What am I doing wrong?

terraincognita

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This is AB+ but with everything at 100% except the whites.

wow your drawing should be used on every single manual for LEDs. If it is and I missed it well.. haha.
Now I have more options on what to do here. I’m still thinking the hybrid will suit best due to my goals but definitely changes the game.
Yeah,

I'd say when you get the Hybrid in you could bring all the blue's and violets and uv down to like 100-110%

then red green white to 20% and moonlight to 0%.

I'd like to see FTS with and without the T5's.

I have a T5 Hyrid system and bulbs all ready just waiting for my next tank.
 
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Aquarium Specialty - dry goods & marine livestock

terraincognita

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Awesome

I really hate to be a Debbie downer but I’ve had to replace all my hydras 52s, 26’s and my prime 16 lenses bc they got burned from running the UV too high
image.jpg

This one I have to send back bc the plastic lens melted onto the led….and won’t come off
Yeah, That's why I said "burn em to the ground" haha!

That's why I'm also wanting to get the T5 system in so I can drop down the usage so much on the LED's myself :(. But without it you just don't get those same par numbers. Not that you need neccesarrily anything above 250 per se, but I like the blue's and coloration.
 
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Max93

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Awesome

I really hate to be a Debbie downer but I’ve had to replace all my hydras 52s, 26’s and my prime 16 lenses bc they got burned from running the UV too high
image.jpg

This one I have to send back bc the plastic lens melted onto the led….and won’t come off
It’s good to share because otherwise how do we figure this stuff out! I’m so excited that everyone here helped me figure this out.

Do you suggest running the UV lower? I have the 32s* made a mistake on my post until I checked the boxes last night. Do the 32s tend to have the same issue?
 

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Yeah, That's why I said "burn em to the ground" haha!

That's why I'm also wanting to get the T5 system in so I can drop down the usage so much on the LED's myself :(. But without it you just don't get those same par numbers. Not that you need neccesarrily anything above 250 per se, but I like the blue's and coloration.
It’s only been the UV…I’ve run the blues and V maxed for several years with no issues.

I’ve also heard AI did a firmware update that reduced the UV power to prevent this but I have no confirmation of that claim
 

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Yeah, That's why I said "burn em to the ground" haha!

That's why I'm also wanting to get the T5 system in so I can drop down the usage so much on the LED's myself :(. But without it you just don't get those same par numbers. Not that you need neccesarrily anything above 250 per se, but I like the blue's and coloration.
I believe turning the UV down to 100-110 should be safe and you wouldn’t sacrifice much, if any, par
 
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terraincognita

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It’s only been the UV…I’ve run the blues and V maxed for several years with no issues.

I’ve also heard AI did a firmware update that reduced the UV power to prevent this but I have no confirmation of that claim
You mean when they released the 32's and 64's I think yeah? and then they released the HD or whatever maybe it was that.

I've had my 32's running like that for over a year now. They're all still working. But I kind of think to myself every so often "it's only a matter of time now" lol.
 
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Max93

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Oopsie
I quoted the wrong person
I followed :p haha

if you guys were in my shoes, would you jump to the hybrid or get two more 32s?
I’m thinking I’d get more par with the hybrid but it’s less cost effective. But that’s good with me, I’d rather have the strongest par I can get.. and not have to break my hands again sawing metal for the tank cover.

If I change 4 bulbs every 6 months that’s $400 a year, plus initial $700 start up for the hybrid which includes the initial bulbs.

or

~$980 once and done. (Edit)

Second edit:

this would be once and done too.. cost me $1000 once and done, but these would be more LEDs which I’m good with too, but would they require I get another couple hydras as well?

 
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I followed :p haha

if you guys were in my shoes, would you jump to the hybrid or get two more 32s?
I’m thinking I’d get more par with the hybrid but it’s less cost effective. But that’s good with me, I’d rather have the strongest par I can get.. and not have to break my hands again sawing metal for the tank cover.

If I change 4 bulbs every 6 months that’s $400 a year, plus initial $700 start up for the hybrid which includes the initial bulbs.

or

~$980 once and done. (Edit)

Second edit:

this would be once and done too.. cost me $1000 once and done, but these would be more LEDs which I’m good with too, but would they require I get another couple hydras as well?

