What PAR is best for a SPS dominant tank and where do you keep yours? | BRStv Investigates

randyBRS

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Hey guys!

Here it is, the first installment of the light testing series of BRStv Investigates! Today Ryan discusses optimal PAR levels for SPS corals and we came to that conclusion. We also work toward developing a base line for those with LED lighting to emulate, based on the longevity of proven success with T5 and MH lighting!

This is really an interesting one and only gets better from here!

-Find all of our reefing videos HERE!








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revhtree

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Oh perfect! I really need this new series of videos/studies!
 

Velcro

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Ugh I really want to watch this right now but I'm in a conference :( Just switched to LEDs and can't wait to see what kind of PAR I should work up to.
 

Jeremy Luke

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I've got some questions about this video. In it BRS says it's 120g tank. The Spectra appears to be the same length as the tank so I'm assuming it's the 48" Spectra. The video states the tank is 40x20. A standard 120g is 48x24x24. Is the tank in fact 40x20? Also what ballasts / setting are you driving the Radiums with?

I have the 48" Spectra with 250w radiums and blue+ T5s over a 48" Elos 120xl so I am particularly interested.
 

Ryanbrs

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The tank is 48 x 24 but that's outside dimensions we need room for the sensors and measurement apparatus in the tank. We selected 40 x 20 because it was nice even 4" squares which are easy to understand visually in the charts we created.

Ballast was luxcore set to normal 250 watt. Some reefers will use the super lumens setting with radiums which is a bit higher.
 

Jeremy Luke

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Thanks for the quick response. I use the same ballasts set on super lumens. I'm excited to learn that I should definitely be giving my acros enough par.
 

Ryanbrs

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So for a true mixed reef, it looks like shooting for 50 PAR at the bottom, up to about 250 at the top, would be a reasonable starting point.

I often find it funny that the general progression is LPS tank -> Mixed tank -> SPS tank when the most difficult tank is mixed for sure. The ideal flow and lighting differences between SPS and LPS is pretty large. It is much easier to do one or the other than achieve an environment that supports both equally well.

The best mixed tanks require a significant amount of zoning and acclimation.
 

iemsparticus

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I often find it funny that the general progression is LPS tank -> Mixed tank -> SPS tank when the most difficult tank is mixed for sure. The ideal flow and lighting differences between SPS and LPS is pretty large. It is much easier to do one or the other than achieve an environment that supports both equally well.

The best mixed tanks require a significant amount of zoning and acclimation.
And that is the challenge I am throwing myself into. :)
 

Robthorn

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Maybe we should say tolerence or preference instead of requirement. I have been keeping sps (mostly acros ) with lps and softies for about 17 years in the same tanks. I have had 6500 iwasakis to radions. 2500 gph on a 180 with no sea swirls or powerheads to about 20,000+gph turn over in my current 250g. I just throw the coral in where I have space. Lol I am now out of space. :-( I adjust my lights to my eyes and alk consumption. If I turn the lights (led) up and my alk consumption increases over the next few days I now I didn't go to far.
 

iemsparticus

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Maybe we should say tolerence or preference instead of requirement. I have been keeping sps (mostly acros ) with lps and softies for about 17 years in the same tanks. I have had 6500 iwasakis to radions. 2500 gph on a 180 with no sea swirls or powerheads to about 20,000+gph turn over in my current 250g. I just throw the coral in where I have space. Lol I am now out of space. :-( I adjust my lights to my eyes and alk consumption. If I turn the lights (led) up and my alk consumption increases over the next few days I now I didn't go to far.
Sounds like you are either extremely intuitive, or extremely lucky, to me. ;)
 

Robthorn

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Well way back it is what we had to work with. I don't think I am special there are just so many things and ways that work. My most prized coral I have ever owned was a baby blue abrolhosensis the was growing like crazy in the 6500k iwasaki tank with the low flow.
Not trying to crack on brs because I watch and enjoy every video they put out. A lot of us use require a lot when we should probably not. I catch myself doing it all the time.
I think we are all very lucky to be able to keep these animals in captivity. So yeah I am lucky. :) And I test a lot. Almost daily on Alk.
 

Ryanbrs

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Maybe we should say tolerence or preference instead of requirement. I have been keeping sps (mostly acros ) with lps and softies for about 17 years in the same tanks. I have had 6500 iwasakis to radions. 2500 gph on a 180 with no sea swirls or powerheads to about 20,000+gph turn over in my current 250g. I just throw the coral in where I have space. Lol I am now out of space. :-( I adjust my lights to my eyes and alk consumption. If I turn the lights (led) up and my alk consumption increases over the next few days I now I didn't go to far.

No meter will ever replace 17 years of experience. Well done :)
 

DLHDesign

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Great video as always! I guess this means I have to clean off the par sensor on my Seneye and see where I'm at. Which means a trip to the store to get more vinegar, since it's crusted over with coralline...

Looking forward to everything ahead.
 

JaimeAdams

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It's probably beyond these videos, but I would love to see a conversation not simply about ideal light for growth but one for coloration as well. I know that you guys did touch on that briefly in the video, but is it safe to say that increasing PAR will increase the colorations as a result of the coral trying to protect it's self from the increase or will it produce more or better (to our eyes at least) colors with ideal photosynthesis range?
 

Reefcowboy

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I often find it funny that the general progression is LPS tank -> Mixed tank -> SPS tank when the most difficult tank is mixed for sure. The ideal flow and lighting differences between SPS and LPS is pretty large. It is much easier to do one or the other than achieve an environment that supports both equally well.

The best mixed tanks require a significant amount of zoning and acclimation.
This is so true. Chalices many times follow sps only tanks(myself included) and it is tough to make sps thrive without making some chalices unhappy in regards to lighting and even flow.

Some colorful LPS keep up with sps requirements allowing for that extra movement on the bottom of the tanks we look for. Australian gonis are great in that regard.
 

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