Johniejumbo
Valuable Member
Any suggestions on a paint for the inside of my stand? I need one that will be very resistant to the moisture and salt that goes with having a sump.
What type of paint for inside of stand?
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HairyGary
Why do all your fish look like trout?
Appliance epoxy works well.
OP
OP
Johniejumbo
Valuable Member
Hadn’t even thought of that. Good suggestion! Thanks
Will Milberger
Aggie Aquarist
I used killz.
Lots of people have used with success, Kilz as a primer and then a Rustoleum appliance paint for the topcoat.
That said, I plan to do my stand in all white. The following advice comes from an experienced professional contractor / cabinet maker “ericarenee” over on RC. For the primer, she recommends this, which is also available in quart sizes.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser...ot-Exterior-Primer-and-Sealer-00901/100398381
For the topcoat, she recommends this.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-1-...ased-Interior-Exterior-Paint-380001/202263895
She recommends using a high quality brush for oil paint with 1-2oz of linseed oil in per quart of paint mixed into the paint. This will make brush strokes nearly gone..
This is how she paints all of her finish grade projects, maximizing durability for our harsh saltwater environments. I plan on following her advice for my cabinet build.
That said, I plan to do my stand in all white. The following advice comes from an experienced professional contractor / cabinet maker “ericarenee” over on RC. For the primer, she recommends this, which is also available in quart sizes.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser...ot-Exterior-Primer-and-Sealer-00901/100398381
For the topcoat, she recommends this.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-1-...ased-Interior-Exterior-Paint-380001/202263895
She recommends using a high quality brush for oil paint with 1-2oz of linseed oil in per quart of paint mixed into the paint. This will make brush strokes nearly gone..
This is how she paints all of her finish grade projects, maximizing durability for our harsh saltwater environments. I plan on following her advice for my cabinet build.
A simple stain would be ok, there’s a water sealer for basements and walls called Lock-Out, it’s a paintable epoxy that’s seals extremely well.
Be sure there’s enough ventilation behind the stand for air circulation, and there won’t be an issue.
Be sure there’s enough ventilation behind the stand for air circulation, and there won’t be an issue.
mrpizzaface
Well-Known Member
typically any type of solvent based paint will cure to a harder finish. the harder finish is more durable and easier to clean in my opinion. Bin primer is great, and will sand out super smooth. If you can find benjamin moore products in your area, Benjamin Moore Advance is a waterborne alkyd. The finish is hard, the brushstrokes tend to level out and it cleans up with soap and water. If fumes arent and issue most glossy enamels (by Rustoleum and others) are very durable with a nice hard glossy finish.
mstockmaster
Active Member
I used this for the inside of my stand. I had it leftover from some speaker building projects. It basically dries to a thick water resistant plastic texture, almost like truck bed liner.
https://www.parts-express.com/acry-...source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
https://www.parts-express.com/acry-...source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
anit77
Active Member
I've found that using Appliance Epoxy on the bare wood works great. Better than using kiltz 1st. I've done both. The 1st few coats really soak into the wood once cured the next coat or two will give a nice shiny finish that is waterproof. Moisture the gets behind kiltz will cause flaking.
A wood of warning on the Epoxy. Wear a mask and good ventilation. Don't even breath the vapors when its flashing off as it cures. Read the label. This stuff is no joke but it works about the best for this application. Just be prepared to do 6 to 8 coats. As long as it's soaking into the wood it won't sag or run if laid on a little heavy. But after that go lighter.
A wood of warning on the Epoxy. Wear a mask and good ventilation. Don't even breath the vapors when its flashing off as it cures. Read the label. This stuff is no joke but it works about the best for this application. Just be prepared to do 6 to 8 coats. As long as it's soaking into the wood it won't sag or run if laid on a little heavy. But after that go lighter.
rioreef
Active Member
I used Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Paint. Comes in several colors too. This is a high gloss marine enamel, above the water line boat paint. There are other brands out there, but the point is a boat grade paint.
I did two coats of the white and it looked great and continues to defy the undertank elements.
I did two coats of the white and it looked great and continues to defy the undertank elements.
One think to add....I've siliconed all corners with paintable caulk in the past prior to painting. This seals any moisture entry points and if the bead is small and nicely done (use masking tape if you have to) the finish product looks absolutely great.
With the above setup I've had my skimmer collection container overflow at night and about an inch of water just sat in the stand until I discovered it during the day. (apex leak probe was ordered later that day)
With the above setup I've had my skimmer collection container overflow at night and about an inch of water just sat in the stand until I discovered it during the day. (apex leak probe was ordered later that day)
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