What is the best way to connect rock?

[Philip Chin]

What about live rock that is in the tank already?? I been using zip ties and it seems pretty solid. Do you think JBL Pro Haru Universal Adhesive or
Clear Underwater Sealant 2.53 Fl Oz or 75ml, Clear Gold Label Koi Pond and Aquarium Sealant Bonds and Seals Leaks Underwater will be work to help further a more solid bond????

 

[Bmasculine]

I used this my last build, it worked great and a year later still holding strong. I used it to construct a bridge and an arch as well as hold everything else. Aquamaxx makes this

 

[Philip Chin]

thanks, Bmasculine. I will give it a try!

 

[ravi197699]

I used white Portland cement 1:1 (cement, sand) ratio and made small 1 inch balls and only used it on key touch points and once dry, it will be pretty solid, here is my aquascape

 

[Pntbll687]

I have always just stacked my rock for easy future removal .

I have always done this. You can still make arches and caves, just takes some time.

Being able to get the rock out easily really helps if you need to catch a fish, frag some coral, or just want to rescape the tank down the road.

 

[VbReefer]

I used to free stack .Loved it because I like to mess around and change things. Also comes in handy when you don't research properly and have to take a troublesome fish or some rogue hitchhiker out. As well as any dropped frags or frags knocked over by snails.

Then I read about the drilling approach. I was sold. Requires masonry bits and a hammer drill for the best results. Go very slow at first. You need to get a feel for which rocks will take some abuse and be fine and which rocks will fall to pieces. Be prepared to crack a few pieces .
I used a 3/8 masonry bit and 3/8 black Delrin/acetate rod from Amazon. It's a HDPE product if I'm not mistaken.
I found that 4-5" sections worked best most of the time with a few exceptions.
I had to move my tank and it's all established live rock so i set up tubs for everything and had a 5g bucket for rinsing drilled rock. Using a old towel helps keep the rock steady while drilling.*Set rock on towel to drill.
I drilled a ton of 3/8 holes in all my rock. Then it became a live rock erector set. I can pull pieces off and move them. Most all the joints are hidden and those that weren't were hidden with a piece of rubble. Coraline grows on the rods fast as well. Very stiff and strong. I have a few floating shelfs that are only supported by a single rod. I followed an older write up and made 3 bases with 2 or 3 base rocks connected to a single rock above them. Then you can bridge the bases for large arches and caves.
I also drilled a ton of 1/2" holes for frag plugs although I can't stand them. *the plugs
I feel this is truly the best single method. You get the flexibility of free stacking with almost all the security of epoxy in a modular system that's easy to change around from time to time.

Here's a link to my build thread. There's some pictures of the results and process there but no update since the move and the new scape. On the 2nd page. First pic is of one of the old 75g tanks that both went into the 210.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/vbreefers-210-build.293792

I'll post some pics of the new scape And floating rocks tomorrow

 

[VbReefer]

Lights just came on and sunlight is pouring in so pics aren't the best

 

[BigHildy53]

For my base rocks I used Marco Rocks nylon rods and nuts.

 

[Matt Carden]

I used to free stack .Loved it because I like to mess around and change things. Also comes in handy when you don't research properly and have to take a troublesome fish or some rogue hitchhiker out. As well as any dropped frags or frags knocked over by snails.

Then I read about the drilling approach. I was sold. Requires masonry bits and a hammer drill for the best results. Go very slow at first. You need to get a feel for which rocks will take some abuse and be fine and which rocks will fall to pieces. Be prepared to crack a few pieces .
I used a 3/8 masonry bit and 3/8 black Delrin/acetate rod from Amazon. It's a HDPE product if I'm not mistaken.
I found that 4-5" sections worked best most of the time with a few exceptions.
I had to move my tank and it's all established live rock so i set up tubs for everything and had a 5g bucket for rinsing drilled rock. Using a old towel helps keep the rock steady while drilling.*Set rock on towel to drill.
I drilled a ton of 3/8 holes in all my rock. Then it became a live rock erector set. I can pull pieces off and move them. Most all the joints are hidden and those that weren't were hidden with a piece of rubble. Coraline grows on the rods fast as well. Very stiff and strong. I have a few floating shelfs that are only supported by a single rod. I followed an older write up and made 3 bases with 2 or 3 base rocks connected to a single rock above them. Then you can bridge the bases for large arches and caves.
I also drilled a ton of 1/2" holes for frag plugs although I can't stand them. *the plugs
I feel this is truly the best single method. You get the flexibility of free stacking with almost all the security of epoxy in a modular system that's easy to change around from time to time.

Here's a link to my build thread. There's some pictures of the results and process there but no update since the move and the new scape. On the 2nd page. First pic is of one of the old 75g tanks that both went into the 210.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/vbreefers-210-build.293792

I'll post some pics of the new scape And floating rocks tomorrow

I planned on doing something like this also. I'm glad you posted your experience so I can reference your experience Thank you