Where can I find a white banded possum wrasse or pink streaked wrasse?

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SauceyReef

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I think I may start a thread asking if anyone has successfully QT'd a possum wrasse - although I may have already done this a month or two ago when I first noticed. As I stated earlier I feel like the only way it could work would be to waste a lot of pod bottles and liverock to meds. I imagine once my tank makes it to the month 1 year + mark (in a few months) I should start seeing less scratching periods?
 

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The hardest fish to keep alive for me is fairy wrasse. They freak out from my bengal cats and get spinal injuries. I sold the ones I had left. I stopped keeping firefish for same reason.
 

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I have one Anampses and Two leopards and they made it through Hybrid TTM QT easily. I would buy more but tank doesn't have the room as the Kuiter's is one of the more aggressive leopards.

Ich won't kill most wrasse, they are pretty resistant but if a person has other very ich prone fish, they may want to think twice about not QT a wrasse. For QT they just need sand, some fake realistic looking hides, good quality food and dim or ambient lighting.

Some people even put them in acclimation boxes in the DT because of established wrasse which is generally a lot smaller than a QT. Some don't even add sand (I always put sand in my acclimation box).
I Dont hate QT but I’m also not a fan of it (If it’s done properly, I like it but if not then I would rather put the fish into the reef)
Another con to QT I find is how the wrasse or other aggressive fish are getting more established by the day as the other fish is being cured of illness just to most likely gain ich again.
 

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I Dont hate QT but I’m also not a fan of it (If it’s done properly, I like it but if not then I would rather put the fish into the reef)
Another con to QT I find is how the wrasse or other aggressive fish are getting more established by the day as the other fish is being cured of illness just to most likely gain ich again.

Why would they get ich again?

I mean everything should be done properly in this hobby.

I would say a wrasse through QT and eating aggressively by the end and getting bolder would fair better against established fish. That is the part of QT. My friend's leopard, he added a second one... the resident leopard killed the new one by keeping it in the sand. Aggressively chasing it every time it came out till it went back in. It is a large tank with rock and corals so he wasn't about to tear it apart. It may have been different if he had QT it and got it eating and comfortable. It may have held up for itself. He also could have used an acclimation box and let the resident fish get used to the new one. It can go both ways.

I didn't QT for like 10 or 12 years and it worked ok. Now I like doing it... made keeping fish even easier for me.
 
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The hardest fish to keep alive for me is fairy wrasse. They freak out from my bengal cats and get spinal injuries. I sold the ones I had left. I stopped keeping firefish for same reason.
That’s annoying, I find fairy wrasse are one of the core wrasse with the most colour (Although, I prefer radiants and choat leopards).
I think I may start a thread asking if anyone has successfully QT'd a possum wrasse - although I may have already done this a month or two ago when I first noticed. As I stated earlier I feel like the only way it could work would be to waste a lot of pod bottles and liverock to meds. I imagine once my tank makes it to the month 1 year + mark (in a few months) I should start seeing less scratching periods?
I think so, I would try observation it more and see if this behaviour wears off, if not then I would maybe start thinking about QT but to me, QT should only be used as a last resort.
 

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Why would they get ich again?

I mean everything should be done properly in this hobby.
That’s true and sometimes fish tend to get stressed and when they do get too stressed ich can take its place. I trust my LFS to do QT enough so that I don’t have to do it - I also get my fish from that one LFS.
 

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That’s true and sometimes fish tend to get stressed and when they do get too stressed ich can take its place. I trust my LFS to do QT enough so that I don’t have to do it - I also get my fish from that one LFS.

With hybrid TTM, ich will never show itself. Simply transferring too fast. It can never re-attach. The fish is out of the water for like two seconds. Usually eating again within 30 min of transfer.

I don't use copper so can't comment on that. I try to avoid meds when able.
 

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With hybrid TTM, ich will never show itself. Simply transferring too fast. It can never re-attach. The fish is out of the water for like two seconds. Usually eating again within 30 min of transfer.

I don't use copper so can't comment on that. I try to avoid meds when able.
I’ve never heard of hybrid TTM then again, over here we get very few ways to QT that arent Copper based (Thats mainly why I avoid it).
 
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TTM (tank transfer method) is one of the considerations for a possible method to QT my possum wrasse. The difficult part in my eyes is being able to easily catch the fish and not stress it out to much while maintaining a decent live rock system. I’ve never done TTM and can’t think of a way to easily achieve this. This fish gets pretty easily spooked even when I clean the glass.
Why would they get ich again?

I mean everything should be done properly in this hobby.

I would say a wrasse through QT and eating aggressively by the end and getting bolder would fair better against established fish. That is the part of QT. My friend's leopard, he added a second one... the resident leopard killed the new one by keeping it in the sand. Aggressively chasing it every time it came out till it went back in. It is a large tank with rock and corals so he wasn't about to tear it apart. It may have been different if he had QT it and got it eating and comfortable. It may have held up for itself. He also could have used an acclimation box and let the resident fish get used to the new one. It can go both ways.

I didn't QT for like 10 or 12 years and it worked ok. Now I like doing it... made keeping fish even easier f
Would you have any suggestions on a possible QT method for a fish like this? I have a Yasha goby in the tank. I feel if it was just the possum it would be a little easier to do the TTM using the DT.
 

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It’s not hard. Just remove the rock and use a plastic silicone colander to quickly scoop them up before they know much of what is going on.

If you just have a small tank and a few fish already doing well. I wouldn’t bother.

When adding fish to a larger tank with multiple fish and potentially ich prone species. It gets more complicated then a nano.
 
