Why the Kessil H380 was my best purchase ever

[oreo54]

Yea, seemed like it.
I don't see "whites". RGB in there really.
The YO and R seem a bit blended but it's there.
The couple other cheapo ones of seen graphs of and the ones in Europe for industrial wharhouse horticulture keep a bit more into yellow , but that could be manufacture.

Honestly , I can't use em. Makes my OCD explode.
Interesting though.

"Yellow" diodes are whites..
Red self explanitory..
Clear are blue/violet/UV
Guessing about the UV.. one chart I saw had a small bump at about 390..
Well...

Kessil added the H380 to their lineup, now with UV light! More companies are catching on that UV does make a difference, though I'm really suspicious about many of the companies that claim to have it in their spectrum. I had the opportunity to test Kessil's H380 and it really does have UV in the spectrum! Too bad it doesn't have IR…

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

"Yellow" diodes are whites..
Red self explanitory..
Clear are blue/violet/UV
Guessing about the UV.. one chart I saw had a small bump at about 390..

Got it.

Technically white needs all of the spectrum. Different amounts /Kelvin etc but. Yea.

I'm still looking at UV for plants and coral PUR, but I had to shelve that for a bit.

 

[Larry L]

my chaeto has seen better days. Just tested water today and I have 16ppm nitrates and .68ppm phosphates. It should be growing like crazy but it's been shrinking and I just shook it up and it halfway fell apart.

Just FYI in case the new light doesn't help: You have plenty of nitrates and phosphates to grow the chaeto, but besides the lighting something else could still be a limiting factor, like lack of iron. If things don't perk up with the new light, maybe try dosing a little iron and see what happens.

 

[SashimiTurtle]

Just FYI in case the new light doesn't help: You have plenty of nitrates and phosphates to grow the chaeto, but besides the lighting something else could still be a limiting factor, like lack of iron. If things don't perk up with the new light, maybe try dosing a little iron and see what happens.

Thank you for the tip. The tank was set up in October and is doing very well since completing it's initial cycle. I'm using red sea blue bucket salt and currently doing 5g a week water changes to keep up with all elements. My iron should be good, but I also just took a Triton sample that I'll be mailing tomorrow. I'll be switching to dosing for macro and micro elements and going away from water changes once the chaeto can handle nutrient export.

 

[robert teseo]

i got a better price by buying from a garden supply house, but it is the best $$$ I spent

 

[Crabs McJones]

Just FYI in case the new light doesn't help: You have plenty of nitrates and phosphates to grow the chaeto, but besides the lighting something else could still be a limiting factor, like lack of iron. If things don't perk up with the new light, maybe try dosing a little iron and see what happens.

I started doing this as well so I think a combination of the iron dosing plus the h380 helps out a lot

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I've never had to dose iron. I've pretty much always had a lot of macro growth.

 

[Crabs McJones]

I've never had to dose iron. I've pretty much always had a lot of macro growth.

Well I started doing it when my chaeto kept dying on me now that I have the h380 I'm almost wondering if I should stop dosing it or if because I'm having positive results keep doing it, what do you think?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Well I started doing it when my chaeto kept dying on me now that I have the h380 I'm almost wondering if I should stop dosing it or if because I'm having positive results keep doing it, what do you think?

Sounds like yet another fun experiment.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Sounds like yet another fun experiment.

I'll dose for a month and then I'll stop dosing it for a month and see what the difference is

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'll dose for a month and then I'll stop dosing it for a month and see what the difference is

Fun!
Def let us know how it goes!'

 

[1stNoel]

I upgraded to AP700s and kept one A360WE for the 'fuge. Obviously not the same as the H380, but hopefully it serves its purpose.

Would anyone recommend an H80 over it?

 

[Crabs McJones]

I upgraded to AP700s and kept one A360WE for the 'fuge. Obviously not the same as the H380, but hopefully it serves its purpose.

Would anyone recommend an H80 over it?

See my very first post in this thread about the h80 lol

 

[Radman73]

I have an H380 under the tree right now and two AP700's over the tank so this is good news to me! Tank has only been up for a few months though so no nutrient issues as yet. That's why the light could wait until Christmas lol!

 

[Kurt Grant]

I started out with the Amazon lights they did a great job,after watching brs i needed to get a bigger fuge seeing how the reactor wasnt enough so i went out and bought a h380 well that was the best money iv spent.. now i had to change my sump before after and h380 time

 

[SashimiTurtle]

I upgraded to AP700s and kept one A360WE for the 'fuge. Obviously not the same as the H380, but hopefully it serves its purpose.

Would anyone recommend an H80 over it?

I would set the A360 to 100% color and see how it does. Don't waste your money on the H80.

 

[Crabs McJones]

I would set the A360 to 100% color and see how it does. Don't waste your money on the H80.

100% color should throw some reds and whites in there. I wonder if there is any spectral graph for the A360 at 100% color. The closest I could come is with my seneye under the ap700

 

[1stNoel]

See my very first post in this thread about the h80 lol

Reading is overrated.

 

[1stNoel]

100% color should throw some reds and whites in there. I wonder if there is any spectral graph for the A360 at 100% color. The closest I could come is with my seneye under the ap700

Not to change topics, but since you just mentioned Seneye and AP700.

I just received my Black Friday sale Seneye. Kessil always states that they go by PUR, not PAR (i.e. 300 PAR with our light is not the same as 300 PAR with a different light).
What PAR should I shoot for with the Ap700 (using the Seneye) to keep SPS, LPS & low light corals happy?

 

[Crabs McJones]

Not to change topics, but since you just mentioned Seneye and AP700.

I just received my Black Friday sale Seneye. Kessil always states that they go by PUR, not PAR (i.e. 300 PAR with our light is not the same as 300 PAR with a different light).
What PAR should I shoot for with the Ap700 (using the Seneye) to keep SPS, LPS & low light corals happy?

I shoot for 250-300 in the top half of my tank where all the sps are, and 200 and lower at the bottom