Where do I begin with this dimmable Aquatic life T5 hybrid?

christwendt

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Hello everyone
I have had great success with my 25 gallon but used only LED. I’m setting up my 48 inch 100 gallon upgrade and bought the dimmable aquatic life T5 to use with my apex. I plan to use 2 ai hydra 32 on each side and potentially add one to middle of tank as it matures and shades. I’m going to have another mixed reef but 70 percent sps acropora. My questions are
How long do I run T5 when I also have Led? Example do I supplement with my led or t5?

how do I measure par as it will be changing as the led and t5 are on max.. for example do I take measurements for optimal par with both on their max for 7 hours then just ramp either one or both down? Sorry these are sorta of complex questions I can’t seem to find anywhere.
My plan is this

take par measurements for optimal par for sps on top and LPS lower portions of tank when led is at max and T5 is at max. This may be 70 percent on T5 as it’s dimmable but I mean max as in that’s the highest it goes for the day. Allow those optimal settings for 7 hours. Then ramp down both Led and T5 until T5 shuts off and allow the Led to go into the night on lower settings until it’s fully off.
Thank you for your help and time. Here are pics of current tank and the new one!

F3A2E682-033F-4324-A870-A587BE629A92.png 75844559-992E-45B5-8551-EDC06DABA0D8.jpeg
 

Ocelaris

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Here's what I did: Rent a par meter once from BRS. Take measurements around the tank with the LEDs cranked up all the way, and a few other in-between combos. Record the settings and return the meter. T5s = 6-8 hours, LEDs ramp up with 3-5 hours full tilt (whatever that is, 50% etc...). Personally I have LEDs start up at 9am and turn off completely by 10pm. At 10am T5s kick on and at 5 or so they turn off. I never go above 60% on my Kessils and am hitting 500 par just below the surface.

I would tilt heavier ATI blue plus for supplemental.

 
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christwendt

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Here's what I did: Rent a par meter once from BRS. Take measurements around the tank with the LEDs cranked up all the way, and a few other in-between combos. Record the settings and return the meter. T5s = 6-8 hours, LEDs ramp up with 3-5 hours full tilt (whatever that is, 50% etc...). Personally I have LEDs start up at 9am and turn off completely by 10pm. At 10am T5s kick on and at 5 or so they turn off. I never go above 60% on my Kessils and am hitting 500 par just below the surface.

I would tilt heavier ATI blue plus for supplemental.

Thank you very much. Little confusion when you are testing the par you sat crank led way up. Is that with the T5 also on?
 
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christwendt

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Here's what I did: Rent a par meter once from BRS. Take measurements around the tank with the LEDs cranked up all the way, and a few other in-between combos. Record the settings and return the meter. T5s = 6-8 hours, LEDs ramp up with 3-5 hours full tilt (whatever that is, 50% etc...). Personally I have LEDs start up at 9am and turn off completely by 10pm. At 10am T5s kick on and at 5 or so they turn off. I never go above 60% on my Kessils and am hitting 500 par just below the surface.

I would tilt heavier ATI blue plus for supplemental.

also that link is very helpful. Thanks :)
 

Ocelaris

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Well, you test everything at 100,then 70 the 50 percent until you get what numbers you want. I've never used dimmable T5, so I would just use them at full brightness personally, since I use leds to ramp up. But go wild, it's not going to make a huge difference with the T5 dimming as they're not a point source.
 
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christwendt

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Well, you test everything at 100,then 70 the 50 percent until you get what numbers you want. I've never used dimmable T5, so I would just use them at full brightness personally, since I use leds to ramp up. But go wild, it's not going to make a huge difference with the T5 dimming as they're not a point source.
I get what you’re saying. You have T5 at 100 percent. Then add led based on percent to get your adequate par. That makes a lot of sense. Would you be willing to share your tank? I’d like to see results of people using both :) thanks again!
 

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How many bulbs? If 6, or more, I would run the T5s at 100% for 8-9 hours and let them do the heavy lifting. Then, blend in the LEDs when you want to change the colors to view. I would not waste the energy or life running the LEDs when the T5s are on. The T5s are more efficient and made to be run at 100% and the spectrum can shift if you run them lower... so just run them at 100%. You won't get too much PAR from even a 10 bulb ATI fixture, but I doubt that you have that many bulbs.

