What is going on?

droidus

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I noticed that my one clownfish is looking whiteish. As I looked closer, it looks like his skin is peeling off or something. I also noticed a tiny part of his outside fin is missing. What is going on? I just did a water change yesterday.

IMG_20220628_190208_461.jpg
 

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vetteguy53081

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Blowing up the image, looks very much like Brook. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
 
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droidus

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ammonia-0; nitrite-.1; salinity-1.026; nitrates-10; pH-8.0
Biocube 32g
It has been established for several years now. My bubble tip anemone also was/is not doing so well. That was most likely due to high salinity (due to miscalibration), and probably high TDS levels since the ro/di water filters needed to be replaced. I've done quite a few water changes since then, though.
 
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droidus

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Blowing up the image, looks very much like Brook. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

Any tips on amount/gallon of formalin?
What is FW?
I don't have any of these chemicals at this time; so just qt tank for now?
What would have caused this? Could this possibly be affecting my anemone? Do I need to do anything with my other tank members as well?
 

vetteguy53081

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Any tips on amount/gallon of formalin?
What is FW?
I don't have any of these chemicals at this time; so just qt tank for now?
What would have caused this? Could this possibly be affecting my anemone? Do I need to do anything with my other tank members as well?
FW = freshwater
freshwater dip will give fish temporary relief and buy you some timne to get the meds.
Other fish fine unless showing symptoms. Brooklynella hostilis is a ciliate parasite with a direct life cycle which lives, feeds and reproduces directly on a given fish
 
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droidus

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Can you please define "fresh water"? = Not salt? Just ro/di water?
I am making a emergency tank now (with a 5 gallon bucket) and am ordering the meds. The salinity is there, but just waiting for the temp to rise now. Then when I get the meds, I will add them to the qt tank. But will add him into the new qt in the mean time.
 
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droidus

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is quick cure the same as this?: API LIQUID SUPER ICK CURE Fish remedy, Freshwater and Saltwater Fish Medication
 

Jay Hemdal

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how long should it fw bathe for?
FW dips are typically 5 minutes,

While the picture does seem to look like Brooklynella, that disease is pretty rare in long term captive fish. Have you added any new animals/fish in the past few months>

Jay
 

vetteguy53081

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Can you please define "fresh water"? = Not salt? Just ro/di water?
I am making a emergency tank now (with a 5 gallon bucket) and am ordering the meds. The salinity is there, but just waiting for the temp to rise now. Then when I get the meds, I will add them to the qt tank. But will add him into the new qt in the mean time.
Tap water the same temperature as display tank will suffice
 
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droidus

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FW dips are typically 5 minutes,

While the picture does seem to look like Brooklynella, that disease is pretty rare in long term captive fish. Have you added any new animals/fish in the past few months>

Jay
Thank you. I ran a 5 minute session with him.
Yes; a bubble tip sea anemone, sailfin blenny, 2 peppermint shrimp and a goby, and I believe 3 large snails. All have died on me but the anemone (hoping it is recovering...) and the 2 peppermint shrimp. :(
 

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Some of best advice available anywhere is from contributers on this page , fresh water dip is the standard 5min cheers
 

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