rockwork (cluster of islands or something) or back center rock work it’s only going to help your situation.
Btw this sounds like a cool build!
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
Just a tiny tank person's thoughts but wouldn't MP60s really take away from the overall look if it's a 4 sided tank? And honestly given the size you're probably looking at double the amount of powerheads atleast to get nice even flow across the whole tank. Closed loops are infinitely better in tanks this size. I'll throw @ca1ore and @vetteguy53081 in here for there thoughts
OP
OP
Was planning on doing all Vortechs in the back wall - which will be black.
AlexG
Valuable Member
First I would get some humidity monitors for around the tank and in your home to get an understanding of what levels are at before and after the tank is running. Every climate is different when it comes to humidity control. I linked a video I did a while back that goes over my humidity controls.
vetteguy53081
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The power head layout should be just fine. MP60s are powerful and can really move water. Make sure you place them to create a semi-gyre effect
OP
OP
Hi thank you for your kind words, and your thoughts on the tank dimensions. My tank now is 48"x38"x22"h and i am able to reach the back with a good stretch to place frags, or with a blade to stir the sand. I used similar logic to yours when i was considering the dimensions - but it is awesome to hear someone confirm.
The tank will be fully accessible from 3 sides, and the back will be just far enough away from the wall to for my arm, and the Vortech dry sides. And i plan on having 18"-24" granite "counter top" that will wrap around the base of the display.
I live in Tampa, and i will enlist Reef Savvy for the display construction.
OP
OP
Great video, thank you for sharing. While i understand the concept that humidity in the home can be relative to the climate - is there a standard for humidity levels within the home that will prevent mold and drywall damage?
AlexG
Valuable Member
80% humidity and higher is where ideal conditions for mold growth to occur. I try to keep my average humidity levels in the 50-60% range. A balance between evaporation and humidity is important as lowering the humidity too low will cause an increased level of evaporation requiring more water to make up via ATO. Learning about materials in the local climate is key to understanding what levels of humidity your home can tolerate before it becomes an issue that can can be detrimental to you home and the safety of its occupants.
biecacka
Valuable Member
The MP60’s or gryes would work. Just thinking that a closed loop would allow water flow from a different direction. Wouldn’t have to be the only flow. maybe use it in conjunction with power heads to try and help get debris to the overflow box.
corey
corey
A_CoupleClowns
Active Member
If you did a hood on top of the tank you could suck all the humidity out and direct it outside.
I evacuate my hood and the fishroom air directly outside. This way my 700g+ of total water volume adds 0% humidity to the house air.
They key is sizing your evacuation fan for a slight negative pressure in the room and hood. Some people really don’t like hoods but if your interested I can post a few photos.
I evacuate my hood and the fishroom air directly outside. This way my 700g+ of total water volume adds 0% humidity to the house air.
They key is sizing your evacuation fan for a slight negative pressure in the room and hood. Some people really don’t like hoods but if your interested I can post a few photos.
You would be pretty silly to discount the advantage of a closed loop in a tank that big. Plus you can get a DC jebao to push 4,000 gph using 110 watts.
OP
OP
Thank you for your thoughtful response here. I will keep these target humidity levels in mind. I live in Florida so i understand very well the damage humidity can do to a home/people. I am looking at purchasing a home soon, so i will consider your mitigation/removal techniques as i am picking the layout. Thank you so much for your help with this.
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