What is the actual secret to long-term success with Euphyllia?? Please share!!

VintageReefer

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Thank you!!!! Yeah I can't wait for
them...allowed me to get a few more torches I really didn't have room for. Lol. Do you know if the back magnets for those racks can be submerged?
Forgot to ask him.
I would ask to be sure. I dont think the backs are sealed but he might be able to do that as an option
 

Saffer1

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I also believe hammers like water a little 'dirty'.

My tank's nitrates are always on the high side, between 15 and 20, while phosphate is currently 0.15. Water flow is medium at most.

I do keep Mg quite high, 1400-1500, CA 475, KH 8-9, PH 8.2.

This toxic green hammer grew from two heads to the extent that I had to frag. After I moved it the other day, one of the heads was damaged, I stuck the little fragment onto a rock and it's doing well so far.
 

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Reef Puncher

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the secret is KFC dip. it will save them 9/10 times. Euphyllia are the most susceptible to infections. and KFC dip or this new joker dip sold in asia, are the only fixes. until i bought the kfc dip materials from kung fu corals, i would lose euphyllia. it all stopped once i started kfc dipping.
 

Red_Beard

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the secret is KFC dip. it will save them 9/10 times. Euphyllia are the most susceptible to infections. and KFC dip or this new joker dip sold in asia, are the only fixes. until i bought the kfc dip materials from kung fu corals, i would lose euphyllia. it all stopped once i started kfc dipping.
I like the honey mustard. how about you, or do you like the ranch or bbq? ;)
 

VintageReefer

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Who if you wouldn’t mind me asking?

If the lid you need isn’t on the website, then use the custom form in the website menu to give the info and mention you heard about them on the R2R forum. They will reach out to get more info if needed and to provide a quote

Here is my latest lid from them, it’s for a Waterbox 15 peninsula. It was approx 70$

They also make the custom lids on my 75g reef and for others on the forum
6EB185AE-846D-40DC-B7FF-D740E49BA3CD.jpeg
71661C25-4245-4F8C-A77B-652825DD49D8.jpeg
8A31F952-FB96-4887-8305-4F3BA4D7A71F.jpeg
EDA84C7F-5266-4C2F-923F-A28F126E4692.jpeg
3DBFE6B4-6BAE-4AD2-A26C-B05C784FDE0C.jpeg
 

purpfish

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If the lid you need isn’t on the website, then use the custom form in the website menu to give the info and mention you heard about them on the R2R forum. They will reach out to get more info if needed and to provide a quote

Here is my latest lid from them, it’s for a Waterbox 15 peninsula. It was approx 70$

They also make the custom lids on my 75g reef and for others on the forum
6EB185AE-846D-40DC-B7FF-D740E49BA3CD.jpeg
71661C25-4245-4F8C-A77B-652825DD49D8.jpeg
8A31F952-FB96-4887-8305-4F3BA4D7A71F.jpeg
EDA84C7F-5266-4C2F-923F-A28F126E4692.jpeg
3DBFE6B4-6BAE-4AD2-A26C-B05C784FDE0C.jpeg
Wow that’s impressive
 

Dragen Fiend

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I found feeding every week really boosted my torch. When I first started, even with all my parameters within acceptable ranges. My coral would be slightly retracted and less wavy. After a mysis feed session. Its perked back up again. And my nitrates were always around 10 and phos 0.1- 0.05. So its not like it was starving.

It lasted about 7 months. I think I'm to blame because I moved it between 3 tanks. And likely died from stress. Now I have more torches that are thriving after learning. Just don't mess with them lol.

IMG_0352.jpg


IMG_0449.jpg
 
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ryukendoK

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Wanted to share another update:

I've upped the dosage to 5ppm ammonia and .2 ppm phosphate a day, and just fed my hammer for the third time today. The tissue recession has stopped completely and is now starting to reverse! The head with the worst of it is now growing the flesh band back over the green part of the skeleton. So so happy about this--this is the first time I've ever reversed any problem with euphyllias, so thank you guys so much for your advice.

I've found that feeding the hammers with a pair of tweezers and pushing/spreading the bits of shrimp over the tentacles is better than feeding them with a turkey baster/dropper and shooting the shrimp onto the tentacles with a burst of water, somehow the heads don't seem that scared of a piece of moving food ruffling their tentacles as opposed to a burst of water.

Now Nitrates at the end of the day have accumulated to about 1ppm, and phospate to just detectable (less than 0.03ppm). I'm gonna keep the current dosing regime, or maybe reduce it by ~20% so that the stock of N and P in the water remains stable and doesn't keep increasing indefinitely.

All my SPS are also much appreciating this increase in nutrients, my pink stylo has colored up nicely and the pale areas of my pink pocillopora have become darker day by day.
 

Dburr1014

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The head with the worst of it is now growing the flesh band back over the green part of the skeleton.
I don't think that is a thing. Do you have any pics currently?

