What’s the best pH raiser?

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7.9 is right in the acceptable range? OP is a new tank owner (less than 6 months in from other posts), advising chasing ph to raise .1-.3 ph seems unnecessary in my opinion. Posts like yours are a bit extreme sounding from my point of view. To each their own though

It is right above the minimum range at 7.8, so its not ideal. I am not saying chase pH (albeit that term is ridiculous considering we do it for everything else in this hobby). I am simply stating that its not ideal. Not ideal doesn't mean deadly, but likely has behavioral and growth implications.
 

brahm

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Exactly my point! An experienced, veteran reefer and even then something happened and it required a quote heavy hand. When your ph dropped, your consumption went down, if you weren’t a veteran you wouldn’t have caught it and your alk would have spiked and you would have lost something. This is where my advice is coming from. The op is not a seasoned vet and probably…. No offense to the op…would not have caught and chested the issue so quickly.

You are missing the point. The heavy hand is due to the fact that my corals were now living in a less ideal situation; lower PH. I was forced to have a higher level of manual intervention to deal with AEFW and MEN as they were able to get a much stronger foothold due to the corals being less robust. Outside of that all I did was harass everyone on this forum (mostly @Randy Holmes-Farley) and try to put as much thought behind what was going on while taking no action.

It took me over 3 months to resolve the issue (much due to my own stubbornness and wanting to understand the cause of the issue before throwing new solutions at it).

I don't quite understand your concern about alk spikes etc. In my case, I'm running an overly complex system where my apex is controlling my CXRX consumption when things change it adjusts for it automatically; but I geek out on that stuff, and getting into it would derail this thread even more.

Prior to this system. I used to test test and test some more than adjust my dosage based on weekly averages. If she is manually dosing and testing on a regular basis or is using an apex to control her dosing amounts testing and adjusting to keep alk/calc/mag in line should be totally independent of whatever PH is doing. There are so many things that can cause your consumption to spike or rapidly decline if you aren't testing on a regular basis you are going to get caught off guard.
 

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I probably spend too much time worrying about my pH, but I run chronically low. I accidentally ran out of scrubber media and almost immediately plummeted to well below the ideal range. I turned my calcium reactor off and opened a window near my tank at night. Still, I've been at the low end of the spectrum and I definitely see my tank respnding negatively. Moral of my story is that I see a difference. Others may not, but MY reef is happier at 8-8.3 than 7.7-7.9.
 

gill7784

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In terms of pH raising chemicals, ALL pH boosters are alkalinity supplements, so only dose them when you need alkalinity. There are three basic types, as well as mixtures of the three types.

Hydroxide is the most potent. Can be from kalkwasser or sodium hydroxide.

Sodium carbonate (washing soda or soda ash or baked baking soda) is second best, with half the pH boost per unit of alk added.

Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is the worst. Despite seeming more basic (higher pH) than tank water, it LOWERS seawater pH when added.

Nearly all "buffers" are a mix of carbonate and bicarbonate, so they NEVER have a bigger pH boost than carbonate. Sometimes they have borate thrown in. I would not use those in a reef tank. You are replacing carbonate that corals use up, and if you add borate each time, it can accumulate and cause confusion in what an alk test is measuring.

I think this is the most straightforward answer.
 

A_Blind_Reefer

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You are missing the point. The heavy hand is due to the fact that my corals were now living in a less ideal situation; lower PH. I was forced to have a higher level of manual intervention to deal with AEFW and MEN as they were able to get a much stronger foothold due to the corals being less robust. Outside of that all I did was harass everyone on this forum (mostly @Randy Holmes-Farley) and try to put as much thought behind what was going on while taking no action.

It took me over 3 months to resolve the issue (much due to my own stubbornness and wanting to understand the cause of the issue before throwing new solutions at it).

I don't quite understand your concern about alk spikes etc. In my case, I'm running an overly complex system where my apex is controlling my CXRX consumption when things change it adjusts for it automatically; but I geek out on that stuff, and getting into it would derail this thread even more.

Prior to this system. I used to test test and test some more than adjust my dosage based on weekly averages. If she is manually dosing and testing on a regular basis or is using an apex to control her dosing amounts testing and adjusting to keep alk/calc/mag in line should be totally independent of whatever PH is doing. There are so many things that can cause your consumption to spike or rapidly decline if you aren't testing on a regular basis you are going to get caught off guard.
I am missing the point. I don’t think the op has a mr fancy pants automated everything on a small all in one. I don’t have anything to prove here. Just trying to help. I’m not comparing tank stats here. It’s fine for you to do what you’re doing, I’m not arguing that. I think it’s a bit much for someone just starting out to handle…. Unless they are fully aware of what they’re getting into. Changing ph, changes consumption. It can be a bottomless pit once you start going down that road
 

brahm

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I guess a simple question can turn into something complex! I just wanted to know product recommendations.
haha ya, it's reefing everyone is passionate about it. I wouldn't look for a product per say as typically those are temporary solutions.

