Would gill infection cause same symptoms as the parasite that caused it?

4FordFamily

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I don’t have anything to add at all, I am in the same boat as @HotRocks. It doesn’t sounds like copper poisoning symptoms either. I do agree the clown looks like early lympho.
 
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Kinghugo5

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If this were something viral, with high quality food, pristine water, and supplements added to food it could heal itself.

I'm torn on what to do. No flukes coming off in FW dip says viral.

Maybe just give them some time, see what happens and keep formalin close by.

I will do just that! I premade 10g tonight in anticipation of whatever is next so I’ll do another 30% water change tomorrow evening and continue on with selcon. I have rid ich handy if needed, I know it’s not the 37% but it must be better than nothing?
 
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Kinghugo5

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I don’t have anything to add at all, I am in the same boat as @HotRocks. It doesn’t sounds like copper poisoning symptoms either. I do agree the clown looks like early lympho.

I’ll keep feeding with selcon and if I see no improvement in a week or so, may just go get quick cure and do a legit formalin bath then transfer to DT at 7-8 weeks fallow. With the uncertainty, it’s seeming like my DT may be the most sterile thing I have at this point if it’s not viral?
 
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Kinghugo5

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I think I would have to order it. I haven’t seen it at any of the 3 LFS here.
 

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Unless I missed it, no one mentioned a UV sterilizer. I had around 100 tanks in the field when I had my maintenance business, and nearly all had a 25 watt or higher UV. This keeps the water clear, kills ich and flukes, and has no downside. I just KNOW someone will chime in and tell me UV's don't work. But I NEVER had ick or anything else when I used UV.
Also - flukes, maybe most of them, are microscopic. I have cut the gill filaments off many fish, and put them under a microscope. I used to watch the little buggers tearing away at the gills while on the slide - I believe they were gyrodactylus (sp). And I have seen flea sized and larger flukes rain down off butterfly fish while in their freshwater dips.
 

HotRocks

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Unless I missed it, no one mentioned a UV sterilizer. I had around 100 tanks in the field when I had my maintenance business, and nearly all had a 25 watt or higher UV. This keeps the water clear, kills ich and flukes, and has no downside. I just KNOW someone will chime in and tell me UV's don't work. But I NEVER had ick or anything else when I used UV.
Also - flukes, maybe most of them, are microscopic. I have cut the gill filaments off many fish, and put them under a microscope. I used to watch the little buggers tearing away at the gills while on the slide - I believe they were gyrodactylus (sp). And I have seen flea sized and larger flukes rain down off butterfly fish while in their freshwater dips.
UV is a great tool for management. You do have to be careful with them in regards to a medicated QT.

For instance they make copper much more potent than it would be otherwise, they also break down other meds.

If you are talking strictly using for a DT I am not against the use of one. I personally don't run one, but know several people that do.
 

WVfishguy

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I used a UV in the place of all medications. It goes without saying that you turn off the UV if you dump chemicals in your tank.
 
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Kinghugo5

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I did a 50% water change yesterday and added an air stone/carbon last night to remove prazi. The clown still had stuff on it, but it’s not as bad as the pics. The tang was acting very reclusive this morning, but no other fish have any visible symptoms.

Leaving lights off today because water looked a little cloudy yesterday which prompted the water change and carbon.

All fish still have good appetites and devour the selcon soaked food. Plan is to have no meds in there through the weekend and see what happens.
 
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Kinghugo5

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Unless I missed it, no one mentioned a UV sterilizer. I had around 100 tanks in the field when I had my maintenance business, and nearly all had a 25 watt or higher UV. This keeps the water clear, kills ich and flukes, and has no downside. I just KNOW someone will chime in and tell me UV's don't work. But I NEVER had ick or anything else when I used UV.
Also - flukes, maybe most of them, are microscopic. I have cut the gill filaments off many fish, and put them under a microscope. I used to watch the little buggers tearing away at the gills while on the slide - I believe they were gyrodactylus (sp). And I have seen flea sized and larger flukes rain down off butterfly fish while in their freshwater dips.

I’ve read so many different opinions on a UV and have considered it many times. I would pull the trigger in a heartbeat if when I introduce back to DT, something breaks out. Until then, the corals are super happy in there and so are the inverts so I don’t see a need for one if all goes well after QT.
 

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How long did you treat with furan-2 and kanaplex? I thought the initial post said a week, but I want to make sure I didn’t miss anything later on.
 
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Kinghugo5

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How long did you treat with furan-2 and kanaplex? I thought the initial post said a week, but I want to make sure I didn’t miss anything later on.

I did a week of Kanaplex and in that week, included 2 doses of Furan 2. It did seem to help the white go away gradually but I couldn’t tell if it was in relation to the antibiotics or the prazi prior? The clown does still have stuff on it today but not as bad as before. It has quite the appetite, too.

The tang is kind of IMO the indicator fish if anything like ich or velvet is still present but has been clear of any blemishes for almost a week.

They are all still flaring their gills sometimes and yawning. Just wonder if it’s ghost symptoms from a heavy infection?
 

ngoodermuth

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I think I would maybe run a full 10-day course of antibiotics. Antibiotics are very slow-acting in fish, it can sometimes take as many as 14 days to clear an infection. I'd also suggest sourcing acriflavine for a 90-minute bath. Ruby reef rally is popular, but API Fungus Cure also contains it and I've seen others use it successfully. I usually perform the bath in a 5-gallon bucket with a small heater and airstone for aeration.

Since you already have them, I would use kanaplex+metroplex+furan-2. Dosed every 48 hours after a substantial water change (at least 20-25%). Make sure the tank is heavily aerated, I actually run an airline right under my powerhead so it shoots bubbles all over the tank.
 
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