Thanks! I’ve been floating around here for a while, but haven’t posted before. I’ve been into the hobby for a year now and love it. It’s amazing what you learn after such a short time. I always enjoy this type of thread.
What piece of Equipment would I have bought if I knew how important it was in the beginning.
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OP
OP
I hope this thread has been of help, interest to everyone, and if it has then I would also suggest looking through this thread as well https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/w...ment-you-have-purchased-for-your-reef.726514/
Don't forget to come back though..
Don't forget to come back though..
Mine would have been not buying "starter" lights and opting for the right lights for the tank the first time around lol since then i havent really found a lot to be "i wish i would have..."Hopefully some long time Reefers will chime in here, even if they agree with other posters about the equipment, giving us an indication of what equipment we should have bought when we setup that tank. In over twenty years of playing in water I should have done this sooner.
For me, I wish I had started with an ATO, especially in an AIO (All In One) tank. I run an AIO with the lid off, and it is incredible how often that ATO is operating during the day, and how salinity will swing during the day without the ATO on an AIO. Salinity is very important to keep stable. All my independent tanks now have ATO on them, and I have seen a dramatic response, in the absence of my laziness.
What was your piece of equipment?
Cheers
Although i do need to get an ATO for my tank...do you have a suggestion?
OP
OP
Not many to choose from, but have settled on the Tunze Nano 3152. I try and pick these up during a black sale event.
tnw50cal
Valuable Member
I know what I would not have bought---gravel. I find it much easier to maintain a bottomless tank than one with gravel. Even with the chance of more problems when first setting up a barebottom tank.
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Anchor
Well-Known Member
I am leaning towards a couple possibles. I have had the zipper surgery and lugging buckets around is a small problem but strength is returning.. SO.. I would say Auto Water changes or at least a means to not carry buckets. As I have to travel about 20 feet even carrying what I pull out.
My second choice has to be ATO.. for all the obvious reasons.
My second choice has to be ATO.. for all the obvious reasons.
dhboiler
Community Member
Canisters can be a pain to maintain. I was more apt to skip or put off maintenance because it was a hassle. It was a lot easier to change out a filter pad once and awhile.
Ulm_nano_diybudgetreef
Active Member
Yes... fishless cycling for a month is definitely overrated ;Shifty I thought watching paint dry needed patience, but this is a whole new level.
A bit embarrassed to admit this but took me 20 years to get an ATO, doser, and rodi unit all of which happened this year while i am sitting at home due to covid. I think part of the reason is because I was still young and active and didn’t think about automation as much. Now that I have to think about other priorities made sense to set it and forget it. Used a drinking water system before and while that’s great think 0 tds is better for consistency. Next up like a lot of ppl said awc!
Hannah alkalinty tester and a digital salinity meter.
ichthyogeek
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A large mixing vessel + mixing pump for doing water changes. I spent 10 years manually mixing salt in little 5 gallon buckets until I realized that the 20 gallon play bucket was clean and available. AND I didn't have to spend 30 minutes chanting "double double toil and trouble" while stirring it after I realized that I had a spare powerhead. Once I move and set everything up, I'm definitely upgrading to a giant rubbermaid trashcan and submersible pump.
fish farmer
2500 Club Member
I have a square 5 gallon container something like this https://www.bestcontainers.com/049-...MIg-bL6Mui6gIVydSzCh1ygQjIEAQYByABEgJjZfD_BwE. I use BRS pharm grade kalk, mixes really well. Very little residue. I usually mix up 3 to 5 gallons at a time manually. I have a rigid piece of tubing going through the cap of the container which ends about an inch off the bottom. This is attached outside the container to the flexible tubing going to the BRS doser, the output hose goes to my sump. The dosing pump is controlled by a standard peg style light timer with 15 minute increments. Doser turns on and doses for 15 minutes every hour. I started with weak kalk 1/4 tsp per gallon and now am up to 1 tsp per gallon.
This is on a mostly softy/LPS 29 gallon tank with heavy coralline growth. My two newest SPS have been doing well for several months. It has been the most consistant way to deliver calcium for me. Slow dripping worked fine for me at times, but would shoot alk really high if I dripped too fast. Kalk reactors, I had one DIY system which in theory works, but I don't like them hooked to an ATO.
If I had more money to spend on better lights, doesn't even have to be anything crazy just something better then my current orbit pros LOL. Now I can't upgrade due to how my tank is configured unless i want to rearrange all my corals and risk killing them. Lesson learned for the next tank haha.
Darren in Tacoma
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My first tank was a 120 with metal halides and no ato. Every morning before work I had to go to the basement for a gallon and a 1/2 of top up water. Also good long handled tools. No more sticking my entire arm into the tank. Well, not as much.
Mrtakeoff53
Active Member
ATO 100000%. It keeps salinity, alk and ca super stable (I run kalk in my ato). Most things are a ‘nice to have’ (top of the line wave makers, $800 LEDs, bigger tank, dosing pumps, auto water changes) but EVERY tank ever made is going to need to add back evaporated water. This is the biggest time saver ever.
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