Woodworkers - Critique my stand. And suggest away.

[xaflatoonx]

Right off the bat -

the stand is HEAVILY inspired by Brad's last tank stand that he built. (ID - Urbanek)
For anyone who hasnt seen his 365 images thread or his build thread - i strongly suggest you do. His tanks have been amazing and his woodworking skills are just epic.
I thank him for inspiring me to build my own stand - and I hope we hear from him soon because he hasnt updated his trio reef thread for a while now.

Just a quick run down.

The tank will be a 72 x 36 x 24.
The idea is to have no center brace for easy access to the sump and maintenance.

the RED planks are 2x4's -
the GREEN planks are 2x8's
the above two basically hold the weight of the tank.

the Brown is a 3/4th inch ply wood.
the BLUE are 2x4's that hold the FRAME of the stand OUTSIDE of the tank parameter.
the LIGHT blue are 2x4's that go on the INSIDE of the corner frames for support or screwing into.

For all those who are familiar with building stands - probably should be able to follow.
But happy to answer any follow up questions.

What i want to know.

Do i need to make any changes to this plan for a sound stand support set up?
Any suggestions from any one for cable management or plumbing that i should think about before starting this build?

Once the frank/structure is built - yall can be sure i will be back for guidance on the SKINNING part.

Front top View

Front bottom view

Front bottom right view

Back bottom left view

 

[davocean]

I understand you are oversizing, and therefore making an inside platform that supports tank bottom.
If it were my build I would simplify it some by running the green boards all the way front to back, less light blues needed that way.
I'd also just run solid 2x front to back on that center bottom same way/reason, but other than that it looks fine for support, just a lot of lumber.

 

[xaflatoonx]

Thanks davocean

Can you please explain a little.
Green boards front to back? Replace which ones?

Second point. To put a 2x4 in the back top to bottom?

 

[Del’s Reef]

Two things come to mind.

1) be careful of treated wood in any way. I know you didn’t mention using it, but any splash that drips back can be a carrier of some pretty nasty stuff. It’s actually better to use a 2 part epoxy to coat any wood surface that could come into contact with aquarium water and then be reintroduced than using a treated wood.
2) no nails. I learned this from an old carpenter. Nails are easy. Nails are quick. Nails are cheap. And nails fail. Use proper screws. They have a better command (grip) and heaven forbid you have to take something apart, they aid in that too.

And btw, the design.... I likey.

 

[davocean]

Well, I'm a carpenter, so of course my mind spins how I would do it, and I try to simplify, though there are many ways it can be done.

Last pic, green and blue boards, could probably eliminate making the boxy part w/ blue criples, and just run joists front to back.

And the bottom toe kick section could be same, just 2x run front to back, like how side boxes are.

I always do a solid ply sheet on top too, screwed to framing members below, stitches it all together, helps ride over any deviations, especially good to do on flat bottom/trimless tanks

It's a good size tank though, no matter what that frame is going to be very heavy, so do what feels best, your drawing supports fine, I'm just used to eliminating cuts and lumber where possible.

 

[samnaz]

Urbaneks, ftw! love the design.

beyond that, I have nothing to add, I'm no woodworker.

 

[davocean]

^^ Agree, Urbaneks work is beatiful.

I also agree screws over nails, gold colored/zinc coated, but lots of glue, tightbond III being my choice, so no chance of pulling anything apart later, so don't make mistakes!
Glue is actually stronger than nails when properly joined.

 

[xaflatoonx]

Two things come to mind.

1) be careful of treated wood in any way. I know you didn’t mention using it, but any splash that drips back can be a carrier of some pretty nasty stuff. It’s actually better to use a 2 part epoxy to coat any wood surface that could come into contact with aquarium water and then be reintroduced than using a treated wood.
2) no nails. I learned this from an old carpenter. Nails are easy. Nails are quick. Nails are cheap. And nails fail. Use proper screws. They have a better command (grip) and heaven forbid you have to take something apart, they aid in that too.

And btw, the design.... I likey.

Thanks so much for the tip.
I did plan to use treated wood for the construction of the stand.
However will absolutely epoxy or put a urethane coat on the top of the stand for potential spills and preventive care.

and i also agree - no nails. for sure. Glue and screws.

thanks a bunch for your tips.

 

[xaflatoonx]

Well, I'm a carpenter, so of course my mind spins how I would do it, and I try to simplify, though there are many ways it can be done.

Last pic, green and blue boards, could probably eliminate making the boxy part w/ blue criples, and just run joists front to back.

And the bottom toe kick section could be same, just 2x run front to back, like how side boxes are.

I always do a solid ply sheet on top too, screwed to framing members below, stitches it all together, helps ride over any deviations, especially good to do on flat bottom/trimless tanks

It's a good size tank though, no matter what that frame is going to be very heavy, so do what feels best, your drawing supports fine, I'm just used to eliminating cuts and lumber where possible.

I definitely understand what you mean now.
I will change the design to put the back to front supports.

Regarding the ply top and bottom - that is exactly the plan for sure. I was thinking 3/4" ply - or should i go 1"?

 

[davocean]

3/4"

 

[xaflatoonx]

thanks again Davocean.