Who's got the Hydros X3?

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n2585722

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Thank you so very much for sharing all of your experience with us. It’s really helpful to hear these first hand anecdotes. I live in an area with a lot of winter time power outages, my ranch is the end of the grid for our road, so preparing for outages is a big deal. We often lose internet for up to a month, and last year due to forest fire we lost internet for 3 months, and power for a month. We’re on the list for a skynet/starlink whatever satellite connection but I’m not holding my breath over it. We have generator backups for everything, but that doesn’t do any good for the internet/phone outages. Don’t get me wrong, I’m glad they finally upgraded us from dial up to dsl, but our connection is still often <1.5 Mbps and our upload is usually only .26-.63 Mbps. I’m okay with not being able to change settings while the internet itself is down, I just need the settings I put on there to be still usable.
How is your T-Mobile signal. They now offer home internet via cell service.
 
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jtichenor

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I just tested the wifi power strip and can confirm, once power returns to the strip all outlets will turn on and then back off .5 sec later and remain off until they get instructed to turn on by the controller (which requires a local wifi connection). Is it possible to default the strip outlets to default to ON until the controller connects?
What about the single wifi outlet CoralVue offers? Will that default to ON?
 

n2585722

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I just tested the wifi power strip and can confirm, once power returns to the strip all outlets will turn on and then back off .5 sec later and remain off until they get instructed to turn on by the controller (which requires a local wifi connection). Is it possible to default the strip outlets to default to ON until the controller connects?
What about the single wifi outlet CoralVue offers? Will that default to ON?
Not that I am aware of. They do plan on releasing a couple of output only units that will have AC outlets that will connect via buss cable. I am not sure how long it will be before these are released. I have not had an issue with the wifi connecting on mine with the battery backup on the router and modem. It just takes a few seconds. I also know my tank will be ok for at least 4 hours with everything powered off other than the MP10's. I learned that the hard way.
 
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Shooter6

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If you want pH the X3 has one probe port and two sense ports. The X4 had two probe ports and 4 sense ports along with 2 drive ports and 4 0-10v inputs and 4 0-10v outputs. It would be between those two if you want pH and/ORP. There is an X2 it has two drive ports and two sense ports. The XS has 4 sense ports. You can mix and match them in collectives for larger systems to get what you want. I have a collective with 8 control units. There are two wave engines that can control some pumps directly. Those can also be added to the collective. They will also power your control units. A collective requires enough buss cables to connect all the members along with a terminator for small collectives. Larger ones will require two terminators. These can be separate or built into the power pack depending on which you will need. Before you go into the collective if you are new to the controller it is good idea to ask on their forum or even here what you will need to hook up the controllers you plan to use. hope this helps.
See this all lost me. I followed a link someone else posted for the x3 that showed a pH sensor, temp sensor,and 4 plug power bar. Does the PowerBar allow pumps to be plugged into it and cycled off and on on a set schedule throughout the day? This would basically cover my needs, with the leak sensor and possibly ato sensors to round out my needs. Ive got a 1200gal + build going now. First 700gal up and running. Looking to add the alkatronic, or possibly the neptune trident but if I go with the trident I'll be locked into getting apex which I don't have a clue on programming ect.

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n2585722

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See this all lost me. I followed a link someone else posted for the x3 that showed a pH sensor, temp sensor,and 4 plug power bar. Does the PowerBar allow pumps to be plugged into it and cycled off and on on a set schedule throughout the day? This would basically cover my needs, with the leak sensor and possibly ato sensors to round out my needs. Ive got a 1200gal + build going now. First 700gal up and running. Looking to add the alkatronic, or possibly the neptune trident but if I go with the trident I'll be locked into getting apex which I don't have a clue on programming ect.
The X3 only has 2 sense ports. So you can have temp and the ATO sensor but you will need another control unit before you can hookup a leak detector. They hook to a sense port. You may be better off getting a X4 starter pack and get the leak detector and ATO sensor separately. yes the wifi power strips can power on and off things on a schedule if you want. You can also use them for heating, cooling and several other uses. The X4 also has 2 drive ports which you will need one if you want to use the Hydros ATO kit. You can still do ATO with the hydros without using their kit and even use a wifi outlet. I feel it is safer using a drive port with mine. I use a dosing pump and the float switch that was already installed in my tank for the ATO, but it is much easier to get kit if yu don't already have the sensor installed. Is this the one you had the link to or the monitor kit.

 

Shooter6

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The X3 only has 2 sense ports. So you can have temp and the ATO sensor but you will need another control unit before you can hookup a leak detector. They hook to a sense port. You may be better off getting a X4 starter pack and get the leak detector and ATO sensor separately. yes the wifi power strips can power on and off things on a schedule if you want. You can also use them for heating, cooling and several other uses. The X4 also has 2 drive ports which you will need one if you want to use the Hydros ATO kit. You can still do ATO with the hydros without using their kit and even use a wifi outlet. I feel it is safer using a drive port with mine. I use a dosing pump and the float switch that was already installed in my tank for the ATO, but it is much easier to get kit if yu don't already have the sensor installed. Is this the one you had the link to or the monitor kit.

