What am I doing wrong?

[ScubaSkeets]

Hi folks,
I'm still fairly new to this. I've had my tank for a little over 2 months now. Started the tank with 70% nutri seawater/ 30% RO/DI mixed with Instant Ocean. Am using caibsea live sand and LifeRock. Started with a few hermit crabs and snails. Added a fish here and there. Parameters "seem" good. (Ph=8.2, Ammonia, nitrate, nitrate=0, SG=1.026, temp=74). I do have some brown algae, and quite a bit of red cyano on the rocks.
Now, some of my original fish (hermits, 2 Damsels, 2 clowns, aptasia File) are thriving. However, several other fish (Valentini Puffer, Bangai Cardinal, Sailfin, firefish, Mandarin Goby, etc) and bubble tip Anemone) have all died. Most recently the Valentini Puffer and BTA). I have done 10-20% water changes with RO/DI mix every 1-1.5 weeks.
I realize I may have rushed a bit. No need to point that out, but I do think that the tank is fairly established by now, but apparently, I'm wrong, because fish are still dying. Even though some of my first fish are still thriving. Any ideas?
Please help!
Thank you!

 

[SPR1968]

A picture of the tank would be very helpful, and it’s age, but it might be worth increasing the temperature slowly to 77 as a basic start

 

[Philly Reefer]

I am leaning towards your tank was or is not fully cycled yet and you added too much fishes.
Hence the tank could not convert the ammonias produced by the fishes.
Another thought is your fishes caught a disease. Velvet, ich, etc

 

[threebuoys]

How quickly after adding them to the tank did they die? Some of your choices are more difficult to care for than others and might have been affected by conditions that damsels and clown fish can more easily tolerate, particularly in a new tank.

What size tank?
What filtration setup?
Were the fish eating, and what?
Any bullies in the tank?
Did any jump out of the tank?
Any chemicals other than the salt mix in the tank?
Has it been necessary to treat for any parasites?
Do you have plenty of hiding spaces?

 

[John08007]

1st, raise temp up slowly, I keep mine at 80, use to be 78 for yrs. Is nitrite and nitrate both zero? You need some nitrate, you need to either feed some more or as I do add sodium nitrate. Cyano, it is caused by high phosphates, you don't give numbers for it. You can use chemiclean to knock out the cyano.

 

[lapin]

You are sure of your test results?
Did you get the fish from all the same place?
Did you QT the fish?
Add the questions @threebuoys asked

 

[Rickybobby]

Wow that’s a lot of animals fast and no qt. Good luck send us some pics of the remaining fish and the tank

 

[Reef.]

I realize I may have rushed a bit. No need to point that out,Any ideas?

You seem to know the answer but don’t want to hear it.

 

[Cell]

Nothing shared so far can be attributed to fish death. Whether or not you QT is a big piece of the puzzle. But generally, bta's can be hard to keep in immature tanks by inexperienced reefers and 2 mo old tanks cannot support a mandarin without supplemental feedings.

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Wow!! Thanks so much for the replies/ advice! I will follow the advice

What size tank? 54 Gallon

What filtration setup? Magniflow 220 Canister and protein skimmer

Were the fish eating, and what? Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, clams, etc.

Any bullies in the tank? The damsel seems to bully the new guys for a bit then eases off and no bullying after

Did any jump out of the tank? No

Any chemicals other than the salt mix in the tank? Phytoplankton and API Quickstart at water change. Also Super Ich remover at hint of ich.

Has it been necessary to treat for any parasites? A small case of ich, but quarantined that guy and treated tank with API Super Ich remover

Do you have plenty of hiding spaces? I think so

"You seem to know the answer but don’t want to hear it" incorrect. I don't mind the advice and criticism. I just already know the answer.

I attached a pic of the tank and test results I just did. Order of tests is High Ph, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate. The Nitrate is a little high and I did add Seachem Prime for that.

