Water Mixing station with ATO and AWC question

[aaron186]

I am setting up a Reefer 350 with a mixing station in my garage. I could use some help with plumbing the mixing station.

I was planning on using 2 brute trash cans. I have a Neptune dos and FMM module in my garage that will perform the AWC from the saltwater brute can, and I am using a Neptune ATK in the sump with a pmup in my RO brute can to run as the ATO.

I am concerned with this setup that I will constantly be running my RODI unit to every time my tank tops off. I was planning to solve this by plugging in Neptune water level sensors as a high and low sensor and running a Neptune solenoid to start and stop the RODI. There will be a float valve for redundancy. My concern with this solution is that when I am ready to make salt water, my RO can will likely not be full. Is there a better method?

 

[FruiTee]

I am setting up a Reefer 350 with a mixing station in my garage. I could use some help with plumbing the mixing station.

I was planning on using 2 brute trash cans. I have a Neptune dos and FMM module in my garage that will perform the AWC from the saltwater brute can, and I am using a Neptune ATK in the sump with a pmup in my RO brute can to run as the ATO.

I am concerned with this setup that I will constantly be running my RODI unit to every time my tank tops off. I was planning to solve this by plugging in Neptune water level sensors as a high and low sensor and running a Neptune solenoid to start and stop the RODI. There will be a float valve for redundancy. My concern with this solution is that when I am ready to make salt water, my RO can will likely not be full. Is there a better method?

Try sizing your RO tank larger than your saltwater mixing tank as you'll also drain your RO tank for your top off and dosing containers

Always having your RODI filter running isn't a bad option at all if your running a booster pump make sure to have a pressure sensor on your tank line as you don't want to burn the pump out when your float valve closes and the booster pump doesn't shutoff

It's basically a worry free option that you don't wake up in the middle of the night with a flooded garage because you forgot the RO on

 

[Bret]

I run a similar mixing station/AWC setup. The way I get around the issue of the RO system constantly running is by using a second auxiliary ATO reservoir that the tank draws from for top off. I have a separate ATK just for this AUX top off reservoir that I have set to refill about once per day. This way the tank can draw off the AUX tank as needed, and the main RO reservoir stays filled and the RO system only runs once a day.

 

[cubsfan16]

I run a similar mixing station/AWC setup. The way I get around the issue of the RO system constantly running is by using a second auxiliary ATO reservoir that the tank draws from for top off. I have a separate ATK just for this AUX top off reservoir that I have set to refill about once per day. This way the tank can draw off the AUX tank as needed, and the main RO reservoir stays filled and the RO system only runs once a day.

Trying to do something similar with my setup. How far away is your AUX top off reservoir from your mixing station? Trying to think through how to use a separate ATO/ATK if the pump (in RO Main tank) and sensors (in AUX tank) are far apart (20-25ft)

 

[Bret]

AUX reservoir is at the tank. Mixing station is in my garage. Line runs up into the attic, then about 50 over to the tank. I used 3/8 RO line and the PMUP pushes it without issue.

 

[cubsfan16]

Ok, sorry for another clarifying question. I haven't set anything up yet on my new system and just getting back in after being out of the hobby for 6 yrs or so...lots of memory refreshing going on. Do you have a FMM at the mixing station with a Aquabus extension cable that will power the pump and signal on/off with the floats connected to the Apex at the tank location? Again, sorry just trying to get it straight in my head the best way to have everything connected

 

[Bret]

Yes, two fmm. One at the garage/mixing station powers the pmup in the large garage res. The fmm at the tank powers the pmup for the aux res, and controls all the optical sensors from the atk. You could also use an eb832 to power the pmup on either end

 

[Bret]

Sorry, and yes, I have a long aquabus (usb) cable that runs from the tank to the mixing station in the garage. I used a 30’ and a 20’ extension that I got on Amazon and strung them together. You don’t want to get the cables that have the built in booster module as that could fry you apex, you just want the basic usb cables/extensions. I have my apex controlling my quarantine tank in another room this way too. Pretty cool how you can use one apex brain to control multiple systems in your house.

 

[TK_KW]

I am setting up a Reefer 350 with a mixing station in my garage. I could use some help with plumbing the mixing station.

I was planning on using 2 brute trash cans. I have a Neptune dos and FMM module in my garage that will perform the AWC from the saltwater brute can, and I am using a Neptune ATK in the sump with a pmup in my RO brute can to run as the ATO.

I am concerned with this setup that I will constantly be running my RODI unit to every time my tank tops off. I was planning to solve this by plugging in Neptune water level sensors as a high and low sensor and running a Neptune solenoid to start and stop the RODI. There will be a float valve for redundancy. My concern with this solution is that when I am ready to make salt water, my RO can will likely not be full. Is there a better method?