I would look to understand why your PH is low and what you can do (if anything ) to increase it. How long has the tank been running, how are you testing your PH, and what is the upper and lower range? Does it run higher or lower in the winter/summer?
 

brahm

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I am missing the point. I don’t think the op has a mr fancy pants automated everything on a small all in one. I don’t have anything to prove here. Just trying to help. I’m not comparing tank stats here. It’s fine for you to do what you’re doing, I’m not arguing that. I think it’s a bit much for someone just starting out to handle…. Unless they are fully aware of what they’re getting into. Changing ph, changes consumption. It can be a bottomless pit once you start going down that road
They don't need automated everything or automated anything. Understanding the ever-changing demands of your tank and how to deal with them IS the hobby. If you don't think OP should learn about those things then you might as well tell Op to find a new hobby.

The only reason I am even having this discussion is that telling people not to chase numbers is something I used to say to people a fair bit a long time ago, (it's all my fault I'm sorry!!!) and I see it being used a lot out of the originally intended context. If Op came here and was like hey my PH is 8.3, I heard higher PH better how do I run the tank at 9+, or if op was stressing over every tiny swing.. totally makes sense. But Op is saying hey I'm at the bottom of the acceptable range, how do I get to the middle of said range. That's not chasing numbers that's trying to play it safe.
 

ZombieEngineer

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Honestly I wouldn't even worry about your pH as long as it's relatively stable. Your tank is too small to do any of the really demanding corals that the higher pH really benefits.

If you do anything, I would stick with just using kalkwasser to dose when and if water changes alone aren't enough to maintain stable alk.

One thing pH wise that is really beneficial is if you have a refugium, running its lighting opposite your display to minimize pH change from day to night as well as dosing any high pH additives during night.
 
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AydenLincoln

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Honestly I wouldn't even worry about your pH as long as it's relatively stable. Your tank is too small to do any of the really demanding corals that the higher pH really benefits.

If you do anything, I would stick with just using kalkwasser to dose when and if water changes alone aren't enough to maintain stable alk.

One thing pH wise that is really beneficial is if you have a refugium, running its lighting opposite your display to minimize pH change from day to night as well as dosing any high pH additives during night.
Thank you okay!:)
 
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In terms of pH raising chemicals, ALL pH boosters are alkalinity supplements, so only dose them when you need alkalinity. There are three basic types, as well as mixtures of the three types.

Hydroxide is the most potent. Can be from kalkwasser or sodium hydroxide.

Sodium carbonate (washing soda or soda ash or baked baking soda) is second best, with half the pH boost per unit of alk added.

Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is the worst. Despite seeming more basic (higher pH) than tank water, it LOWERS seawater pH when added.

Nearly all "buffers" are a mix of carbonate and bicarbonate, so they NEVER have a bigger pH boost than carbonate. Sometimes they have borate thrown in. I would not use those in a reef tank. You are replacing carbonate that corals use up, and if you add borate each time, it can accumulate and cause confusion in what an alk test is measuring.
Thank you!! I understand when you change one thing it changes the other!
 

A_Blind_Reefer

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They don't need automated everything or automated anything. Understanding the ever-changing demands of your tank and how to deal with them IS the hobby. If you don't think OP should learn about those things then you might as well tell Op to find a new hobby.

The only reason I am even having this discussion is that telling people not to chase numbers is something I used to say to people a fair bit a long time ago, (it's all my fault I'm sorry!!!) and I see it being used a lot out of the originally intended context. If Op came here and was like hey my PH is 8.3, I heard higher PH better how do I run the tank at 9+, or if op was stressing over every tiny swing.. totally makes sense. But Op is saying hey I'm at the bottom of the acceptable range, how do I get to the middle of said range. That's not chasing numbers that's trying to play it safe.
We agree on something! 8.4 was a pretty specific target (and what I would call numbers chasing, no offense to the op) and is close to the opposite end of the ideal range in my non-expert opinion. So if 7.9 is bad as it’s too close to 7.8 what is 8.4 in realation to being too close to (depending on who you believe 8.3 or 8.4…..and I know there’s some stating 8.9 but that’s just crazy). I would say it’s on the other edge, but I’m wrong a lot. The hobby is all about learning this stuff, and it can be great fun! It can, and is all too often, devasting for people. This hobby has a huge attrition rate. I hate that, I want everyone to be successful and have a great time doing it. I apologize to the op for suggesting that she not need to worry about her ph of 7.9 and to all the YouTubers I offended. I’m all for people pushing the envelope, I just mistakingly think it can be too much to tackle for everybody, and not exactly necessary to have a very successful aquarium. Sometimes I let the keep it simple attitude slip when offering my opinion to the up and coming generation of reefers.
 

