Will additional DI stages eliminate CO2/Phosphate from my well water?

Phyber

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I'm running a BRS 4 stage RODI with booster pump at ~80psi. Filters were replaced Jan 2020 and clean water out of my RO is at 4ppm and out of the DI resin is 3ppm. I gave up long ago trying to keep fresh DI and 0ppm water since I suppose CO2 in my well water is eating it up before I can get 20g of water made.

I've recently been battling phosphate/algae issues in my tank. I'm working on a better maintenance routine, as well as now running GFO.

If I add on a 2 stage DI kit, so that it's Anion -> Cation -> Mixed Bed, will this be a better solution for me?
 

mrlavalamp

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Flushing the RO membrane when you start it up?

You should run the resins Cation > Anion > Mixed.

The only exception is if you have dirt cheap mixed bed resin, in which case I would put it first knowing that it will be exhausted quickly. I tried using some really really cheap mixed bed resin I bought on ebay (50lbs was $15) and I didn't get through 50 gallons before that chamber was used up same tds as the input. At the same time, the BRS pro series resins get through a few hundred gallons before they are used up in my system, so this is one place you get what you pay for.
 
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Phyber

Phyber

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Flushing the RO membrane when you start it up?

You should run the resins Cation > Anion > Mixed.

The only exception is if you have dirt cheap mixed bed resin, in which case I would put it first knowing that it will be exhausted quickly. I tried using some really really cheap mixed bed resin I bought on ebay (50lbs was $15) and I didn't get through 50 gallons before that chamber was used up same tds as the input. At the same time, the BRS pro series resins get through a few hundred gallons before they are used up in my system, so this is one place you get what you pay for.
I do have a flush setup and use that when I start and end a RODI run. Same results though on the output water. I only use BRS DI but I don't remember getting any of the Pro line since I knew already that my water would eat it up.
 

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I'm running a BRS 4 stage RODI with booster pump at ~80psi. Filters were replaced Jan 2020 and clean water out of my RO is at 4ppm and out of the DI resin is 3ppm. I gave up long ago trying to keep fresh DI and 0ppm water since I suppose CO2 in my well water is eating it up before I can get 20g of water made.

I've recently been battling phosphate/algae issues in my tank. I'm working on a better maintenance routine, as well as now running GFO.

If I add on a 2 stage DI kit, so that it's Anion -> Cation -> Mixed Bed, will this be a better solution for me?
Last filter change was Jan 2020? I make a lot of water, but rarely got more than 2-3 months from my DI resins when I ran the four stage. I now run 7 stage and IIRC have roughly doubled the volume between changes. Well water; but I don't know the pH.
 
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Phyber

Phyber

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Last filter change was Jan 2020? I make a lot of water, but rarely got more than 2-3 months from my DI resins when I ran the four stage. I now run 7 stage and IIRC have roughly doubled the volume between changes. Well water; but I don't know the pH.
yes, I changed all stages of filters, and the DI has been exhausted since then. I make maybe 50 gallons a month, and the DI was done after the first 20-30.
 

KStatefan

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Available space. I don't have enough to keep a storage container of degassing water to equal to the RODI I usually keep on hand.

You do not need very much space. My degassing chamber is a piece of 4" PVC with a 1.5 X4 tee at the top. I would switch to a cation- anion - mixed bed setup.
 

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Available space. I don't have enough to keep a storage container of degassing water to equal to the RODI I usually keep on hand.
You could build a simple DIY in-line CO2 degasser. Which is what I did because I was swapping DI resin every 40 gallons, now I get much longer life out of it.
 
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You could build a simple DIY in-line CO2 degasser. Which is what I did because I was swapping DI resin every 40 gallons, now I get much longer life out of it.

Do you have any build info or photos? How do you have it plumbed in relation to where a booster pump goes? I would think a chamber wouldn't tolerate high pressures...But a 4" vertical pipe could fit in my laundry room behind the washer...
 

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KStatefan

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Would you have build info or photos for reference?

There are pictures in my build thread. I had trouble using gravity feed and switched to a pump but I think the proble was with a defective resin cartridge. I had problems with the pump also until I changed out the resin.
 
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There are pictures in my build thread. I had trouble using gravity feed and switched to a pump but I think the proble was with a defective resin cartridge. I had problems with the pump also until I changed out the resin.

Since I'm using a booster pump, and an autoshutoff valve on my topoff storage tank that the RODI is plumbed to, won't I have issues with an open design like this chamber? I have everything currently mounted to the utility room wall, won't I have to gravity feed everything?
 

KStatefan

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Since I'm using a booster pump, and an autoshutoff valve on my topoff storage tank that the RODI is plumbed to, won't I have issues with an open design like this chamber? I have everything currently mounted to the utility room wall, won't I have to gravity feed everything?

I do not know. I do not have my RODI system tied to my top off container. How much water are you making at a time?
 
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Phyber

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I do not know. I do not have my RODI system tied to my top off container. How much water are you making at a time?
If I do a water change, I end up filling a 20g Brute. I have a 35g norwesco in the crawlspace that holds my ATO water...I run that about an hour or so every week until the autoshut off kicks on.
 

KStatefan

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If I do a water change, I end up filling a 20g Brute. I have a 35g norwesco in the crawlspace that holds my ATO water...I run that about an hour or so every week until the autoshut off kicks on.

OK. I thought maybe you were short cycling the RODI system.
 
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