@brandon429 Great thread, you inspired me to start my own reef bowl. I'm using the 2 gallon anchor Hocking jar and the reefsmart picopro light. I just set mine up o Friday. I hope my hate looks as good as you Pico tanks!
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Nevil nice to meet you please post pics! If I could offer what I think is the single most helpful way to start: by using real live rock already established with coralline from a currently running reef tank. Lfs often have primo rocks for sale with animals attached, those are better than dry rocks because they have all feed supports in place vs having to wait two years for dry rock to catch up
Although dry rock works it'll never grow corals as fast as starting with coralline live rock. 98% of the look is by selecting rock that is already old it makes things easier
summaries of the threads
-be creative with evap control/the lid. use an inner diameter pressing lid, not a top rester. the strongest designs don't use ato, they beat any other tank in salinity stability
5 day topoffs, no ato, every other sps reef eats gallons a day of freshwater. ours is an ounce a week depending, its literally more stable in a bowl save for elbow incidents to the container.
-get a good qual but affordable sps par light, like the one Maritza the vase reef uses
Expensive lights not required
-the systems want heavy feeding before a large flushing water change, some stress in that way, if at least occasionally and any can handle weekly. they aren't hands off, ultra calm setups, they're toughened compared to how we'd think a tiny pico would require
-use vol% water change in place of dosing and tedious testing.. accomplishes flushing, oxygenation, nutrient upwelling, current, slime removal, redox balancing including removal of acid-generating compounds pre-microbial breakdown, all things sps like. you can pack in hq feeding to every polyp before these storm changes
-no matter what you read about algae in the reef tank ignore it and do this:
When you see it, take the tank apart and kill it in overly done ways. Never hesitate nor take an impartial action. Change nothing about your feed, nutrients, lighting, just kill it and it will eventually stop if you aren't importing it on frags still. We burn the algae with fire from wind proof lighters, or 35% peroxide, nothing is allowed to take over. How many of these pico reefs we are seeing have a single strand of invaded algae?
-we don't care what the brand name of the salt is, you're free. Sandbed brand, grain size, doesn't matter. they all work in this type of high turnover setup... imagine all the threads on dosing, salt brand and type, testing kit brand and type, we're free of them all and that sps is as orange as one could want, plating extra mass beside itself for fragging.
an airstone is good enough to grow any sps you want, they already do supporting work for this in Cruz's microbubble threads.
we have first time reefers in the pico club, documented
its not exclusive to cost and practice, theres a repeating formula that works, always.
whether his fish is controversial or not doesn't apply, im talking about the ecosystem as a whole. I know some ten gallon setups that cardinal wouldn't be happier in...I personally recommend pico works wo the fish but reefers will always add their own touches.
when this all started, keeping the sps in the bowl was way more offensive... guaranteed via allelopathy not to work. currently a redacted claim