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This post is very interesting!
"I" feel PH is important! You can really get into the chemistry of things, about the ability of how calcium is used vs. the level of PH.
Our oceans are dying because they are becoming huge a CO2 sink. The acidity of the oceans are rising currently just slightly and they are in trouble. So how is someone going to tell me that 7.8-7.9 is ok?
We as "Reefers, Aquarists, or Hobbyist" have a husbandry responsibility, to at the VERY least mimic the parameters that sustained the life of the animals that we have removed from their original environment.
That being said. This post got me curious, so before I opened my mouth I thought I better check my tanks

10g AIO tropical mixed reef: 8.5
13.5g surge tank, temperate: 8.35
6g temperate with canister filter: 8.3
40g tropical current build not finished running off of a 30 aqua clear: 8.32
What I do:
Overall: There is a constant breeze through the house. This is probably the biggest factor in my ph value.
Salt mix is Brightwell.
Tanks are all open top.
I run protein skimmers on all tanks. Any time you aerate the water you will naturally raise the PH.
Because my tanks are so small I manually dose Red Sea 3 part everyday at lunch. Yes I could go cheaper with bulk, but dose ML's a day so a 1000 ml bottle last a very long time.

The two Tropical tanks get Kalk added via the ATO. Normally I would not recommend adding Kalk this way but I live in SoCal which is pretty dry so my ATO pump goes off on a regular basis.

@AydenLincoln I really love my Eshopps nano skimmers, if you can fit one in your AIO mid chamber I would recommend this one.
 
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This post is very interesting!
"I" feel PH is important! You can really get into the chemistry of things, about the ability of how calcium is used vs. the level of PH.
Our oceans are dying because they are becoming huge a CO2 sink. The acidity of the oceans are rising currently just slightly and they are in trouble. So how is someone going to tell me that 7.8-7.9 is ok?
We as "Reefers, Aquarists, or Hobbyist" have a husbandry responsibility, to at the VERY least mimic the parameters that sustained the life of the animals that we have removed from their original environment.
That being said. This post got me curious, so before I opened my mouth I thought I better check my tanks

10g AIO tropical mixed reef: 8.5
13.5g surge tank, temperate: 8.35
6g temperate with canister filter: 8.3
40g tropical current build not finished running off of a 30 aqua clear: 8.32
What I do:
Overall: There is a constant breeze through the house. This is probably the biggest factor in my ph value.
Salt mix is Brightwell.
Tanks are all open top.
I run protein skimmers on all tanks. Any time you aerate the water you will naturally raise the PH.
Because my tanks are so small I manually dose Red Sea 3 part everyday at lunch. Yes I could go cheaper with bulk, but dose ML's a day so a 1000 ml bottle last a very long time.

The two Tropical tanks get Kalk added via the ATO. Normally I would not recommend adding Kalk this way but I live in SoCal which is pretty dry so my ATO pump goes off on a regular basis.

@AydenLincoln I really love my Eshopps nano skimmers, if you can fit one in your AIO mid chamber I would recommend this one.
Thank you!
 

mckinney0171

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I made a DIY CO2 scrubber out of a glass kombucha bottle and used that on my AIO nano. Drill a hole in the lid and run airline tubing to the bottom. Fill the bottle with scrubber media, run the airline to your skimmer, and voila.
 

TangerineSpeedo

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I made a DIY CO2 scrubber out of a glass kombucha bottle and used that on my AIO nano. Drill a hole in the lid and run airline tubing to the bottom. Fill the bottle with scrubber media, run the airline to your skimmer, and voila.
She doesn’t have a skimmer yet...
 

Max93

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Let me tell you that I used to work at a world famous Lfs… pH and kalkwaser was the name of the game along with strong flow and strong lighting. I’m implementing this method now because I’m sick of killing acros.
 

EugeneVan

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They are the only thing a little low that I’m working on raising is magnesium. It’ s currently at around 1140 I’m trying to get it to 1350.
Whenever you dose anything into your aquarium, do it with a lot of patient and do it very slowly over the weeks. Jump the gun usually make thing go bad very fast. I still remember those experienced reefer keepers always said if you see your coral turn better, it is what you did 2 to 3 weeks ago. Hope that make sense to you.
 

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