Will velvet survive on rock out of and aquarium

[HankstankXXL750]

I have two bouts of velvet. I went dormant 6 weeks according to everything I read. Right after putting new fish in I found a different site that said should be dormant like 11 weeks. The fish I put in came down with velvet almost immediately. I took all the fish out of the tank early to mid April. I tore this tank down, and put all the live rock in a tote in my garage. I’m setting up a Red Sea XXXL900 and would like to use the rock in it. Has been in a fishless tank then drying since April.
Thanks.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have two bouts of velvet. I went dormant 6 weeks according to everything I read. Right after putting new fish in I found a different site that said should be dormant like 11 weeks. The fish I put in came down with velvet almost immediately. I took all the fish out of the tank early to mid April. I tore this tank down, and put all the live rock in a tote in my garage. I’m setting up a Red Sea XXXL900 and would like to use the rock in it. Has been in a fishless tank then drying since April.
Thanks.

What you did was adequate for 6 weeks as velvet's life cycle iss typically 11-14 days. Velvet in essence is a form of dino and does not live long without a host opposed to ich and other parasites.
You can add acriflavine ( ruby rally pro) which is reef safe to system to assure velvet is fully addressed

 

[Tamberav]

Velvet won't survive drying

 

[Tired]

I don't know of any fish pathogens that will survive a few months being completely dry.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Velvet won't survive drying

Yes, but just don’t know if totally dry due to the pour out nature. I think it should be fine. Just don’t want some rock to kill $$ in fish.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

I don't know of any fish pathogens that will survive a few months being completely dry.

Yes, but just don’t know if totally dry due to the pour out nature. I think it should be fine. Just don’t want some rock to kill $$ in fish.

 

[Tamberav]

Yes, but just don’t know if totally dry due to the pour out nature. I think it should be fine. Just don’t want some rock to kill $$ in fish.

You can just bleach it to be safe

It is long passed fallow period but I know temperatures can effect things.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I have two bouts of velvet. I went dormant 6 weeks according to everything I read. Right after putting new fish in I found a different site that said should be dormant like 11 weeks. The fish I put in came down with velvet almost immediately. I took all the fish out of the tank early to mid April. I tore this tank down, and put all the live rock in a tote in my garage. I’m setting up a Red Sea XXXL900 and would like to use the rock in it. Has been in a fishless tank then drying since April.
Thanks.

Biosecurity can be tough. Nobody really knows what the fallow period for velvet is. Based on its life cycle, with no resting phase, I’ve heard as short as 28 days.
Are you sure you are diagnosing velvet correctly? It is actually a fairly rare disease. Could the new fish have brought it in with them?

Jay

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Biosecurity can be tough. Nobody really knows what the fallow period for velvet is. Based on its life cycle, with no resting phase, I’ve heard as short as 28 days.
Are you sure you are diagnosing velvet correctly? It is actually a fairly rare disease. Could the new fish have brought it in with them?

Jay

I’m fairly sure. It was a lot smaller than ich and covered the whole fish like a powdered donut. Also killed super fast. The first fish that got it happened when I bought too many fish on a trip to the lfs. Closest good ones are 5-6 hour round trip. So I might go a little overboard. Couldn’t QT everyone so I put a pair of triggers in my 90 with some established fish. Broke out within a few days and we lost them all. Put some others of them in my multi tank QT system, I was prepping fish in for my S1000 reef setup. We lost every fish in that system also. In the matter of just a few days. One of those fish came from the same lfs that the triggers came from. Same appearance fine powdery coating. So from what the other lfs said and pics I sent to others and pics I looked up online I think it was velvet.
The restock came around 6-7 weeks and I panicked and did a fresh water dip followed by a paraguard dip. Lost the Australian Harlequin Tusk fish that night (probably stressed him to death). I started humblefish TTM for velvet after the dips and saved the lion and a porcupine puffer, lost a fimbriata eel during one of the tank transfers as the mesh lid wasn’t tight enough on that particular tank and he got out. The lion and puffer are fish I’m planning to add to the 900 as soon as it is cycled.
Thanks.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Biosecurity can be tough. Nobody really knows what the fallow period for velvet is. Based on its life cycle, with no resting phase, I’ve heard as short as 28 days.
Are you sure you are diagnosing velvet correctly? It is actually a fairly rare disease. Could the new fish have brought it in with them?

Jay

Also all of the fish that went into the tank that suffered the second outbreak had been observationally quarantined for 4-6 weeks. Now I know from your QT post that observation only might not be sufficient, from our recent conversations but it was my understanding that parasites such as ich and velvet would show themselves if present within that 4-6 window.
I could be wrong about that, but it is what I had been led to believe.
I watched for stringy poop to diagnose worms or internal parasites and watched swimming behavior, eating, and visible outbreaks for flukes, ich and velvet.
Setting up for copper QT from here out.
Wondering about the majestic angel we have discussed previously. I was in the middle of humble fishes ich TTM when I posted and you diagnosed the growth issue over ich. The fish still has the same three spots that you thought were not that disease. They have never dropped off or changed size. Is it possible they are still that virus vs ich? Picture attached.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Also all of the fish that went into the tank that suffered the second outbreak had been observationally quarantined for 4-6 weeks. Now I know from your QT post that observation only might not be sufficient, from our recent conversations but it was my understanding that parasites such as ich and velvet would show themselves if present within that 4-6 window.
I could be wrong about that, but it is what I had been led to believe.
I watched for stringy poop to diagnose worms or internal parasites and watched swimming behavior, eating, and visible outbreaks for flukes, ich and velvet.
Setting up for copper QT from here out.
Wondering about the majestic angel we have discussed previously. I was in the middle of humble fishes ich TTM when I posted and you diagnosed the growth issue over ich. The fish still has the same three spots that you thought were not that disease. They have never dropped off or changed size. Is it possible they are still that virus vs ich? Picture attached.

Sorry if I wasn't clear - observational quarantine is far less effective than a preventative clearing treatment during quarantine. Basically, all it does is allow some disease episodes to get started outside of your DT. It doesn't do anything to limit those diseases. It is virtually useless against flukes, as symptoms of fluke infection can take longer than that to even show up.

The spots on the majestic look and act like a mild case of Lymphocystis. There isn't any way they could be ich. Since Lymphocystis goes away on its own and isn't treatable, nothing should be tried for that.

Jay

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Sorry if I wasn't clear - observational quarantine is far less effective than a preventative clearing treatment during quarantine. Basically, all it does is allow some disease episodes to get started outside of your DT. It doesn't do anything to limit those diseases. It is virtually useless against flukes, as symptoms of fluke infection can take longer than that to even show up.

The spots on the majestic look and act like a mild case of Lymphocystis. There isn't any way they could be ich. Since Lymphocystis goes away on its own and isn't treatable, nothing should be tried for that.

Jay

Thanks