Weston's - Innovative Marine Nuvo 14 Peninsula Build

WestonNanos

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Finally back in the hobby after about 6 years... I have a Nuvo 14 Peninsula currently in transit that I plan to make into an LPS/euphyllia dominant reef tank. The tank will be to my house on Wednesday, in the meantime, I am working on building a custom stand that will house the eventual auto top off as well as any cords, supplies etc. Just bought a house so budget is a concern of mine... Will most likely do a 2 month ish cycle adding fish about a month in and CUC towards the end.

Plan of attack...

Tank: Innovative Marine
Lighting: AI Prime 16 hd
Heater: Eheim Jager 75w
Auto top off: Ice cap nano
Rock: Dry
Sand - Caribsea Fiji Pink live sand
Live stock: Clown pair
CUC: ~3 nassarius snails ~ 2 Turbo snails ~ shrimp
Corals: LPS / euphyllia dominant - 1-2 monti cap

Here are some Pics of the stand so far... still needs a cabinet door and notches near the baseboards so that it can sit flush on the wall :)

stand2.jpg
stand1.jpg
stand3.jpg
stand4.jpg
 
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Aquarium Specialty - dry goods & marine livestock
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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So the tank is coming in tomorrow and I am really starting to think about the flow requirements... the tank is a 14 gallon peninsula, and the return pump is the mighty jet 8501... Also note i plan to mainly have LPS/euphyllia and possibly one monti cap.

pump specifications are ...
1632240521934.png

  • Max Flow - 326 GPH
  • Max Head - 5 FT
  • Dimensions - 3.7" L x 2.5" W x 3.4" H
  • Output Size - 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" barbed
  • Input Size - 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" barbed
  • Power Consumption - 15w @ 24VDC
My two questions are...
1. Will that return pump with a random flow nozzle be enough flow for the tank or will i need to supplement flow with an additional powerhead (ie. nero 3 ..?)
2. Should I randomize the flow using a Innovative marine spin stream, or a random flow generator nozzle (i can 3d print one easily)

Any help would be much appreciated!
 

Hooz

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I run a VCA drop adapter, 1/2" to dual 1/4" locline Y adapter and then dual 1/4" VCA RFGs in my Nuvo 10. The MightyJet has more than enough power to drive dual 1/4" RFGs, and you can better distribute the flow in the tank. I think you could probably get away with skipping the powerhead in there if you aim them correctly.
 
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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I run a VCA drop adapter, 1/2" to dual 1/4" locline Y adapter and then dual 1/4" VCA RFGs in my Nuvo 10. The MightyJet has more than enough power to drive dual 1/4" RFGs, and you can better distribute the flow in the tank. I think you could probably get away with skipping the powerhead in there if you aim them correctly.
thank you so much! super helpful!
 
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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Update! Built my aqua scape and got the tank in the mail. Added water and getting rid of the haze. Let me know your thoughts! PS please don't mind my girlfriend vacuuming in the background!

Plans for tomorrow: dr. tims one and only and then my first fish to start cycling this tank! Also I'm going to get some nozzle adapters so that I can put two RFG's on the pump nozzle, thanks @Hooz !!

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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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You may want to get a few 1/4" locline links (make sure you use the same number on each side of the Y) so you have some more flexibility in aiming the RFGs. Here's what mine actually looks like:

1632399267587.png
I looked through your build thread! Super clean setup, awesome tank!
 
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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Update ... Went to the LFS last night and got an AI prime / mount , snow flake and a black ice clown. Drip acclimated them for an hour and introduced them to their new home. Let me know what you think!


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The clowns seem to be having a hard time with the flow so I put the pump to its lowest setting and plan to ramp it up slowly day by day. (im sure they will get used to it)
 
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Hooz

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The MightyJet 326 on max is probably way more than you need.

Controllable Flow Rates:
  • 1.1: 8W 174 GPH
  • 1.2: 9W 196 GPH
  • 1.3: 10W 217 GPH
  • 1.4: 11W 239 GPH
  • 1.5: 12W 261 GPH
  • 1.6: 13W 283 GPH
  • 1.7: 14W 304 GPH
  • 1.8: 15W 317 GPH
  • 1.9: 15W 326 GPH
I'd say 1.3/1.4 is probably the sweet spot for a tank that size. It'll also help once you get the splitter and RFGs in there.
 
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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The MightyJet 326 on max is probably way more than you need.

Controllable Flow Rates:
  • 1.1: 8W 174 GPH
  • 1.2: 9W 196 GPH
  • 1.3: 10W 217 GPH
  • 1.4: 11W 239 GPH
  • 1.5: 12W 261 GPH
  • 1.6: 13W 283 GPH
  • 1.7: 14W 304 GPH
  • 1.8: 15W 317 GPH
  • 1.9: 15W 326 GPH
I'd say 1.3/1.4 is probably the sweet spot for a tank that size. It'll also help once you get the splitter and RFGs in there.
Thanks for the input! Any thoughts on the sine mode, where the flow ramps up and down? Useful?
 