As for bulbs, try equal numbers of Blue Plus and Coral Plus to get started. This is a nice look that is not to windexy. If you want it more blue, then more Blue Plus, whiter then more Coral Plus.
 
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christwendt

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T
How many bulbs? If 6, or more, I would run the T5s at 100% for 8-9 hours and let them do the heavy lifting. Then, blend in the LEDs when you want to change the colors to view. I would not waste the energy or life running the LEDs when the T5s are on. The T5s are more efficient and made to be run at 100% and the spectrum can shift if you run them lower... so just run them at 100%. You won't get too much PAR from even a 10 bulb ATI fixture, but I doubt that you have that many bulbs.

As for bulbs, try equal numbers of Blue Plus and Coral Plus to get started. This is a nice look that is not to windexy. If you want it more blue, then more Blue Plus, whiter then more Coral Plus.
Hello it’s a 4 bulb t5. It’s 48 inches and tank is 48 inches. 24 inches deep. You mention don’t run led except for viewing pleasure but you also mention that the t5 won’t be enough par. Sorry I’m just trying to clarify. Won’t I need to run the led to supplement enough for optimal par for sps ? As you mention I don’t think the t5 will be enough as it’s only 4.
 
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christwendt

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How many bulbs? If 6, or more, I would run the T5s at 100% for 8-9 hours and let them do the heavy lifting. Then, blend in the LEDs when you want to change the colors to view. I would not waste the energy or life running the LEDs when the T5s are on. The T5s are more efficient and made to be run at 100% and the spectrum can shift if you run them lower... so just run them at 100%. You won't get too much PAR from even a 10 bulb ATI fixture, but I doubt that you have that many bulbs.

As for bulbs, try equal numbers of Blue Plus and Coral Plus to get started. This is a nice look that is not to windexy. If you want it more blue, then more Blue Plus, whiter then more Coral Plus.
Also thank you for the bulb augg
How many bulbs? If 6, or more, I would run the T5s at 100% for 8-9 hours and let them do the heavy lifting. Then, blend in the LEDs when you want to change the colors to view. I would not waste the energy or life running the LEDs when the T5s are on. The T5s are more efficient and made to be run at 100% and the spectrum can shift if you run them lower... so just run them at 100%. You won't get too much PAR from even a 10 bulb ATI fixture, but I doubt that you have that many bulbs.

As for bulbs, try equal numbers of Blue Plus and Coral Plus to get started. This is a nice look that is not to windexy. If you want it more blue, then more Blue Plus, whiter then more Coral Plus
How many bulbs? If 6, or more, I would run the T5s at 100% for 8-9 hours and let them do the heavy lifting. Then, blend in the LEDs when you want to change the colors to view. I would not waste the energy or life running the LEDs when the T5s are on. The T5s are more efficient and made to be run at 100% and the spectrum can shift if you run them lower... so just run them at 100%. You won't get too much PAR from even a 10 bulb ATI fixture, but I doubt that you have that many bulbs.

As for bulbs, try equal numbers of Blue Plus and Coral Plus to get started. This is a nice look that is not to windexy. If you want it more blue, then more Blue Plus, whiter then more Coral Plus.
also thank you for the bulb suggestions.
 

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You might need to work in some LEDs depending on the output of the 4 bulb. I would still run them at 100% for 8-9 hours for the bulk of your lighting needs. Move the LEDs in to fill in some PAR and color that you might want.

If you had a 6, 8 or even 10 (you in Europe? :) ), then you would not likely need the LEDs at all. You might not need much with 4 depending on the rock scape, area, etc. Some have to supplement four bulbs. If you are using that rock in the PVC tank on the right, then 4 might be fine since that area is compact and kinda tall. Only some time and/or a PAR/PPFD meter will tell. In any case, the T5s are the more complete light source, so let them burn and then supplement with the LEDs.
 

ScottB

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I run a few of those hybrid fixtures myself (not dimmable) along with 3 Hydras over 4 foot frag tanks. I run them essentially the same way @Ocelaris does.

@jda 's point on the T5s is you don't have to worry about them over cooking your coral at all It is the most forgiving light source you can use. And really helpful for eliminating shadows.
 

