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algae scrubbers assimilate inorganic nitrogen in the forms NH3/4, NO2, & NO3, & inorganic phosphate - PO4, during photosynthesis, & also take the carbon molecule from CO2, leaving O2, oxygenating the water & stabilizing pH. The size of the aquarium is inconsequential.In my opinion algae scrubbers are very good for a bit larger aquaria.
Yes, a small tank with a lot of fish means CO2 & ammonia, passing from the gills of the fish, can be a potential problem, particularly at night when photosynthesising organisms cease taking up CO2. Increased CO2 will itself cause pH to lower in an aquarium if it builds up. A skimmer, operating in a room where CO2 levels can be substancially higher than in fresh air, will not remove CO2 from aquarium water & raise pH, but the opposite. This is why so many people either use a CO2 scrubber, &/or, feed their skimmers with fresh air from air lines drawing fresh air from outside.Small tanks are often overloaded with fish and other animals + nutrition. That means that the pH swings will be larger than in big tank. A skimmer will went out CO2 when it is a lot of it in the tank and supply it if it is low. And so we get a smaller pH swing.
Forget the skimmer, their totally unnecessary.
If you want co2 removal/ oxygenation, & nutrient control, get a good algae scrubber.
For DOC control use activated carbon such as ROX 0.8 in a reactor.
LOllol
Might be worth clarifying that this is an opinion, not a generally accepted fact.
Or is it my statement that skimmers are totally unnecessary that you disagree with?
My wording was a bit broad, yes. But, in regards to aeration, photosynthesis is superior as it removes the carbon molecule from CO2 leaving O2, & this is why it is the only method that can achieve oxygen saturation, or near that level. Skimmers on the other hand are not only less effective with aeration, but unless CO2 scrubbers are used, or a quality supply of clean fresh air is used to feed the pump, they can have the opposite result.This one too:
"Algae filtration is superior to skimming in ever way. "
Like saying a corvette is superior to a dump truck in every way.
Thats fair enough Randy, but the title of this thread is - What equipment is essential and worth spending extra on for best water chemistry? I don't believe a skimmer can be considered essential. I haven't used one for years, & many other people haven't either.Personally, I don't think any one method of chemistry control solves every problem, and I like to use several at the same time to make up for each others shortcomings: GFO, GAC, skimming, macroalgae or microalgae growth, and organic carbon dosing.
GetAfter a few years away from the hobby, I've come back to a bunch of old test kits, refractometers, salt mix, etc.
As of now I'm reusing all of it, but am also wanting to take my reef chemistry to the next level with better maintenance.
Therefore, what equipment should I spend extra money on that will ensure happy fish?
For 20g? I would say the best is a 5g bucket, ro/di, and a salt mix! Stick with a weekly bucket change - 4g in the bucket will be over 20% change weekly if figure the tank will have under 20g with rock. Stir things up and use turkey baster on rocks before the w/c.
Keep that up every week and you will have a great reef!
Any recommendations on TDS meters? I see many from amazon to bulk reef supply - but the price ranges from $15 - $35
Thats fair enough Randy, but the title of this thread is - What equipment is essential and worth spending extra on for best water chemistry? I don't believe a skimmer can be considered essential. I haven't used one for years, & many other people haven't either.
The key goal in water chemistry is achieving stability.
The single largest driver of stability is VOLUME.
Start with a bigger tank, like a 65G. Whatever size you choose, you will wish you went bigger.
I'm with the water changes crowd. That's a small tank. $60 a year in salt for water changes is very inexpensive and it would be a simple way to maintain things like calcium and magnesium....
A sump isn't necessary at all. Not even mechanical filtration. Good flow and a good heater is all you need with the 10% (2g) water changes per week.
So a 20g tank with a couple circulation pumps and heater. A $20 florescent light and quality bulb. And a bucket of quality salt. On the table, a good test kit and supplements. Can't go wrong and VERY affordable. About a couple hundred bucks.
Is alkalinity important for soft corals as well? Hmm, is it important for the fishies too??I don't think anything is essential except an alk test, if you want to focus on the actual meaning of essential.
I'm with the water changes crowd. That's a small tank. $60 a year in salt for water changes is very inexpensive and it would be a simple way to maintain things like calcium and magnesium.
I personally like a sump just for the added volume (better stability( and a convenient place to do water changes and to accumulate detritus. I wouldn't call it essential though.
Is alkalinity important for soft corals as well? Hmm, is it important for the fishies too??
It often comes up here as the most important parameter to monitor, but its always in conjunction with sps tank talk.
That's what I thought, but I'd never really considered the relative importance to things not a stony coral.It controls pH, and it less important but still important in a soft coral or fish tank.
People are doing some really neat things with automatic water changers these days. If you have someplace near the tank for a salt water supply tank and easy access to a drain you could have a lot of flexibility in how much and how often you change water without any extra effort.Yup, I've been doing a 5 gallon water change once a month, but now I'm considering doing it more frequently. My concern is that because it's a 20% change, water changes are stressful to the livestock