I do believe 100% they can be reversed but growing back over the green part I don't think this what you're seeing. I believe that may stop recession and the coralite keeps growing up and the flesh will stay where it is appearing to be growing down.

But I'm very happy that they are reversing!
 

VintageReefer

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I don't think that is a thing. Do you have any pics currently?

I do believe 100% they can be reversed but growing back over the green part I don't think this what you're seeing. I believe that may stop recession and the coralite keeps growing up and the flesh will stay where it is appearing to be growing down.

But I'm very happy that they are reversing!
I have a torch that was in bad shape in a neglected system and the fleshband was completely gone

I moved to my main tank hoping the fleshband would regrow. Instead, the torch grew a new skeleton on top of the old head. It did continue vertical growth and made a new trunk and flesh band, on top of the old head. Wild stuff
 
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ryukendoK

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I don't think that is a thing. Do you have any pics currently?

I do believe 100% they can be reversed but growing back over the green part I don't think this what you're seeing. I believe that may stop recession and the coralite keeps growing up and the flesh will stay where it is appearing to be growing down.

But I'm very happy that they are reversing!
I don't mean that the coral is growing back down the skeleton, just that the flesh band has expanded back down beyond the recently-receded white area back into the green part just by a little bit, so that some of the skeleton under the flesh is green and that is visible through the transparent flesh.

I've been continuing with the current setup (dosing ammonia and phosphate) and feeding by gently brushing the euphyllia with long, thin pieces of sliced shrimp, and they've increased so much in the quantity of flesh over the past week its crazy. Feeding them without using a baster/dropper but just gently placing the shrimp on their tentacles using a tweezer really really works, now I don't even have to turn off the pumps and they successfully eat 100% of the time, even frozen and thawed shrimp too. Probably because they have more protein their gold tips have become much brighter too. And the whole head is much darker in color. Very happy with how they're doing now!
 

Zuluuz

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I really love Euphyllias, especially hammers and torches, but have lost every single one that I've got typically over the course of several months, and the one I have now is starting to show slow but steady tissue recession of the flesh band on one of the polyps. The Euphyllias I've gotten seem to do fine for several months to half a year, but all begin showing tissue recession of the flesh band a few months in, while the polyps are fully inflated. Eventually the polyps begin to retract during the day, a little bit at first and then more and more. Finally the heads begin dying off, with flesh slowing peeling off the skeleton over the course of a week, starting with one polyp and progressing to the rest. At the advanced stage of this I often take the coral out to dispose of it, and the skeleton smells sufurous, even though there is no BJD.

I'm not the only one with this problem--it seems R2R is absolutely inundated with threads on Euphyllia flesh bands receding, or Euphyllia heads retracted and eventually peeling off the skeleton (not even more severe problems like polyp bailout or BJD, just decline in flesh band followed by coral death). For example, just today I saw two threads at the same time on this phenomenon on the front page:


I know my husbandry is not perfect--my alk has fluctuated from 6-8 over the course of weeks, and I have persistently low nutrient levels even though I dose about .3ppm ammonia and .03ppm phosphate per day. But some of the tanks with this phenomenon have perfect parameters (e.g. the second link I posted), and others have tried treating the tank with cipro to no avail.

What is the actual secret to keeping Euphyllia happy over the long term (years), so you can grow basketball-sized Euphyllia? Even tanks with perfect parameters get tissue recession, or even BJD! How do long-term successful keepers of tanks full of giant Euphyllia do it??!?!?! Please share your experience, I'm sure it will help so many reefkeepers here.
 

sawdonkey

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I’ve kept my tank phosphate 0-.05 for over a year and my torches grew great. From one head to 8

Hammer from 2 head to 20

I now keep my phosphate .3-.5, and am experiencing the same growth rates

So I don’t believe it’s phosphate levels at all.

Nitrates have been 2-20 and I’ve not had corals impacted.

I don’t really have a secret…I feed them 1-3x a week. I keep them mid flow, and 150-250 par

I’ve moved them from mid level to sandbed and find they adapt fine

You may have a bacterial issue. I had bjd one one came in a bad shipment and that spread in my tank until I treated the entire tank with cipro for 7 or 8 days

I’m with you on this. I don’t find torches or hammers very sensitive to anything. My tank is mostly SpS, but probably considered a little dirtier water than your typical stick tank.

My torches reproduce like crazy. I give away 5-10 head dragon soul colonies somewhat often. I didn’t pay for most of the acros in my tank because I grew an expensive torch into an huge colony and traded about 30 heads of it for tons of acros. I mostly grew this out when my tank was stabilizing after a move, going through Dino’s etc….and I grew it out in my sump!

In my experience, euphilia is not that impacted my flow, nutrients, light, etc. even though I have a pretty successful SPStank, my alk does fluctuate sometimes due to laziness, and the euphilia doesn’t blink.
 

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