 

[ScubaSkeets]

I also acclimate but putting the fish and a small tank with the water from the store and slowly adding water from the aquarium.
As far as quarantining, I had intended to do that and bought a small tank. I asked one of my LFS about that and he was kinda indifferent about quarantine. So, no, I have not done much quarantining with the new fish. (I will do better at that from now on)

 

[iamacat]

Sounds like you know where you went wrong. Not going to harp on that cuz you learned. The choice to stock so heavily upfront is why you are having issues. The biology of the tank isn’t balanced.

on another note, looking at your picture, I don’t see any power heads. Is there flow in the tank? If not you need flow for gas exchange. That will lead to fish stress and disease and eventual death

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Sounds like you know where you went wrong. Not going to harp on that cuz you learned. The choice to stock so heavily upfront is why you are having issues. The biology of the tank isn’t balanced.

on another note, looking at your picture, I don’t see any power heads. Is there flow in the tank? If not you need flow for gas exchange. That will lead to fish stress and disease and eventual death

The thing is, I did not add all the fish at once. I added one or two every week or longer. I figured since the existing fish were ok, then it would be ok to add another one now and then.
Yes, I do have a power head (pic is attached)

 

[ScubaSkeets]

I also read somewhere that if diatoms are present, that is a sign of an established tank. Is that incorrect?

 

[iamacat]

The thing is, I did not add all the fish at once. I added one or two every week or longer. I figured since the existing fish were ok, then it would be ok to add another one now and then.
Yes, I do have a power head (pic is attached)

I would say that you are constantly extending your cycle by adding fish. I think your bacteria started to adjust to the ammonia, almost get it cleared, then another fish would be added. Clownfish are very hardy to ammonia and why they made it

The power heads could be pointed towards the surface to agitate the surface. I would recommend at least another to help with water movement. This will improve the overall health of the inhabitants. For reference my 75g has 2 gyre 230s, a Nero 5 and 3.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Bring temperature to 77
Take a water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test the water for you and see what results they get and for comparison as API kits are notorious for false readings

you have quite the load in a short amount of time. Prime will NOT fix your tank. You must change water and again, have LFS test your water
It’s best to buy the best you CANNOT afford and do it right and successfully
Getting by Will have a negative result

 

[CanuckReefer]

Looks like a nice setup. As others have mentioned, more flow, not sure the single powerhead is enough. And yes too much too fast. The species you listed that survived thusfar are all hardier fish imo, than the ones that did not. Also IMO a 54 gallon for a Sailfin is not going to turn out well. I'd think 100 g minimum...
Anyway, slow and steady wins this race, it's always tempting at startup to go a little quicker...been there done that and got the t-shirt. Best of luck in future, you'll get there...

 

[threebuoys]

Don't worry about 0 nitrate yet. In general, fish are not affected by 0 nitrate and this did not cause your fish to die. It only becomes important when you start growing certain types of corals.

How quickly after adding the fish did they die?

So far, what you provided has not identified toxicity levels of chemicals which I would expect if death was quick. Some chemical additives touted to clear water, clear algae, or solve every possible issue (even those with positive customer reviews) can be deadly even with no or only minor overdoses. I have first hand experience with that.

However, stress or not eating properly remain considerations. You mentioned Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, clams, as food you use. Most fish love this, but particularly the shrimp tend to be vry low in protein and over time could result in starvation if that is all they eat. Are you able to get them to eat either flake or pellets with a higher protein content?

Frozen mysis shrimp = 3.7% protein; New Life Spectrum pellets = 36.0%; Tetramin Flakes = 47%.

You don't seem to have much algae in the tank which tends to be an important part of the tangs' diet.

From the website of an online seller (BlueZoo) of fish concerning the mandarin :

And, I have experienced death by stress when other established fish in the tank badger the new addition.

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Thanks so much guys!
So, what can I do now? Anything? Is RO/DI mixed with Instant Ocean salt good enough for the water changes? Or should I only use Nutri Seawater? Does the diatoms indicate that the tank is established? How do I know when exactly can I add more fish?

 

[Pistondog]

Thanks so much guys!
So, what can I do now? Anything? Is RO/DI mixed with Instant Ocean salt good enough for the water changes? Or should I only use Nutri Seawater? Does the diatoms indicate that the tank is established? How do I know when exactly can I add more fish?

You could add some microbacter 7 or other weekly to help establish bacteria.
Run your skimmer to aid with gas exchange.
Get some pods going.