I could never bring myself to hanging a giant fixture like that. I just love the clean look of led mounts
 
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Max93

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I could never bring myself to hanging a giant fixture like that. I just love the clean look of led mounts
Good point, this is in my living room. Instead of hanging from the roof I’ll get this mount:

 

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Good point, this is in my living room. Instead of hanging from the roof I’ll get this mount:

That has to be mounted to a wall
 

terraincognita

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Good point, this is in my living room. Instead of hanging from the roof I’ll get this mount:

I’m all for the T5’s, ultimately I think it boils down to a “look” factor. You’ll get a much softer blanket but still bright light from T5’s that I personally find very attractive. Especially if you run Carbon for crystal clear water.

you get a different diffusion of light from the T5 bulbs you just can’t from LED’s.

but honestly with what you have now you should have enough par to grow about anything you really only need 250+

so adding LEDS wouldn’t necessarily be worth it except reducing the power load on each cell and maybe a slightly more even spread. But you’d still accomplish that with T5’s.

T5’s have other pros too. So it really boils down to looks for me.

now I’m rambling about lighting. It’s a never ending debate for reefers lol. Just don’t mention metal hallides, or now a whole other school of spectrum comes into play.
 
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Max93

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I’m all for the T5’s, ultimately I think it boils down to a “look” factor. You’ll get a much softer blanket but still bright light from T5’s that I personally find very attractive. Especially if you run Carbon for crystal clear water.

you get a different diffusion of light from the T5 bulbs you just can’t from LED’s.

but honestly with what you have now you should have enough par to grow about anything you really only need 250+

so adding LEDS wouldn’t necessarily be worth it except reducing the power load on each cell and maybe a slightly more even spread. But you’d still accomplish that with T5’s.

T5’s have other pros too. So it really boils down to looks for me.

now I’m rambling about lighting. It’s a never ending debate for reefers lol. Just don’t mention metal hallides, or now a whole other school of spectrum comes into play.
Haha, it is a never ending debate.
I used to run T5s back when I had my first tank.

putting the hydras together does work, but there’s about a whole foot of tank space on the right and left side that is very dark and doesn’t look the greatest if I didn’t add more lighting. The hybrid it is, within this month, hopefully, I’ll have pics to update.
 

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Another option for hanging the hybrid. I attended a 2x6 to the back of my stand, near the top, the full length of the stand. I drilled two 9/16 holes 4 inches deep into the top edge of the 2x6 at the location I wanted my hangers. I bought some 1/2 solid steel rod and bent it at a 90 degree angle so it would go over the top of the tank. Cut them to length, painted and slid them into the 9/16 holes I drilled
2F4A3835-960B-4397-844F-CCB7F57958C3.jpeg
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED lighting
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Max93

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Another option for hanging the hybrid. I attended a 2x6 to the back of my stand, near the top, the full length of the stand. I drilled two 9/16 holes 4 inches deep into the top edge of the 2x6 at the location I wanted my hangers. I bought some 1/2 solid steel rod and bent it at a 90 degree angle so it would go over the top of the tank. Cut them to length, painted and slid them into the 9/16 holes I drilled
2F4A3835-960B-4397-844F-CCB7F57958C3.jpeg
Awesome idea. I like this.

if I end up hanging from the roof, how the heck do I make sure I only drill once?

I was thinking of putting sharpies on the fixture itself and “tapping” dots on the roof with it, then drilling. Probably crazy but… never done this haha
 
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Max93

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Just an update:

I received my hybrid fixture, but I’m getting it professionally installed next month (hiding all six cables) lol.
So while we wait, I have noticed an increase in algae growth so decided to remove chemipure entirely and run skimmer 24/7. I have not seen a bacterial bloom so hopefully it never returns.

parameters, 9/23:

Alk: 7.7
Ca: 390
Mg: 1200
Nitrates: 5
Phosphates: .04
Sg: 1.026

looks like something is eating up the elements. I figured since my phosphates are on the lower end, I should let my Alk naturally drop over time to 7.0 and maintain it there.
 

terraincognita

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Just an update:

I received my hybrid fixture, but I’m getting it professionally installed next month (hiding all six cables) lol.
So while we wait, I have noticed an increase in algae growth so decided to remove chemipure entirely and run skimmer 24/7. I have not seen a bacterial bloom so hopefully it never returns.

parameters, 9/23:

Alk: 7.7
Ca: 390
Mg: 1200
Nitrates: 5
Phosphates: .04
Sg: 1.026

looks like something is eating up the elements. I figured since my phosphates are on the lower end, I should let my Alk naturally drop over time to 7.0 and maintain it there.
IMPO i'd try to keep ALK 8+ and Cal 400+ and Mg 1300+

6.5 Alk is like low end survivability, and some say 11-12 is High End and better. going 8 is a happy medium.

With Alk being 8 keeping Cal and MG at the levels above is appropriate per sea water proportions if that makes sense.

Anyway, either way at 7 if that's easier for you is totally fine.
 
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