Who actually has 40+ psi of water pressure from their house?

[Tuan Black]

Nope, no basements here in AZ. I just HATE waiting for water. I can fill a 44g Brute in about 90 minutes.



My TDS from the tap is usually 600-700. Water is TERRIBLE here and no one drinks it without filtration. Most people have softners AND an RO system under the sink for drinking water.

Like wise 80 psi but hard water like hell in the desert. Yuma AZ Thnk god for RODI units. Using tap to mix salt would suck like hell out here.

 

[Will Wohlers]

I have 85 psi and my tds is 4 straight from the faucet. Just bought a house and we have a well . I'm high up in the mountains of western nc.

 

[S.Pepper]

I have 85 psi and my tds is 4 straight from the faucet. Just bought a house and we have a well . I'm high up in the mountains of western nc.

How high up are u? Cashiers, Highands, Lake Toxaway?

 

[JoeJoesonoma]

Started with 50 psi at the faucet. Then i got smart and picked up a booster pump and an additional 75 gpd membrane to upgrade the setup. Now im running at 110 psi at 0 tds. Can fill a 5 gallon container in 17 mins.

 

[Will Wohlers]

How high up are u? Cashiers, Highands, Lake Toxaway?

You're familiar with the area. That's awesome! I am in Lake Toxaway. Just bought the house for my family in March. It's our first home. Are you out this way?

 

[FishyDave]

85 PSI here.

 

[Borg]

40 psi here.
Picked up the booster pump (1/4) from brs.

The first pump was defective but recirved a new one. I have a spectrapure 90 gpd 2:1 ratio

I usually run it at 70-75 psi
Yesterday I ran it at 90 psi. Made around 10 gallons every 2 hours

More pressure quicker results
But be careful to much pressure the fittings / gaskets can be damaged

My rodi can handle 150 psi but to be safe I run it at 70 for the most part.

 

[neupane00]

around 70 psi, 90 tds out of tap

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Appreciate all this I do. It’s been a while since I tested my inlet tds. However last I checked I was getting over 90% rejection before and after I changed the membrane. I have a 7 stage I would say.
-5micron standard sediment change every 30days
(Sucker is chalk full of orange/iron)
-1 micron rosave filter change every 90
-1 BRS universal carbon block change every 6months
-1 membrane change every 18months
-1 cation stage
-1 anion stage
-1 BRS pro mixed bed

I also have it T off after membrane to go to drinking water. Extra carbon filter thing on way to drinking water tank. In addition, my setup is in the basement but my water tanks are on the 1st floor. So I need the actual pressure from the house to get to tanks.

I wonder if I gassed off how long my resin would last. Would buying a 50gallon brute, a few pumps and an airstone running 24/7 cost just as much? Would I get my ROI back in a year?

Any problems in setup or change schedule?

You wouldn't need to run the airstone 24/7. Just get a brute, fill it with RO water, degas it by aerating it for 30 mins - 1 hour, attach a pump to a DI cannister(s), and filter the water to a second brute.

However, I'd strongly suggest that you check your inlet and after RO TDS. It may be that the fairly low pressure that you're operating at and a relatively high inlet TDS is resulting in your RO product water at 50-100 ppm. If so, that will eat through your resin fairly quickly, even without having a CO2 issue. If a high RO TDS is the actual problem, the solution would be different - installing a self-regenerating salt-based water softener for your home, and running your RODI system from the softened water through a booster pump. Because RO membranes are extremely good at rejecting sodium, which is what a water softener replaces the dissolved iron and manganese in typical well water with, the added pressure from a booster pump and the water-softened inlet water will considerably increase your system's efficiency, both in overall flow rate and cost.

 

[S.Pepper]

You're familiar with the area. That's awesome! I am in Lake Toxaway. Just bought the house for my family in March. It's our first home. Are you out this way?

Not any longer, but I know the area well. I went to Western Carolina University and I have family in the area. Chances are, if you are in a house that was built before 2001 that has custom wood floors... I had something to do with it. Beautiful area and awesome golf courses. I know, because I've played them all. I hope to be in the area during Thanksgiving to visit family... and to visit one of my favorite cities in the world, Asheville.

 

[PhreeByrd]

This is all interesting, but I'm a little skeptical.
A lot of people report water pressures of 75+ psi, which is IME extremely unusual. Typical is 45-55 psi. And as Russ mentioned earlier, plumbing codes limit incoming water pressure to 80 psi maximum. That pressure is measured at your service shutoff valve or at your water meter. If it's higher than that, a pressure reducing valve is required by plumbing codes to bring the pressure down below 80 psi.

I'm curious how you folks are measuring these high numbers -- especially those reporting pressures of 100-120 psi, and those saying they have a certain pressure at (for example) the kitchen faucet.

And FWIW, city water pressure is almost always 100% dependent upon the height of the water tower serving your area. More specifically, it's dependent solely upon the difference between the height of the surface of the water in the water tower and your service entrance. Well water, as Russ already pointed out, relies on a pressure tank to regulate the incoming pressures.

 

[Hermie]

40 psi here, house uses 3/4" PVC from the street to the house, my pressure might be better if I used 1" pvc but im not digging up the yard

its about 50+ feet of pipe

 

[PhreeByrd]

40 psi here, house uses 3/4" PVC from the street to the house, my pressure might be better if I used 1" pvc but im not digging up the yard

its about 50+ feet of pipe

The pipe size won't affect the pressure as much as it will the water velocity (which, if too high, does slightly reduce the pressure, but typically only very slightly). The bigger concern is the high water velocity eroding the piping. But unless you're using an awful lot of water at the same time (big house, a lot of bathrooms, etc.), a 3/4" service line is pretty typical for a residence.

 

[Ferrell]

I get 50-55 psi

 

[Dburr1014]

50~60 psi from my well pump. Kicks on at 50; off at 60.
Just have to make sure your expansion tank bladder can handle it.

 

[Tuan’s Reef]

I get 65 psi ...5 year old house. Get a booster of yours is lower than 50

 

[don_chuwish]

75psi - I asked the plumbers for that when we built the house. Perfect for my 150gpd system.

 

[madweazl]

55-58psi and 100-102 TDS at the tap and 0-2 after the RO membrane. DI resin last a longggg time.

 

[King Turkey]

I get 60 psi if I flush my toilet it gets to 62 psi.. just kidding. But I do get 60. What's wrong with a booster pump just makes things work properly.

 

[AquariumDani]

How do you increase the water pressure?