Yes this is the link. It says 4 outlet bar, temp and ph probes with it. , currently I run a float valve gravity fed ato with 25gal reservoir. The powered ato is an unnecessary option but one that I could use in a secondary, backup role. .
As for heat and cooling I use a minisplit ac/heater to temp control my fishroom.
 

n2585722

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Yes this is the link. It says 4 outlet bar, temp and ph probes with it. , currently I run a float valve gravity fed ato with 25gal reservoir. The powered ato is an unnecessary option but one that I could use in a secondary, backup role. .
As for heat and cooling I use a minisplit ac/heater to temp control my fishroom.
if you need more inputs, outputs or specific type of either you can alway get the controller with what you need in controller only type and get a command buss cable and terminator. Then hook that controller up the the one you have with the buss cable and add the terminator. Then you add the current controller and then the new one to a collective you create. The first one added will keep it's settings any new controller after that will enter the collective as a blank controller. Once added all inputs and outputs are treated as if they are on a single controller. If you to separate some inputs and outputs out create separate pages select which items show up on each page. This makes it easier when you are checking on a specific thing. As a example below is my page for my RODI. This contains the controller info, inputs and output that are needen for the monitoring and control of the RODI. It also has the two storage tanks that are refilled by the RODI unit. Also you can see at top the 8 pages i have created. I will add more once I setup my other tank. At the moment I have 8 control units in the collective. I have 30 inputs and 70 outputs setup. Not all output actually control an actual port. Some are used for logic purposes only. It also show the only wifi device used for any purpose on this page at the bottom. I have 4 wifi power strips and a wifi feeder. So I use 5 of the 8 wifi devices allowed per collective or controller. I also use 6 out of the 6 drive ports I have. They are 3 used on this page for the RODI solenoids. The others are used fir ATO, AWC and AFR dosing. I am not sure of anthing specific you might want to see.

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rockdiver

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I just tested the wifi power strip and can confirm, once power returns to the strip all outlets will turn on and then back off .5 sec later and remain off until they get instructed to turn on by the controller (which requires a local wifi connection). Is it possible to default the strip outlets to default to ON until the controller connects?
What about the single wifi outlet CoralVue offers? Will that default to ON?
I lose my wifi it seems alot at night.
Idk if this is what you are asking, but I have watched it even as early as last night.
Wifi went out for an hour.
Tank ran as directed when the wifi came back on everything was back to the settings.
Nothing shut off and went back on.
I am not very tech savvy and just set this up.
I have the control 2. With 4 wifi strips.
You do get notified that it is off line to long and you get notified when it's back online.
This usually happens when I am sleeping but last night happened when I was up and I stayed up till it went back on.
Nothing cycled off then back on.
It all just kept running as usual.
If something would happen during a wifi outage you would NOT get notified.
I have my heaters on the wifi strip and it stays right on par it did turn them on I seen this last night so it does what you told it to do just you cannot see it till the wifi comes back on and you get notified.
Idk if this helps or not.
 
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n2585722

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I lose my wifi it seems alot at night.
Idk if this is what you are asking, but I have watched it even as early as last night.
Wifi went out for an hour.
Tank ran as directed when the wifi came back on everything was back to the settings.
Nothing shut off and went back on.
I am not very tech savvy and just set this up.
I have the control 2. With 4 wifi strips.
You do get notified that it is off line to long and you get notified when it's back online.
This usually happens when I am sleeping but last night happened when I was up and I stayed up till it went back on.
Nothing cycled off then back on.
It all just kept running as usual.
If something would happen during a wifi outage you would NOT get notified.
I have my heaters on the wifi strip and it stays right on par it did turn them on I seen this last night so it does what you told it to do just you cannot see it till the wifi comes back on and you get notified.
Idk if this helps or not.
Are you sure you are loosing wifi or is it the internet. Wifi and internet are two different things. If you loose wifi the controller would not be able to communicate with the wifi power strips. In that case they remain in what ever state they were in until communication is restored or the power is removed. If you loose power the strip will be in the off state until commutation is restored.
 

rockdiver

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Are you sure you are loosing wifi or is it the internet. Wifi and internet are two different things. If you loose wifi the controller would not be able to communicate with the wifi power strips. In that case they remain in what ever state they were in until communication is restored or the power is removed. If you loose power the strip will be in the off state until commutation is restored.
Well I guessing wifi.
Once it's out I cannot communicate with my wifi feeder or my wifi inkbird.
It's comcast when it's out my TV still works but I can't do anything thru wifi with our phones.
Good question how can I tell what is out just assumed it was wifi since my phone says won't connect to my network for my wifi.
 
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n2585722

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If you are home when it happens you can connect via bluetooth on the app. If you have a collective you have to choose the wifi master when connecting. If everything looks ok other than not connecting via internet then it is the internet. Most things nowadays are cloud connected and will not work without the internet connection also. I have my own router for wifi and it has an app you can use to check it directly. My guess is you are loosing internet. I have internet and phone and they are on the providers modem and I can see the lights for internet and phone go off when I loose them. You might check and see if you box has lights for internet and phone on it.
 
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CuseReefer

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Hi, i have a question about the X3 please: Do you use an inkbird if you have X3, or does X3 do what an inkbird does and no need for inkbird?
Thank you.
I would still recommend having the ink bird for redundancy. What I suggest to many is to plug the inkbird into the hydros wifi strip then use hydros as a safety shutoff if temp goes over a higher limit, such as 80. Then have the ink bird set to 77. This way the wifi strip is always left on. Once wired outlet options come out for Hydros then allowing hydros to directly control a heater is way less risky.
 

n2585722

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I use the Hydros to control my heaters but the heaters have a thermostat that is set around 3 degrees higher than the Hydros. Always have a backup for a heater of some kind regardless of how they are connected. Also don't use to high of a wattage heater and split the wattage up between at least two heaters with both on separate control outputs.
 

jrill

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Hi, i have a question about the X3 please: Do you use an inkbird if you have X3, or does X3 do what an inkbird does and no need for inkbird?
Thank you.
I you use a temp probe Hydros can control a heater through its wifi outlet. I still use the inkbird with the Hydros to get an extra level of protection against heater control issues.
 

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