Hooz

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Thanks for the input! Any thoughts on the sine mode, where the flow ramps up and down? Useful?
I don't use it. I think the RFGs keep the flow "changing" enough, and I'm not sure how the surging would do with an ATO sensor in the return pump chamber with the water level constantly changing.
 
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WestonNanos

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Update: Had to move the tank because it wasn't in the spot that made my girlfriend happy :rolleyes: fish seem to be doing really well but not eating as much as I would like... In order to prevent the ugly phase, Im feeding very little (a few pellets every other day) and also just started dosing a very small amount (1.5 ml every two weeks) of vibrant. Added the ice cap ATO, I really like the fact that it has two optical sensors rather than float switches, super responsive and seems to work well! Did an ammonia and nitrate test and I seem to have a bit of both... sort of confused by the results of the test and dont really know where I am at in the stage of cycling. Lastly, I got two small nassarius snials in order to stir up the sand bed and clean up some of the food that has settled on the bottom.

For future, I still need to get the RFG / lockline, my LFS has been out of stock for a bit... I need to seed the tank with coraline algae also... I plan to keep the tank where its at for a good while to let it mature..

Any thoughts on test results , also when I should do my first water change?
test.jpg
fts.jpg

ato.jpg
 
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Update: Had to move the tank because it wasn't in the spot that made my girlfriend happy :rolleyes: fish seem to be doing really well but not eating as much as I would like... In order to prevent the ugly phase, Im feeding very little (a few pellets every other day) and also just started dosing a very small amount (1.5 ml every two weeks) of vibrant. Added the ice cap ATO, I really like the fact that it has two optical sensors rather than float switches, super responsive and seems to work well! Did an ammonia and nitrate test and I seem to have a bit of both... sort of confused by the results of the test and dont really know where I am at in the stage of cycling. Lastly, I got two small nassarius snials in order to stir up the sand bed and clean up some of the food that has settled on the bottom.

For future, I still need to get the RFG / lockline, my LFS has been out of stock for a bit... I need to seed the tank with coraline algae also... I plan to keep the tank where its at for a good while to let it mature..

Any thoughts on test results , also when I should do my first water change?
test.jpg
fts.jpg

ato.jpg
I would not do a water change until you have no ammonia and you have detectible nitrates. Did you seed the tank with any bacteria?
 
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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I would not do a water change until you have no ammonia and you have detectible nitrates. Did you seed the tank with any bacteria?
Thanks for the reply! Yes I seeded with somewhat of an over dose of Dr. tims one and only ! Then added fish later on that night.
 

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You can't avoid the ugly stage. I wouldn't be dosing Virbant in a brand new tank.

I always wait until I start to see diatoms, then add my CuC. They usually keep it bearable until the ugly stage is over. My 10g has 2 Scarlet Reef hermits, 12 Dwarf Ceriths, 5 Ceriths, 2 Asterae and 2 Nassarius. They all eat different things (with some overlap), so they do a pretty good job of keeping everything in check. The CuCs in my larger tanks are the same mix of snails and hermits. It just seems to work (for me).

With API tests, you'll see your nitrates go up, then drop, then start to go up again. The API kit reads nitrites in with the nitrates, so when the nitrites are gone, nitrates will "drop", then the nitrates will start to go up as you'd expect. Once ammonia is 0 (Or very close to 0. API kits are also notorious for false positives with the ammonia test.), nitrites are 0 and nitrates are on the rise, your tank is fully cycled.
 
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WestonNanos

WestonNanos

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You can't avoid the ugly stage. I wouldn't be dosing Virbant in a brand new tank.

I always wait until I start to see diatoms, then add my CuC. They usually keep it bearable until the ugly stage is over. My 10g has 2 Scarlet Reef hermits, 12 Dwarf Ceriths, 5 Ceriths, 2 Asterae and 2 Nassarius. They all eat different things (with some overlap), so they do a pretty good job of keeping everything in check. The CuCs in my larger tanks are the same mix of snails and hermits. It just seems to work (for me).

With API tests, you'll see your nitrates go up, then drop, then start to go up again. The API kit reads nitrites in with the nitrates, so when the nitrites are gone, nitrates will "drop", then the nitrates will start to go up as you'd expect. Once ammonia is 0 (Or very close to 0. API kits are also notorious for false positives with the ammonia test.), nitrites are 0 and nitrates are on the rise, your tank is fully cycled.
Thats great to know on the test kits, thankyou so much for the info!
 
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