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It’s not hard. Just remove the rock and use a plastic silicone colander to quickly scoop them up before they know much of what is going on.

If you just have a small tank and a few fish already doing well. I wouldn’t bother.

When adding fish to a larger tank with multiple fish and potentially ich prone species. It gets more complicated then a nano.
I am curious what would you do in my situation? Or if anyone else wants to give their opinion please chime in (to reiterate: 1 yasha goby and a possum wrasse together in a mixed reef nano with ich). Only seen scratching on the possum wrasse occasionally.
 

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I am curious what would you do in my situation? Or if anyone else wants to give their opinion please chime in (to reiterate: 1 yasha goby and a possum wrasse together in a mixed reef nano with ich). Only seen scratching on the possum wrasse occasionally.
Probably monitor. Also might be flukes? It’s easier when you QT from the beginning as QT is faster than fallow.
 
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Probably monitor. Also might be flukes? It’s easier when you QT from the beginning as QT is faster than fallow.
Makes sense. I had to make a tough call on that one and hope in the long run I made the best decision. I have only seen some rock scratching so I am unsure what fluke/disease it could be. I would think though waiting until the fish is "sickly" would just cause a demise in the QT.
 

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Makes sense. I had to make a tough call on that one and hope in the long run I made the best decision. I have only seen some rock scratching so I am unsure what fluke/disease it could be. I would think though waiting until the fish is "sickly" would just cause a demise in the QT.

It could. Also pulling it for fallow is more risk since fallow is 45-76 days. There is no right answer. One person will say they did nothing and the fish got better and the next will say they wished they treated sooner and then next person will say QT kills fish and then next will say they have great success with QT.
 

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There is no right answer. One person will say they did nothing and the fish got better and the next will say they wished they treated sooner and then next person will say QT kills fish and then next will say they have great success with QT.
Dam, I wanted to say something different, but you covered all the bases. :cool: Well, most of them anyway. :rolleyes:
 

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It could. Also pulling it for fallow is more risk since fallow is 45-76 days. There is no right answer. One person will say they did nothing and the fish got better and the next will say they wished they treated sooner and then next person will say QT kills fish and then next will say they have great success with QT.
Yeah, I’m one who has had so far success with no QT except to grow out my more prized wrasse (Naoko & Blue Star) I nearly used my nano tank as a grow out for my smaller Lubbock but since he has gotten to about half the size of the other Lubbock in about 2 months (I think I got him in august since I got the Blue star in September and the naoko in April or May) I’m so glad I didn’t.
 

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Hey everyone appreciate ya'll chiming in for some information! I have spoken with like 10 stores around NE Ohio where I live and probably 10-20 online stores as well. Not a single LFS in my area can get either the possum or pink streaked pygmy wrasse. Also all of the online stores are saying the divers are not getting them in yet. It must have something to do with seasonal availability based off the species. Maybe they are not as active during the colder seasons and when Summer comes up they are easier to catch?

I am looking for either the pink streaked or just the white banded possum (tanaka). They stay a little smaller than the yellow banded which is more desirable for me because of my small tank. I am on like 10 email lists. If anyone see's a link please share !




That is so cool.. Gosh I wish a store had them here!
My Tanaka's pygmy wrasse is actually bigger than my yellow banded possum wrasse. I have yet to see a white banded or a pink streak on sale. Unfortunately they are just not coming into the trade these past several months. I have seen several yellow banded possum wrasse for sale I actually have 2 right now and the older of the two has stayed below two inches for the 6ish months I've had him. You should be fine with a yellow banded.
 

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My Tanaka's pygmy wrasse is actually bigger than my yellow banded possum wrasse. I have yet to see a white banded or a pink streak on sale. Unfortunately they are just not coming into the trade these past several months. I have seen several yellow banded possum wrasse for sale I actually have 2 right now and the older of the two has stayed below two inches for the 6ish months I've had him. You should be fine with a yellow banded.
In 6 months wrasse usually grow very fast (My Scott’s got to 3” from a 1” fish in 6 months, my male Cebu Lubbock got from 1” to 3” in 6 months, my Male Indonesian Lubbock got to 2” from .5” in about 2 or so months, my blue star leopard went from .25” to around .5” in about a month) they tend to slow down in growth as they get to half their max size IME.
I think that eventually the yellow banded will get bigger than your “Tanaka”. Can you show a photo of the tanaka because if he’s sat at above 2” than to me that’s the white banded possum wrasse. I had my tanakas for around 8 months and he was about 1” and no bigger, yes I never had him a year (F****** urchin ate it whilst I was trying to sleep - I heard it all happen but didn’t see it and thought it was something else happening outside).
 

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These pics are from July. I'll have to get some newer ones on Monday when I'm back in the office. My Tanaka's is much larger than my yellow banded. Close to 3 inches now. I've had my Tanaka's for about a year now.
In 6 months wrasse usually grow very fast (My Scott’s got to 3” from a 1” fish in 6 months, my male Cebu Lubbock got from 1” to 3” in 6 months, my Male Indonesian Lubbock got to 2” from .5” in about 2 or so months, my blue star leopard went from .25” to around .5” in about a month) they tend to slow down in growth as they get to half their max size IME.
I think that eventually the yellow banded will get bigger than your “Tanaka”. Can you show a photo of the tanaka because if he’s sat at above 2” than to me that’s the white banded possum wrasse. I had my tanakas for around 8 months and he was about 1” and no bigger, yes I never had him a year (F****** urchin ate it whilst I was trying to sleep - I heard it all happen but didn’t see it and thought it was something else happening outside).

20210716_080627.jpg 20210720_091057.jpg
 
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