Ocelaris

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I have a 60x36 tank, the AL hybrid + 5 LED pucks do a great job, but at the edges it's a bit weak. I used to run 10x 80w T5s, but the power and maintenance of getting T5 bulbs was too much of a pain. I can't tell you how many broken bulbs I received over the years, honestly that's my biggest gripe with T5. I'm down to 4x80w and the 5 Kessil pucks, and it's great across 80% of the tank for SPS, where as T5s covered nearly 100%. I'll go eventually to all LEDs simply for the maintenance; spread isn't there, growth isn't as good, but it's convenient. I treat LEDs like T5s, set it once with a par meter and forget it, don't touch it (with the exception if I'm bringing new corals in, sometimes I do a week or two acclimation mode).
 
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christwendt

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You might need to work in some LEDs depending on the output of the 4 bulb. I would still run them at 100% for 8-9 hours for the bulk of your lighting needs. Move the LEDs in to fill in some PAR and color that you might want.

If you had a 6, 8 or even 10 (you in Europe? :) ), then you would not likely need the LEDs at all. You might not need much with 4 depending on the rock scape, area, etc. Some have to supplement four bulbs. If you are using that rock in the PVC tank on the right, then 4 might be fine since that area is compact and kinda tall. Only some time and/or a PAR/PPFD meter will tell. In any case, the T5s are the more complete light source, so let them burn and then supplement with the LEDs.
Haha Europe does tend to prefer T5 don’t they. Thank you for explaining everything. Makes me feel good to know the t5 is a complete source of light. Will just supplement with the LED ai hydra 32 :)
 
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christwendt

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I run a few of those hybrid fixtures myself (not dimmable) along with 3 Hydras over 4 foot frag tanks. I run them essentially the same way @Ocelaris does.

@jda 's point on the T5s is you don't have to worry about them over cooking your coral at all It is the most forgiving light source you can use. And really helpful for eliminating shadows.
Do you think the 48 inch t5 with two ai hydra 32 one on each side will be enough for my tank? It’s 48 inches long and 24 deep. Or do you think I will need a third hydra for the middle ? My rock structure is attached. Just asking since you seem to have experience with this setup and hydras. I will be renting a par meter when it’s time.
 
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christwendt

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I have a 60x36 tank, the AL hybrid + 5 LED pucks do a great job, but at the edges it's a bit weak. I used to run 10x 80w T5s, but the power and maintenance of getting T5 bulbs was too much of a pain. I can't tell you how many broken bulbs I received over the years, honestly that's my biggest gripe with T5. I'm down to 4x80w and the 5 Kessil pucks, and it's great across 80% of the tank for SPS, where as T5s covered nearly 100%. I'll go eventually to all LEDs simply for the maintenance; spread isn't there, growth isn't as good, but it's convenient. I treat LEDs like T5s, set it once with a par meter and forget it, don't touch it (with the exception if I'm bringing new corals in, sometimes I do a week or two acclimation mode).
Awesome i was starting to doubt my purchase in T5 and running full LED but this post is making me feel better. How do the Jessie’s compare to the ai hydra 32 for reference? As I will only have two ai hydra 32 and 4 t5 54watt 48 inch across a 48 inch tank 24 inches deep.
 

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Do you think the 48 inch t5 with two ai hydra 32 one on each side will be enough for my tank? It’s 48 inches long and 24 deep. Or do you think I will need a third hydra for the middle ? My rock structure is attached. Just asking since you seem to have experience with this setup and hydras. I will be renting a par meter when it’s time.
No need to regret your purchase of hybrid T5 fixtures. I find them very effective.

The Hydras are rated for 24X24 so you should be fine depending on your coral selection and placement. A PAR meter would give you total comfort.

My tanks are acropora growout tanks that are packed in edge to edge with pieces and colonies all the way to the glass so I wanted complete coverage and no shadows.
 
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christwendt

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No need to regret your purchase of hybrid T5 fixtures. I find them very effective.

The Hydras are rated for 24X24 so you should be fine depending on your coral selection and placement. A PAR meter would give you total comfort.

My tanks are acropora growout tanks that are packed in edge to edge with pieces and colonies all the way to the glass so I wanted complete coverage and no shadows.
Do you mind sharing some pics of your tank! Thanks :) looking forward to testing them out.
 

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