I'm running a near identical setup. I run Dos for auto wc from Salt Reservoir. Solinoid for Rodi control with opticals. Atk from Rodi Reservoir for top off

The amount of times you'd go to make fresh salt water, and the reservoir is near empty is usually pretty minimal to be honest. And if it is, your just one day away from a full 50g drum of rodi.

One thing to add, if using a solinoid valve for the Rodi. I'd add a third optical inside the Rodi reservoir. As a emergency high. That will kill the solinoid if your high doesn't turn it off. And may buy you more time to manually shut it off if the orfice in the solinoid valve gets blocked with a partial. Happened to me.

Picture is the inside of my Rodi reservoir. And my make up station. If you have any programming questions just fire away.

 

[cubsfan16]

Sorry, and yes, I have a long aquabus (usb) cable that runs from the tank to the mixing station in the garage. I used a 30’ and a 20’ extension that I got on Amazon and strung them together. You don’t want to get the cables that have the built in booster module as that could fry you apex, you just want the basic usb cables/extensions. I have my apex controlling my quarantine tank in another room this way too. Pretty cool how you can use one apex brain to control multiple systems in your house.

Thanks for clarifying...good to know about the USB...its these little details that take a while to work out. Also looking at the DOS for AWC.

 

[cubsfan16]

I'm running a near identical setup. I run Dos for auto wc from Salt Reservoir. Solinoid for Rodi control with opticals. Atk from Rodi Reservoir for top off

The amount of times you'd go to make fresh salt water, and the reservoir is near empty is usually pretty minimal to be honest. And if it is, your just one day away from a full 50g drum of rodi.

One thing to add, if using a solinoid valve for the Rodi. I'd add a third optical inside the Rodi reservoir. As a emergency high. That will kill the solinoid if your high doesn't turn it off. And may buy you more time to manually shut it off if the orfice in the solinoid valve gets blocked with a partial. Happened to me.

Picture is the inside of my Rodi reservoir. And my make up station. If you have any programming questions just fire away.

Tanks for the interior pic....I'm accumulating equipment at the moment. Tank should be in next week so I figured I would get things laid out best I can ahead of time. I know once I get everything...next step will be figuring out all the programing. Thanks for offering!

 

[TK_KW]

Tanks for the interior pic....I'm accumulating equipment at the moment. Tank should be in next week so I figured I would get things laid out best I can ahead of time. I know once I get everything...next step will be figuring out all the programing. Thanks for offering!

It's very straight forward. Just let me know if you need a hand.

 

[n2585722]

I have 3 20 gallon Brute cans I use for my storage in my garage. One is DI that is used for ATO. I also have a pump plumbed to dispense into containers as needed. This tank auto refills from the RODI unit once the level goes low. There is a full sensor also to turn off the RODI once it is full. The second one is a fresh salt water tank (FSW). it is used for AWC and also has a dispense pump for dispensing into containers as needed. This tank will automatically refill from the third tank(Mix Tank) if the water is ready to use. That leave the third tank the mix tank. it has a pump plumbed to transfer water to the FSW tank when it needs refilled. It also has a power head to stir the contents in the mix tank. This pump automatically runs when the water level goes above 60% full. Once the tank empties from a transfer to the FSW tank it is refilled form the RODI unit. All I have to do is add the salt mix and press a button when it is ready for use. All the bulkheads are done in the lids. So there are no holes to leak. Also the refill bulkheads have float valves as a backup just in case the full float switch were to fail. The fist photo below is the DI tank. All three are mounted on the Brute dolly's. The second photo is of the three tanks under my workbench in the garage. I have more photos of this on my build thread (Click the build thread banner on one of my post) at post #116. I also have post on the controller setup for the Archon starting at post #41 and starting at post #85. I switched to the Hydros controller and settings for that controller start at post #128 if interested in more info.

 

[Rundmc2016]

I'd like to put in a good word for the Avast Barrel Tender to keep your ro reservoir topped off. The can set the low switch to turn on the ro system at whatever level you want, for example to have it turn on the ro system when there's only 15 gallons of fresh water in the tub. That way your ro system isn't cycling everytime you ato drops it down below the float valve and you'll be guaranteed to always have at least 15 gallons of available. Pair the barrel tender with an auto flush valve, second to membrane, and booster pump to really make a worry free set up.

Barrel Tender V2

The Barrel Tender is a unique device designed to automatically regulate reverse osmosis (RO) water production and greatly reduce the negative effects of TDS creep. The Tender senses when the RO reservoir is nearly empty, then turns on the RO system until the reservoir is full. This allows the...

www.avastmarine.com

 

[Dburr1014]

I have 2 brute cans for my awc/rodi topoff.

When my topoff gets low it trips on my rodi. But I setup my low float valve a few inches from the bottom. This way, I have a day worth left of topoff water, at least 2 gallons are in there. Rodi fills my brute. Chances of being low on awc and topoff are very slim.
My full float shuts of the rodi but I also setup a timer to shut it off if it goes past the float. Just need to know how long it takes to fill.